Replies

1. 
   mrbird90 | Apr 12, 2009 09:46pm | #1

   Birch is a good choice but if you have a good plywood source near you poplar may be a bit less expensive. As far as stain goes, I  found Zar stains to be better than Minwax for my applications. Hardware I purchase from an Amish supply place called Hreshbergers's Hardware Ltd. baltic, Ohio 1-800-734-8044 (no web site Amish) I have been buying cabinet hardware such as full extension slides for over 15 years and I cannot find a source with better prices. Have purchased over 100 slides with no problems in any application.

2. 
   saschafer | Apr 13, 2009 04:47am | #2

   Woodworker's Hardware has a good selection.

   -Steve

3. 
   MikeHennessy | Apr 13, 2009 02:33pm | #3

   Maple ply stains up to mimic cherry pretty nicely. Don't know how the price compares, tho'. A lot depends on local suppliers.

   My 2¢ is to avoid the glue-on edge banding. Especially in a high-use area like a closet. Face frames aren't that tough to do and will be a lot more rugged. On built-ins, I usually just build the face frames after the box is built by simply gluing/nailing solid strips on to the ply edges. (I know - very "Norm-esque". LOL.) No real need to pre-assemble the frame.

   Drawer  & shelf hardware is all over. Just Google it. Woodcraft, Lee Valley, Rockler are the mainstays. McFeeley is good for fasteners, but not cheap.

   Hanging rods -- I hate the new stuff that's grid-based. You can't slide the hangers. Who thought that was a good idea? I've used various rods that are formed from sheet metal -- OK, and better than the grids. For strength and durability tho', I keep coming back to good ol' black iron pipe. ;-)

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

4. 
   Frank Vucolo | Apr 13, 2009 04:47pm | #4

   Reconsider using cherry plywood. I think you will pay $25 or $30 more per board (rough estimate depending where you are and what kind of birch plywood you were looking at.) If you need 4 to 6 boards and add that extra cost into the entire job cost and weigh it out over the amount of work you are going to do and the life of the finished result, you might find that the whole job cost is only 10% or more expensive.

   Upside: No staining required. Birch can be blotchy and you're talking about staining a lot of surface area. With cherry ply, you can simply finish the completed project with the poly, shellac or oil/varnish blend of your choosing and be done - with beautiful results.

   For hardware, take a look at Rockler online.

   Just one man's opinion (I've been down this road)

   Frank

1. 
   nwilhelm | Apr 14, 2009 03:42am | #5

   Thanks to all who responded. Given the scrap piece of birch plywood I worked with the other day the results, while OK, were not stellar. Given the time required, +/- 6 hrs between coats, I'm thinking the cherry plywood might be a better choice regardless of cost!?!????

   I am however concerned about the face frames!!! From what I have read.....solid cherry seems to have a mind of its own when ripping/planning/etc. Any thoughts?? As reasonably priced pieces of solid Oak are available does anyone have a thought regarding stain?

   I am also considering Poplar, nice straight grain for the most part, but again am concerned regarding finish?? The more I consider, the closet could become a contemporary work of???????????

   THANKS AGAIN for the input??

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Apr 14, 2009 03:46am | #6

   Cherry is wonderful wood to work -- maybe my favorite. If that's now an option, it should be at the top of the list. Oak will never look like cherry -- the grain is too dissimilar. I wouldn't wanna try to make poplar look like anything other than poplar or painted wood. Though you can mimic just about anything with opaque finishes, it just won't look that great.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   dynamwebz | Apr 14, 2009 04:54am | #7

   Poplar will not take stain. It's paint grade or nothing. I used poplar for a bunch of cabinet drawers. I gave them a few coats of water based poly for some protection. Added 3/4" solid cherry false fronts and I'm good to go.

   Making the face frames from solid cherry is more than worth the extra effort. It machines quite easily and looks a heck of a lot better than edge banding.

   Tried and True varnish oil puts a nice finish on the cherry as well.

2. 
   Frank Vucolo | Apr 14, 2009 07:05am | #8

   If you do go with cherry ply, you pretty much have to go with cherry edge banding or face frames.

   Mike's right. Cherry is great to work. If you have never worked with it, you are in for a treat. Get a sample planed/scraped/sanded and then wipe on an oil/varnish blend like Waterlox, Liberon or Formby's Tung Oil (it's a varnish blend) or even a wipe on poly.

   You'll probably see the result and say something like "stain, schmain, this stuff is sweet!"

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 14, 2009 09:27am | #9

   Just for clarification.  Formby's Tung Oil Finish and Waterlox (Satin, Original/Sealer, and Gloss) are both varnishes, not oil/varnish mixes.  Liberon makes a number of products.  I believe the Finishing Oil is an oil/varnish mix. 

   Either kind of product can be wiped on.  With the varnish you leave on a thin film and can let it build to what ever thickness you want.  With oil/varnish mixes, the directions always tell you to wipe off excess or to buff or something similar since with that type finish you can't leave an appreciable film on the surface or it would be soft almost gummy. 

   If you are thinking about oak, which could be both plywood and facings, it takes stain well but doesn't need stain, and works well with an oil/varnish mix finish, which should be sufficient protection inside a fitted closet.  Also would be a relatively economical choice.