Hi to all:
I just bought some beautiful spalted maple by mail order. I have not used this kind of wood before. The seller said it was sound. It has lots of areas where I could probably put a finger through it . Is this to be expected with spalted? My own thoughts are to 1. return it and eat the shipping. 2. brush on marine epoxy and hope it would saturate the punky areas and solidify them eneough so I could resaw into tenth inch thick veneers that Would hold up to glueing onto a substrate. Any ideas , experiences, etc. would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Rubb.
Replies
...probably put a finger through it . Is this to be expected with spalted?
not if the seller represented it as sound...
...brush on marine epoxy and hope it would saturate the punky areas and solidify them eneough so I could resaw into tenth inch thick veneers that Would hold up to glueing onto a substrate...
if you're desperate - - I think I'd ship it back...
Rudd, I get the picture that only some spots on this material are punky (?) If that's the case...and most of it is useable...I'd first call the supplier and attempt to negotiate. He's represented that it is "sound", so it should be...but in fairness to the supplier, spalted wood is a nightmare to handle. It's like trying to source blue cheese that isn't moldy. I suspect you and your dealer will be able to arrive at a compromise as to how much of what you have is useable and he'll probably pop for sending you a little more of it. He doesn't want it back and you don't want to pay the freight to send it to him.
If you're otherwise pleased with the color (nice sharp veining), you might be looking awhile before you find anything better...especially via mail order. Good spalted maple isn't all that common (not to mention, the quality attributes are pretty subjective)...and buying it sight unseen is a real crapshoot.
Rubb,
If you decide to keep the wood, there is a product by Minwax (I think) that calls itself "Wood Hardener". I've seen it at the BOB (Home Depot). I have not used it but I have heard from others that it works. I personnally have used several coats of clear shellac on some pretty punky, very soft stuff on the edge of a "Big Leaf" Maple slab with great results. The thickness you are contemplating will test any "hardening" method. Best of luck! Please post outcome!
Mack
What percent is Punky? 33% or more call em and gripe about it. spalt occurs in dead wood so it is natural for some to be deader than other..epoxy? Nah...they are still growin trees.
Rubb,
Depends on what you want do with it. I have turned quite a bit of punky spalted maple, I use the Hot-Stuff CA glue to harden the punky parts.
Greg
You're mistake, as you realize, was buying spalted wood by mailorder.
CHASSTANFORD,
I remember you! You're the guy that had to spout your opinion that some guy had just purchased a brand new tool that was junk! Now you find it necessary to boost your ego by pointing out some other person's mistake when you assume he realizes it already! I hope Santa brings you a lump of coal!!!!
Mack
Edited 12/18/2003 4:21:17 PM ET by Mack
Mack,
The "your mistake" remark appears more a commentary on the problems inherent in buying wood sight-unseen than an attempt to make the recipient feel bad. (I think).
To Chasstanford,
For people who live in remote places (like me) it helps to have someone to trust (from experience) to select and send supplies. Because that's the only way we'll ever get the woods that don't exist where we live. And it's not necessary to be in a remote place to not have access to one or another wood. But mind-reading is an iffy thing and one person's beautiful curly maple is another's *&^%$!@# difficult to mill junk.
When I get wood that I would not have selected in person, it's not because the sender wasn't trying to comply with my long-distance request or is attempting to foist sub-par stuff on me.
VL
Look at the profiles..2 cancers battlin it out <G>. Could be an astrological subconsious adversion to the cancerous part of spalted wood..hmm?
Don't know about spalted maple, but I picked up some soft maple with areas that looked punky and was told this particular "imperfection" was referred to as "Artisy" and was sought after by crafters who make 3-D carvings for use as fur. I've no reason to disbelieve this, as the person who told me stood to gain or lose nothing. Whether there's any truth to it or not I've not yet bothered to find out. Bottom line, though, if a product is sold as sound (or FAS/1C) then it should be. If you purchased 500bf and can only realistically use 300', contact the vendor and try to talk it over.
Grizzly tools are junk. Spalted Maple that one can punch holes in with a finger is useless. My ego couldn't care less if people throw their money away on either one.
I would not buy spalted lumber sight unseen. First of all, even if the spalted areas are sound the overall pattern needs to be seen and evaluated in relation to the project. Does the spalted pattern make the impact the artist was looking for? Is it too asymmetrical? Is the pattern wild enough to be interesting in its own right?
The use of spalted stock is to make an already devastatingly beautiful project (and beautifully planned one would hope) an utter work of art. It is to be used with forethought, *perhaps* restraint, and with as much of an artistic eye as one can muster.
How can that be done if the craftsman hasn't laid eyes on the stock? This doesn't preclude those serendipitous occassions when we are pleasantly surprised by a purchase. However, to pick up the phone specifically to buy spalted lumber, and always expect a good result, seems to be more than a bit of a reach.
Edited 12/20/2003 7:48:17 AM ET by CHASSTANFORD
Edited 12/21/2003 2:03:57 PM ET by CHASSTANFORD
You know seen unseen artist smartist P U ! its all rotted rotten . I seen a lot of things made from it by a lot of people- I have used some on the lathe. To use the junk it is a pain in the but treat it with glue or something eles to keep the punky rotten crap together so it will cut.
I cant belive people pay $ for ROTTEN wood - Go look in someone's firewood, I'm sure you will find all you want on the bottom of the stack .
I would send the slimey rotten crap back . If you look on Ebay this Spalted Junk sells for more than nice Walnut or Cherry.
You know a Terd is a Tred no matter what they tell you.
Ron
Chasstanford,
Opinions are just like a--holes; everybody has one!
Mack
Well, Rubb...... trying to get back to your original questions, but still addressing some other comments:
I don't think you should have to expect "sound" wood of any species to have many areas (or any areas, for that matter) where you can put your finger through it. That is, if you are speaking about the lumber stock that you purchased. Now, if you had sliced it into 1/10 inch veneer and then put your finger through it, I think that would be acceptable and probably expected with spalted wood.
Can you stabilize it with epoxy? Sure. You can also stabilize it with concrete. But both of these treatments will surely affect the look and feel of the wood. Really, only you can decide if that is acceptable.
To speak to C. Stanford's contention that one shouldn't purchase wood sight unseen: I must disagree ... in part. If one is only able to acquire a particular chunk of lumber by this method, then there is really no other choice. But one must be willing to be surprised and able to shift design gears to accomodate the unanticipated results.
And while I'm in here...Mack: calm down, it's almost Solstice, the day's will soon be getting longer, it's a time to rejoice.
Well:
Some of this discussion has made for some lively reading, and I thank you all for your replies. After some thought, I think I will keep the wood and learn what I learn from dealing with it. Mr. Arno's advice seemed particularly wise, and I am now looking for some really good bleu cheese without moldy areas. bye, Rubb.
Jon usually does give good to great advice when it comes to all things wood. Politics are another matter entirely... ;-)
For what it's worth... I saw some pictures a while back of a bowl that was turned out of punky Maple. The guy had to solidify the punky parts with something - I forget what - before he turned it. It wasn't really spalted much, though. But it did make for a very striking visual effect... the contrast between the punky wood and the solid wood.
Regards,
Kevin
The Independent Voter.com
"Rather fail with honor than succeed by fraud" - Sophocles.
How original.
Yep!
All Junk!
Mack
Hey Rubb;
You say [lots!!] of areas are so soft you can put a finger thru them. Complain to the seller. Representing it as sound is not true . A few places where it is soft is to be expected. I use spalted wood quite often and encounter soft spots all the time. I just cut out the areas I can't use or a least make sure they aren't on the edges or where a joint is going to be. The wood tends to dissappear fast when sanding and unless this can become part of the design it is a pain in the butt. When I do use it I just make sure it is well saturated with finishing oil( It really soaks up the Danish oil) and then finish with a varathane.
Good Luck
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