Protecting a shop countertop
I have a newly installed section of base cabinets in my workshop, and I’ve installed a two inch thick douglas fir top.
I’ve sanded the top to 220 grit, and applied three coats of a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits.
I’m going to install a heavy steel bench vice, grinder, etc. along this run of countertop, so I’m not looking to maintain a blemish-free appearance, long term, just want to protect the wood with an easily touched-up finish.
When FWW reviewed ready-made benches, they commented on how nice the Lie Nielsen workbench was, and they stated that the bench was finished just this way.
My question is this: How many coats of this mixture should I apply before there’s enough basic protection? I plan to apply two coats of a hard floor finish paste wax on top of the sealer, and call that good enough.
Just want to protect the wood and try to discourage loss of resins, checking, etc. Not trying to win a furniture contest.
If you like the way it looks... you're done! When it starts to look a little ratty to you put on another coat of oil. I wouldn't bother with the wax. It will get in the way when you want to oil the top again.
I'm not really sure what you mean by losing resins, but if this wood is dry it shouldn't check now. No oil finish or wax will do much to stop the transfer of water vapor. Then again any finish will allow moisture through it, some faster than others.
Okay -- makes sense to me.Thanks, man.
If you want to up the protection a bit without turning it into a big project, I'd shift to an oil/varnish (Watco) mix rather than just boiled linseed oil. You still don't want it to build on the surface so the appearance would be virtually identical.
I agree about skipping the wax. You don't often want things to slide around on a workbench.
Pretty funny. I actually hadn't even thought about the slipperiness quotient. I'll give the Watco a try. Thanks
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