I have been reading articles on surface preparation for years, but I’m stiill not happy with my finishes. We use mainly woods – cherry and Hondorous mahogany. I sand with 220 grit all the time before applying a stain (we are now using gell stains and varnishes). It seems that the stain sits on the surface, and I don’t get any character of the grain to the finish. People are now saying that finish with 150 grit may be better. What do you suggest to get better grain enhancement? Should I sand between coats of stain? Should I sand between the coats of varnish? What grits should I use.
Thank you for any suggestions.
Ken
Edited 12/15/2008 9:08 pm ET by KenMo
Replies
Ken,
I normally sand to 180 grit and stop.
Gel stains do just sit on the surface. You'll find that if you use a dye first and then the gel you will get a far better look than just the gel alone.
A tried and true combination for mahogany is a yellow dye, a medium yellow or lemon yellow, followed by a deep red brown stain or glaze. You will be amazed at the difference.
Take the time to familiarize yourself with this very versatile colorant by reading books by Jeff Jewitt and or Bob Flexnor. There are chapters dedicated to dyes.It is worth the time and takes guess work out of the equation.
You shouldn't sand between stain layers as all you'll do is cut the color.
You should sand between varnish coats to smooth and level the surface as well as give it "tooth" for the next coat of varnish. When sanding between coats of varnish, I'll use either 220 or 320. I'll usually start with the less aggressive paper, 320, but if the surface needs more aggressive sanding to level it, I'll use 220. I take the stance of "first do no harm" If the 320 is doing the job, I have less fear of cutting through the varnish and hitting bare wood.
I encourage you to explore the world of dyes. Personally I work with water based dyes that I get from W.D. Lockwood in New York. They come in every color imaginable. They will open up a vivid, visual world for you. Make some samples and you'll see what I mean.
Peter
Thank you for your fabulous suggestions. I am sure that professionals who take courses get such information, but Fine Woodworking is now making this information available to us amatuers.
Ken
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