As with most table saws, the power switch on my vintage Unisaw is several inches below the front rail. Mine is on the right, but I don’t think left would make much difference. When I was younger, my hand seemed to find the switch instinctively. More recently, I sometimes have to fumble for it and may even have to look for it. Not safe. Does anyone have experience with a better switch location? Maybe above the table, suspended rigidly from the ceiling. The new wiring wouldn’t be a problem. I’m already planning on a suspended blade guard/vacuum system.
Edited 1/10/2008 11:59 am ET by Troost Avenue
Replies
I outfitted a school shop with a bunch of these ReiTech switches. They are available in several versions and electrical capacities. These are rather sensitive to a light touch. Until you get used to the size, you will probably, accidentally, turn off the saw in mid cut. You won't have any problem finding one of these. Just tap it with your knee.
http://www.reitech.com/products/controls.asp
There are many other switches with large stop buttons. Graingers is a source. They aren't inexpensive. It's better to have a stop button that you can easily hit with your knee, rather than reaching down, especially in an emergency.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I just installed this one from Rockler over the New Years. I put it lower left on my saw, and pop it off with my knee. It is a vast improvement of the hard to find switch on my Delta contractors saw.Johnhttp://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&filter=power%20switch
I like that switch, does it operate on 220 or just 110? Is it magnetic?Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
It is just 110 volt, not magnetic. It is pretty basic, but works for my needs. Magnetic would be nice!John
Lots of good ideas so far. Particularly liked the reitech, can't miss that off switch and it would seem to guide your hand easily to the on switch as well. However, I think I would be more comfortable if I could also see the switch when I push the on button. The fence mount, if I understand it correctly, is an interesting possibility but, for wide cuts, wouldn't it be at an inconvenient distance if you're standing to the left of the blade. I'm still wondering about a ceiling mounted switch at eye level. Surely someone has some experience with that arrangement.
"I'm still wondering about a ceiling mounted switch at eye level. Surely someone has some experience with that arrangement."
Sounds like something you'd constantly be whacking your head against.
-Steve
I think a switch needs to be operable in an emergency. You don't want to take a hand or eye off the work. As a matter of fact, you may be ducking. Something you can hit with a knee, without looking, would be more desirable for me. I put some Uniguards on the saws I outfitted with the ReiTech switches. The Uniguard has a place for a switch as well as a holder for push sticks. I don't want to reach over the saw since that is where things may be getting out of control. The Reitech switches are large and I had to build a mount to keep them out of the way of the hand wheels. A saw operator should't stand in line with the area between the blade and the fence. I mounted to the left of the cabinet.Several years ago I was changing the blades on a 16" jointer. A faulty switch caused the machine to turn on. The gib and the blade went flying and this large machine started dancing across the floor. I didn't know if anything else was going to fly. No way did I want to get off the floor to find the switch. You need to think about what will happen if it really hits the fan. It's that one time in a million we hope never happens but that's what you have to be prepared for.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Dang Hammer, You gave me the willies with that jointer story. I would not even want to be in the next block with a jointer that size jumping around.One thing to keep in mind when making a switch too easy to see, also makes it easy to hit by mistake. I have an old PM 72, which had the switch on the left, a little lower than I would like. I also had a couple of Rockwell saws, and their switches to the right of the blade, which caused me to reach for their switches when using the PM. When I mounted the new switch on the PM, I had to keep it out of the way of the tilt wheel, so it is just forward of the table. It also happened to be at the same height as where my pocket knife resides in my pocket. I think my knife and that saw had it in for me, because they started the saw without my knowing it was going to happen a couple of time before I made a new more fool proof surround for the on button.Having said that, I think everyone should be aware of this potential hazard. While it has not happened with the unisaw, I just went back to that one, and found that by looking that I can turn on that saw with my knife in my pocket, and no hands, and very little effort. So there is potential for starting that saw as well.
Your story about left right switches is something I run into, only in a different but just as dangerous way. I grew up with and still ride vintage British motorcycles. I also ride a modern crotch rocket. The foot brake is on the right with the Brits, brake on the left for modern bikes. On a few occasions I've stomped on the brake when intending to shift or down shifted when intending to brake. The results are pretty much the same. The back tire locks up. It really freaks my wife out when I start getting sideways right in front of her. She's often following on her bike.I cut off the end of my thumb on that jointer accident. With only two knives in the cutterhead that RJ42 must have danced 12". Thing sounds like a jet as it is, must weigh 1000#. The machine was hard wired to a buss bar. I hit the kill switch before starting the job. A couple of the gib bolts were rounded on the corners. I went to get some new ones. In that time, someone came in the shop, turned on the juice, did their one cut and left. The power indicator light was off, turns out it was burned out. The magnetic switch had been added by a previous owner. I never noticed that the on button was flush with the shroud. I must have brushed it with my leg. It doesn't take much with a mag switch. I'm rather careful about checking that there is no electricity to the machines, now. Never trust a switch! I had all the hard wires fitted with plugs, just to be sure. That's how the male plug ended up on the wrong end of the wire. Weird things can happen at unexpected moments. Breaking basic safety rules isn't a good idea. I'm not sure what I'd be doing without any fingers.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
but, for wide cuts, wouldn't it be at an inconvenient distance if you're standing to the left of the blade.GOOD observation. One of those. "Well, it seemed like a good idea at the time."However, it still may have merit for most work. With my working habits the fence would only be out of reach when cutting sheet goods (I think).
I made the original suggestion about the switch on the fence. The saw had a magnetic switch, so it was possible to have multiple on/off switches, in this case a conventional switch below the front rail plus the switch on the fence.
John W.
"The saw had a magnetic switch, so it was possible to have multiple on/off switches" Intriguing! I hope you can post a pic or two when you get your new saw set up.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
", in this case a conventional switch below the front rail plus the switch on the fence"
That sounds better to me, John. I'd hate to have to try and remember where the off switch is if it's only location is always changing, especially on a 50" commercial fence.
Paul
Hammer, do you remember about how much one of those switches was at that time? I can't ask about a specific model, because I don't know which saw is landing in February or March yet.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 1/10/2008 11:17 pm by forestgirl
I remember a whole bunch of stuff from that project, but not the cost of an individual switch. The jointer switch prompted a new look at the shop, I came very close to losing eight fingers. I think I bought 45 switches. They had to work with a variety of equipment, 110, 220 and 3phase, prices varied with the model. I don't remember the switches being very expensive. These things are big, very big. They aren't much more than a plastic box but they work exactly as advertised. You just have to barely kiss them and the machine is off. This can be a little frustrating at first with accidental trips. I had the whole shop rewired and electric brakes put on the table saws. I also upgraded fences and guards plus other work. One part I can't forget was when the electrician's helper installed a male plug on the live end of a 3 phase line. It was seen before things went live, thankfully. The shop looked real professional with the switches on most everything. The keyed locks are a nice back up when you have to lock and tag out.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
" You just have to barely kiss them and the machine is off." Which I can imagine you might do in that jointer situation! Jeeeeez Louise!
Wonder how long that electrician helper kept his job?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
As an experiment I placed a switch, face up, on the right side of a rip fence and found that it was the the best set up I ever used. I'm between saws at the moment, but I plan to play with the concept further in the future.
John White
I like the idea of on the fence. How about a 'TAP BAR' that hangs off the back of the fence (top and front free to do what you want with) that runs the full length. I guess this makes sense? Does to me.
A good idea. When I get a saw for my new shop I will be experimenting with a fence mounted switch, I may try some version of your idea.John W.
On my Powermatic 66 the switch was set back a few inches from the front of the fence, so I took some pieces of 2x4's and blocked the switch out so that it's now even with the front of the fence. Now all I have to do is slide my thigh over the switch and it pushes the off button, which is proud of the front of the plate. The on button is set back so there is no chance of turning the saw on this way.
Ralph
Edited 1/10/2008 3:34 pm ET by 1955
This isn't an answer, but an observation.
When I was younger, I learned woodworking in a cabinet shop that had an old Unisaw (with the switch on the right). I worked there for several summers.
I recently got a PM2000 (with a nice switch). But the switch is on the left. Even after a year or so of using the new saw, every now and then, my right hand tries to turn off the saw before I remember that the switch is on the left. Old habits do indeed die hard.
Mauery
I have two DC's. One is dedicated to the table saw only for now. I also have the PM2000. The switch is nice and the kill switch is big and hard to miss. I use two remote Long Rangers and attached a velcro strip to the right side of the switch and attached the Long Ranger for that I use for that DC. Now having two swithches together, I have improved on my natural reaction for turning the saw off.
Didn't mean to hijack this thread but thought you'd like to know what another PM owner is doing.
The current left-tilt Unisaw has a switch mounted on the left, below fence rail height. The "stop" switch protrudes from the front of the box and all it takes is a bump with the knee to turn it off. Very handy. The "on" portion of the switch is recessed in a circle and you must insert a finger deliberately to turn on the saw. Also very safe. The switch is probably available for retrofit to older saws and it is magnetic.
Bruce
Agreed. I also have a left tilt Unisaw. When standing to the left of the line of the blade, I am positioned to turn off the saw with my knee. This is SAFETY when both hands are busy!!!!!A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
Two whole hands is good! I sometimes cut up rough lumber on the tablesaw and it is not always perfectly flat. I am cautious about the way I lay the stock on the saw and am careful about the wood binding, and about where my hands are! I have had a couple of pieces where you can just hear the slightly different pitch of a bind starting from where the wood is releasing internal tensions. It is really nice to just stop feeding the stock and hold the wood right where it is and stop the saw with a knee to the switch.
On a different tack on the saw deal, I seem to hear very little good comments here about the Delta Unisaw. Where I bought mine, WoodWerks, they stocked Delta, Powermatic, Sawstop and General. My impression, and the salesman's, was that the Unisaw was an excellent saw with some great features. Many today want a riving knife or a brake cartridge, and maybe that is good. But as for me I am very happy and satisfied with my Unisaw X5. I love the controls and the Unifence. I have 3 horsepower and have cut a bunch of 8/4 hard maple with nary a problem.
Be safe, have fun.
Bruce
Thanks for all the replies to date. Seems that nobody likes the idea of an eye level switch, even if I promise to combine it with a second, knee kick type. Regarding emergency turn offs, in 50 years of amateur table sawing, I've never had one. The occasional times I have put the blade in a dangerous bind, the splitter and cauls kept me safe from kick backs and my 115v, 2 hp motor blew the 20a breaker. It might be different with a more powerful saw and more leeway on the fuse but, seriously, what other emergencies evolve slowly enough to permit an emergency reaction? Isn't that why SawStop was invented. That's probably a whole new thread, but maybe a review if these emergency situations would be of real value.
I'm happy with my left tilt 5 HP Unisaw with the B fence. However, if I were to buy a new saw today (not likely!), I would consider the SawStop.
BTW, I added the add-on splitter you stick behind the blade after drilling the little holes behind to blade. It is a little green plastic thing. Forgot who makes it but it works! I have split some 8 ft red oak that squeezed shut past the splitter. I'm sure if the splitter had no been present, something would have happened that would have raised my anxiety.
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
You're right. I have bough the splitter you describe, but I laid it aside and haven't gotten around to installing it yet. Micro-Jig is the name, I believe.
My bad!!
Bruce
On my combination I moved the saw switch to the base of the front of the cabinet. Not easy to start but a toe switches it off without letting go of anything.
I like the ReiTech someone suggested. But there are lots of "plans" for DIY switch enhancements. Usually they are some sort of board that pivots above or to the side of the switch and will depress the ON side of the switch. They allow you to to turn the TS (or any other tool) off by kicking or kneeing or using you hand anywhere on a large area.
There was a cheap worktable designed for mounting your circular saw underneath and using the work table as a table saw. The one cool feature in my eyes was a full width push bar that turned off the power switch mounted underneath.
But it seems to me the MOST important issue is being able to easily turn your intrinsically dangerous tablesaw off without having to use your hands. When bad things happen, you want the most and easiest options available.
You know I remember somewhere there as a post for plans for a wood switch cover that had a bar that extended under the fence rail, that you could just hit with your knee to kill the power and a whole that you had to reach into to turn it on. It may have been in shop notes, I see if I can find it. I like to stand to the right of the fence and find it inconvenient to reach to the left side of the spinning blade to cut it off.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Be safe; i find that lowering the saw blade first and then turning off the saw to be the safest way to avoid an accident. What do you thing?
Troost,
My tablesaw switch meets the three basic requirements in my mind.
1. It does not require me to take a hand off my workpiece to shut off. I can shut it off using my leg.
2. It is large and easy to find. I can operate it without taking my eyes off the blade.
3. (Most importantly) I cuts power to the saw.
I own a tablesaw with the switch mounted to the left. I built a 18" long shut-off bar which is hinged and hangs in front of the switch. I only need to bump it to shut the saw off. I feel that the left is more logical than the right. If a workpiece were binding or threatening to kick back, my first reaction would be to step aside (to the left of the table saw). From there, I can easily reach the switch mounted at the front left corner.
Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Troost
I too am always looking for a safer and easier ways for most things... so, what I did is mounted a power strip to a piece of 2 X 4, so that I could plug in both the table saw and shop vac and placed it on the floor in front of table saw and use my foot to turn them on and off. Being that safety comes first, and my hands are usually busy holding materials and eyes are on the blade, I don't have to take my hands or eyes off my work! Power strip has a 8 ft cord, which makes it easier to move back and forth from table saw when ripping longer materials!
Just wanted to share what works for me... Good luck and stay safe.
Norma
Are you sure the power strip is rated for the amperage you're pulling, particularly since both motors are starting at the same instant? I'm not sure this is a good idea. I'd like to hear some other opinions.
Edited 2/10/2008 6:44 pm ET by Troost Avenue
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled