Can you fill the imperfections such as small nicks with bees wax and then cover it with shellac? Will the shellac bond and be permanent or will it flake off at some point?
I have tried Famowood filler, dust and CA, and others, but I have not been able to get a good color match. I put some bees wax on some test imperfections and used a cabinet scraper to level it with the surface. The surface looks great. I am concerned that the upcoming coat of shellac will not adhere and be permanent. Any comments or suggestions from those of you who are much wiser in these type of things?
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While if any finish would adhere to the wax, it would be shellac, it's not recommended at all. Wax for filling imperfections is used AFTER finishing, and then only for very small dings. For anything of any substance you would want a harder, more durable filler. The only filler for before finishing use is slivers cut from the same wood, with the grain oriented the same as the surrounding wood.
Otherwise, the time to fix imperfections is after the staining and first coat of the top coat has been applied. Then fillers can be color matched to the final appearance. This is where shellac or lacquer "burn-in" sticks come in, or where other fillers can be tinted and applied.
The other thing to mention is that on items being finished for the first time, there should be very, very few dings to be filled. Also be aware that dent, that haven't broken the wood fibers can be steamed flush to the surface, eliminating the need for filling.
Thanks Steve. Just a clarification. I applied tung oil first and let it dry. I then applied shellac. Then I would put on the wax and then put on a finish coat of shellac. Does this alter your suggestion?
Not really. The shellac is hard, the wax soft, and I would expect the shellac over wax to crack under any sort of impact. Wax filler sticks are made to use on top of the finish for that reason.
Hi Steve,
I've had good luck using burn in sticks or stick shellac, before any finishing. As long as you know what color the finish will be, and choose accordingly. This eliminates the problems associated with cutting thru the color coats when levelling the burn in sticks.
Only problem I've had is in some instances, Minwax Antique oil will leach out the color from darker shellac sticks. I prevent this by painting the repair with a dot of shellac to seal it off from the oil's solvents.
Ray
Yes, when the finishing schedule is well worked out they can work fine that way. But only with the harder burn-in sticks, not with soft wax sticks. I don't think all that many folks have the schedule well enough worked out to carry that off. Another reason for always making test boards on any new finish.
I use sawdust out of the vacuum and mix with the shellac!
As Steve has said, you are better off using the burn-in type of stick filler under any type of finish. I used to use the soft wax stick to fill small holes, checks, and whatnot after I completed the finish. I was never truly happy with the outcome as I found that the wax application (from the filler) would alter the sheen enough to draw attention to the repair spot. Nowadays I usually apply the first or first two coats of finish then use hard burn-in sticks then apply the final coats of finish. This way I can match the color of the fill to what's actually there in the wood, and I can be assured of an even sheen after the final coat of finish.
A tip: The success of a fill job relies on how well you can match the varying color/texture of the surrounding wood. Seldom will any significant area of any board be completely any one color. So to hide the fill one must use two or even three colors in each ding, hole, or timid joint. Also if it is a round hole that needs filling, such as a nail hole, don't be afraid to alter it a bit to an odd triangle shape. Roundness more than anything shouts out.... "Hey look at me!'
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