What do you use to finish your bookcase? Currently on this shelf is a couple of coats of Minwax Woodfinish, and I am considering adding a protective coat for durability.
Can any poly be used, or would a non-Minwax poly not react well? Is there any other recommendations you might have? And then I guess there is the question of satin vs. the various glosses.
Any thoughts? Finishing is far from my fortee.
Thanks.
Replies
There is no reason at all to use Minwax brand for the top coat. You can use about any top coat, after the Minwax has had time to become well cured. Bookcases usually don't need dramatic amounts of protection. This might be a good place to use shellac for a top coat. It is naturally glossy, but rubs pretty easily to a satin sheen. You you can use any oil based varnish. I'd recommend staying away from a polyurethane varnish. You don't need the extra abrasion resistence. There are a number of excellent non-poly varnishes. Examples include, Behlen Rockhard, Waterlox (Satin, Original/Sealer, and Gloss). Pratt & Lambert 38, in three sheens, and Cabot Varnish (800* series)
There are a lot of good alternatives. But - even though shellac is usually my first choice (I've just got this thing for shellac, I guess) I don't automatically discount poly (wipe-on). I recognize that there is a school of thought that dismisses poly, but I've never quite understood why - not arguing - just scratching my head. You do need to check the labels on both products for compatibility (I'm not familiar with the Minwax woodfinish you mention) - but sounds like you have already confirmed this.
On an already-assembled piece - like the shelves in a bookcase - one thing I would think about is how easy/difficult it will be to apply a good, smooth finish, esp where the shelves meet the case (of course, if it's filled with books, won't be seen).
Wipe-on poly is easy to apply - use a folded, non-textured paper towel, plain white with no ducks or Hannah Montana or whatever printed on them (Viva is one brand). Use a light touch to apply 3 - 4 thin coats overlapping 1/4" each pass - focus on using the "trailing edge" of the paper towel, not the full flat surface, and use the part where you have the single fold, not multiple folded layers. Unlike shellac, you can go back over the pass you just made if you need to. Only need to wait 3-4 hours between coats, and no "between-coat" sanding needed. I use a small squirt bottle to control the amount of finish on the towel, rather than dunking it in the poly. I would never have thought of using a paper towel, but that was a suggestion in Jeff Jewitt's "Finishing", so I tried it and loved it. I use satin, but still knock back the gloss sometimes - I wait a couple-three days, and go at it with 0000 steel wool - suspect the white synthetic pad would do also, but I don't have much experience there.
Any brand should do - but - an article not too long ago in FWW rated Minwax at the top in terms of performance - surprised them and me - and its just about the cheapest available - a two-fer - at like $10-$12/qt in any hardware, you can probably afford a "trial run" on scrap wood to see how you like it. I always have a can up there on the shelf with the Waterlox, BLO, mix-my-own shellac(s), yada-yada-yada.
Sorry to be long-winded, but sounded like you might want some details.
If you wiped all the excess off with the Minwax stain and have allowed it to dry properly, you can use many finishes over it as a top coat. Solvent based top coats may activate the stain. Excess brushing, wiping, runs, etc. can lift some color with Minwax Woodfinish, particularly darker colors.
I work with oil based Minwax products a lot. I work with many other finishes, too. When I use Minwax Woodfinish stain, I often coat it with Minwax oil based poly in semi-gloss. Typically I use two applications of the stain, as you have. I apply two coats of the poly before I do any sanding. Otherwise, it's too easy to cut through and sand the stain. I don't use an agressive back and forth motion, the way you do with raw wood. I just make two or three pases with 220 to cut off dust nibs and goobers. These are a big pain with most polys, it's as if the poly coagulates, leaving bumps all over. The third coat usually goes on much smoother but there are still some goobers in the film.
Again, I make a few strokes to cut off the high points of these bumps. Then I switch to #0000 steel wool. This will blend in the finish and give it a uniform surface. I don't use any lubricant because I like to see the effect each stroke I make has on the surface. Steel wool is an abrasive, so you still have to be careful on edges or anything that stands proud, you don't want to rub through.
The steel wool will give the surface a flat/matte looking shine. I apply a whisper thin coat of paste wax, let it dry and buff it with an old T-shirt.Repeat if necessary. This returns the shine to semi-gloss. With a little practice, this finish will look great and feel like glass. It has good resistance to just about anything it's likely to see in a home, cleaners to scratching.
There are tons of different finishes and other approaches to polishing up the film but what I described is a good choice for utility pieces like a book shelf and easy to do. Thinner coats with the poly are less likely to have as many goobers as a flooded on coat. I use it straight from the can, no thinners added.
Do yourself a favor, get some products and experiment on scrap that are treated the same as your work piece, do 12"x12" squares, not 2"x2". Finishing needs to be your forte', it can make or break any woodworking project and you will want more than one system. A good finish isn't about the products you use, it's about the skill of the finisher.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I wouldn't let Poly any where near your books unless you want this to happen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fdr7A0HdAQ&feature=PlayList&p=D8A9EBCA35F634CA&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=23
; )
And that is heavy phone book cover stock not just a magazine. They will do the same to your ear if you let them.
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 10/6/2009 11:29 pm by roc
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled