Hi all. I have a question or 2 about POP as a grain filler.
1. do you mix it with water and apply let it dry and sand? or use the finish to liquify and harden the plaster?
2 if no tint is added does the original wood color come thru? White Oak in mind
If I can get some Pumice how different is that treated?
Living in the sticks I can’t run out to the local store and get pore filler commercially made.
Replies
Shoe,
I have never seen anything but unsatisfactory results from pumice or plaster of paris as a pore filler.
"Out in the sticks?"
I live in the middle of the state of Florida. There isn't ANY supply here for hundreds of miles other than that which I can buy at Home Depot or auto supply stores. That pretty much limits things to mineral spirits, denatured alcohol and rubbing compounds.
But no one is far from some kind of delivery. Get Por-O-Pac here:
http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?splid=SPLID02&pn=99P03.11&bhcd2=1257716485
or here:
http://www.woodcraft.com/catalog/family.aspx?id=2004492
Thin it with mineral spirits if needed. Buy more than you need, if you want to have it on hand. It never goes bad.
Rich
Edited 11/8/2009 4:46 pm ET by Rich14
Here is on description of using plaster of Paris to fill grain.
I find it interesting that Rich has never seen the job done satisfactorily. However, I suppose all that tells me is he's never seen the job done properly. Slainte.
richardjonesfurniture.com
Richard,"I suppose all that tells me is he's never seen the job done properly"Probably.But since silex type filler is so "fool proof" I've never strayed far from it.Rich
Rich, "since silex type filler is so "fool proof" I've never strayed far from it"
In many respects I don't blame you for I mostly turn to the ready made stuff, particularly if I'm looking to blend in with a filler that's generally slightly darker than the foreground colour. It's easier and less time consuming in general. On contemporary pieces I generally reserve the plaster of Paris method for when I'm after a contrast (as in the link I provided earlier). Slainte.richardjonesfurniture.com
I should pass on some information given to me by Peter Gedrys. He pointed out that among the commercial pore fillers that he knows only the Sherwin-Williams contains a very high concentration of the silex material, others contain major amounts of other, cheaper, fillers. Unfortunately, the S-W is available only in gallons, so unless you use a lot, pooling with friends might be a good idea.
Thanks. Looks like you are almost french polishing the plaster vs mixing a batch and working like a fool to spread it before it sets. While looking for ferrous sulfate suppliers it struck me that it is a common medication for iron deficientcy. Any pharmacy should have it OTC. Will try a test panel today and get back.Thanks all.
Where are you located, Shoe? I (not thinking) bought enough Copperas to last me a lifetime. I purchased it here - http://www.sciencestuff.com/prod/Chem-Rgnts/C1757
Let me know if you have trouble coming up with some. Maybe I can send you a bit.
Chris
Thanks. Living in Canada. So we might be arrested for terrorism :)But I'll keep it mind.
Ha! It's a plot to turn our good ol' American Red, White, and Blue Oak (grows in Vermont) dark grey!
Funny you should ask! I just tried Sgian's POP pore fill yesterday. (The whole schedule, copperas and all, actually) I found the POP application difficult - here's a chance to learn from my mistakes!
1) Instead of adding dry paint to the POP like Richard suggested, I used Transfast-colored water. This was a mistake. I liked the color until it was added to the POP - then a nice, rich red turned instantly Pepto Bismol. Bummer. Spend some time experimenting with color before moving to your actual test piece.
2) Use more water than I did. I had a light touch with the water, so later sections of the test piece dried almost instantly. That made it REALLY hard to get off in later steps.
So, I started again today with Behlen's Pore-o-pac and some Mixols. I used a too heavy mix of Copperas, so the oak is a little dark. But the Pore-O-Pac worked like a charm. Thinned it out with a little mineral spirits and added the color. It allowed me to get the exact color I wanted and provided lots of open time to really work it into the pores. It was easily scraped off with one of those fake credit cards I'm always getting in the mail. So, I'll let it dry for a few days and spray it with some lacquer. We'll see. I'm hoping to use the finish for a small kitchen/sofa table.
Anyway, thanks to Richard for posting the article, and here's hoping my table top comes out anywhere near as nice as his!
Chris
My grandfather used it all the time. I tried it on an oak project and it worked fine. I mixed it about the consistency of heavy cream and painted it on the surface, then sanded it off the next day. The oak had little white flecs all over the surface, but it stained without a flaw.
Edited 11/9/2009 11:02 am ET by Ray
I'll me up in the shop this afternoon. After a nap. I think I got this H1N1 and since Saturday PM felt like I got hit by a truck. Only thing that got me off the couch is our Football (Rugby type) team Won the west Season. Go Riders!!!!!!!!
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