My Dewalt planer will soon need new blades, I am wondering what you guys in the U S of A pay for them. Up here in Canada 3 replacement blades for the DeWalt 734 cost $ 69.99 plus 15% tax. or $ 81.00. Its Highway robbery.
Is their any other blades that would fit, Tell me what in the %&^*&^ are they made to account for the high price they charge.
I love the planer, but I would love it even more if the blades were much cheaper.
Jack
Replies
Hi Jack,
(Wow! I don't want to greet you in an airport, do I? ... Sorry. Old joke.)
I have the Dewalt 733. Its blades can be resharpened and I have a friend who's shop includes a surface grinder. He charges me 10 or 15 bucks (U.S.) and even made a fixture to simply his work. - BUT, I don't know if the blades of the 735 can be resharpened. I wish I could offer more help.
Btw, they get $50 U.S. for the two-blade set for the 734. For some reason, the dealer (Woodworker's Warehouse - now defunct) gave me an extra (third!) set when I bought the planer. Maybe he liked me...?)
Pete
Pete Thanks for a quick reply, but my 734 has 3 blades.
Jack
Oh nuts, Jack!
Thanks for correcting me. I must be overtired. MY planer is a 733, not a 734, and your is not a 735, it is a 734 as you say. I am allll conphoosed ... but my blades are re-sharpenable and I don't know if yours are or not - and it sounds as though they aren't.
Good luck in your search. Have you checked in with Freud? (The tool maker, not the shrink.)
Your stoopid friend (who actually is quite tired tonight),
Pete
PeteToo,
I cracked a blade on my 735 not long ago and the bracket that holds it in place. While at the Porter Cable, B&D and Dewalt repair centers the technicians swore that you could resharpen the 735 blades although the manual says you can't. Honestly I don't see why you can't if there is metal there. Anyone have any insight on this?
Hi Bio,
(Thanks for your inputs to the dust/toxicity questions too!)
The 733 has two little magnetic "jig"-like devices, in combination with a spring behind the blade, that register (hold) the cutting edge of the blade at the correct extension before it is clamped down by the mounting bolts. It's clever and it works.
IF the 735 has a similar "cutting edge-registering" system then I see no reason why the blades can't be resharpened *but I don't know what it has*.
Presumably, if one removes exactly the same amount of metal (and not very much - as in honing as mentioned above) from each blade in the sharpening process, this wouldn't matter - but you can't easily be sure of that.
Still, since I don't know how the 735 blades are mounted/registered, I feel as though I'm speaking when I shouldn't.
Pete
The 735's mounting system couldn't be more straightforward - you drop the blades onto 3 posts in the cutterhead. The precision I was referring to is the blade width and the location and height of the mounting holes - they're incredibly precise. I measured them with an engineer's digital caliper and I found that all 9 on my set of blades was within about 1/2 of a thousandth of an inch from the cutting edge of the blade.
In fact, measuring the distance from the blade to the near side of the mounting holes is a pretty good way to figure out if your honing has been consistent across the 3 blades. So long as the distance is consistent amongst the 9 nine holes, you can be pretty sure that the freshly honed set will work as if they were new.
Yeah I don't know if you can sharpen them hundreds of times but I'm sure you could touch them up a few times and have no problems. What is interesting to me is what makes a blade disposable? Out of the DeWalt shop why did they decide all of a sudden these couldn't be resharpened like many of their other blades?
"What is interesting to me is what makes a blade disposable?"
Basically, it's a crossover in the cost curve. When the cost to manufacture a disposable blade falls below a certain point, then buying a new disposable blade is cheaper than having a conventional blade resharpened. Obviously, the process of reducing the manufacturing cost takes into account the knowledge that the blade isn't intended to be resharpened, meaning that it can be made with less "meat."
-Steve
>>" Obviously, the process of reducing the manufacturing cost takes into account the knowledge that the blade isn't intended to be resharpened, meaning that it can be made with less "meat." "<<
Welllll, in principle maybe.
I just measured one of the blades from my 733. It is 0.125" (1/8th) thick and 1.044" from heel to edge (and 1 inch and 19/32 across (wide), of course) but my point is its thickness. Even a blade made to be replaced rather than re-sharpened *should* have some beef to it, just as the higher quality hand planes have thicker blades than cheaper ones.
MY question, Steve, would be: Why did they drop the neat indexing system (with the magnetic "jigs") of the 733? I am asuming that any *decent* planer blade has to be at least as thick (as beefy) as those of my 733. Maybe that's an incorrect asumption.
I really wish I could get a close look at a 735 - meaning closer than I can get in a store - to see their blade mounting system and judge for myself the sharpenability of the blades.
I certainly agree with DKeller that one can and should be able to extend the life of a set of blades with his honing technique, and his counting of honing strokes per blade is an admirable method of keeping things consistent.
How about getting sneaky: Sharpening the blades and then putting thin shim stock between them and the back-up posts to compensate for the material removed by sharpening?
(Or is this getting a little too wild?)
Resectfully,
Pete
I can snap you some pictures real quick if you would like.
I'd love to see them - but realize please that my interest is strictly academic. I am long retired, on a semi (mostly) fixed income and I don't plan to part with my DW733.
*smile*
Ackshully, what we all would probably like to see is a really good way for our Canadian friend to save money - already at least partly provided my DKeller's suggestion.
Pete
What academics are you addressing? I don't know if the mounting mechanism will tell you much.
Academic in the sense of adding to general knowledge but qualified, as I said, that the knowledge would probably be without practical purpose. It might however be helpful in some way to others here.
I'm just going to keep re-sharpening my three sets of 733 blades as they need it. I just bought about 100bf of nice, air-dried, roughsawn cherry, fer instance, with more to come. And I still have some BIG slabs of walnut from a tree my Dad and I cut down fifty years ago. (I was a late starter in this woodworking thing....)
Pete
Ha, sell me 20bdft of that Cherry. You don't need all of it :)
More important than the thickness of the blade itself is how well it is supported in the cutterhead.
-Steve
Absolutely no argument there, Steve, (not that I'm arguing at all - I'm not) and it may be that the 735's cutter head is itself beefier than that of the 733, allowing "cheaper" blades.
(*sigh* .... I'll bet thre's a Harvard MBA among the bean counters.)
As an interesting aside, when I first delivered two sets of 733 blades (I have three) to my machinist friend for sharpening, he called me with a question:
"Do you want the bevel at 37 1/2 degrees or 40 degrees?" he asked me. It turned out that one pair were beveled (by Dewalt) at 37 1/2 degrees and one set was at 40 degrees. I decided on 40 knowing that the steeper angle would cut well but dull sooner - but with three blade sets and a helpful friend, why not?
Pete
Pete - Shimming the blades on the 735 wouldn't work (and wouldn't be necessary). The blades are held by fitting over 3 posts in each blade location - naturally, there are 3 holes in the disposable blades. It's those holes that provide the correct cutterhead alignment - they are very precisley located in the center of the blade. The slop in those holes is all in the direction paralell with the length of the blade, which allows you to shift a knife that's gotten a chip in it.
Ahhhh HAH! Thank you. NOW we know how they did the dirty (so to speak).
My 733 blades are sprung out to and register against temporarily placed magnetic "jigs", as I've mentioned, and are held firmly in place by eight 1/4" capscrews.
Although I still haven't seen the complete layout of the 735 blade mounting I know that using springs for position and holding each blade in place with eight capscrews (into eight drilled and tapped holes - sixteen per cutterhead) is most likely quite a bit more expensive to manufacture than using a stud-indexing system such as you are describing.
I can't help but to say Nuts to the "no-shim works here" arrangement. I guess they call this progress.
I wonder if anyone knows how much sharpening can be done to 735 blades before there is not enough blade left to work properly.
(The two-feed-speed 735 came out only a few months after I bought my 733. For a while I lamented this fact. No more now because I am very happy with the 733 and the fact that my friend charges only ten bucks per set to sharpen the blades - and these blades are beefy enough to last for years and years.)
Pete
Oh by far the 2 speeds isn't the best feature of the 735. The blower on that thing is NICE. I simply have my 735 hooked to a 55 gallon trash can and it works like a charm. Does your 733 have that feature?
Nope. No blower, darn it.
In fact the dust collection "hood" that came with my 733 was supposed to be an option, I think. I have that hooked through a 4" to 2" adapter to my Fein Turbo III (Model 9.77.25).
The Turbo III serves as my primary dust collection device - moved from machine to machine - in my modest, *little* hobbiest's shop. I am however, since seeing it mentioned here in Knots, seriously considering adding a version of the Dust Deputy.
A 16 gallon Sears "5.5hp" shop vac was relegated to rare back-up use due to its incredibly noisy nature. In fact I usually use it only to clean the Fein's felt filter - or to suck up the dead leaves out of the cellar staircase.
Pete
Speaking of the 735, I had a project that was due and I ran some 4/4 Walnut through the machine and it caught on a knot. I heard this huge bang and the breaker blew just prior to this very loud sound that is hard to describe. All around my shop were pieces of the blade and the housing unit. Apparently when I flipped the blades over to be used I forgot to put one screw back into the bracket that holds them in. This one missing screw caused the bracket to bend and was literally ripped apart by the high rpms produced by the unit. The rest lets just say was a scary mess. See the attached.
Yow! Reminds me to very carefully tighten those screws the next time I take the blades out.
As to how many times you can hone them, I'm not sure, but the set I have in the planer now have been honed 3 times. Since they're reversible, I figure I got my money's worth with 6 fresh edges and it's probably time to buy a new set.
For a lot of woodworkers, being able to use the blades for 6 times until they dull would last a number of years.
The only thing I don't like about this system is the potential for obsolesence. I re-tuned my grandfather's 15" planer from the 1960's for my father, and blades were readily available, perhaps because they're just pieces of thicknessed tool steel with an edge on them.
I wonder the same thing about replacement carbide-insert jointer cutters. The upgrade is pricey, and it'd really stink to do that to my DJ-20 and then not be able to get the inserts in a few years.
The reason they're that expensive is that they're made of high-speed steel and manufactured to very close tolerances - those close tolerances, ironically, are what make them "disposable". If you choose, and your blades are not too badly nicked, you can hone them yourself. I do so, and it doesn't seem to negatively affect the performance in any meaningful way.
My procedure is to flatten the backs carefully on 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper glued to a jointer bed. It's important to use the same number of strokes on each blade (clean any resin off with kerosene or laquer thinner first!), so I count them out.
After polishing the backs, I mount the blade on a jig of MDF so that they can be held flat, horizontal and parallel with the benchtop's surface. I then use a DMT diamond stone hone (their "credit card" model) in the "fine" grit. Again, I use the same number of strokes on all blades so that I don't accidentally hone one narrower than the others. About 10 strokes is required to get them razor sharp. I don't worry about removing nicks, because doing so would alter the blade geometry enough to potentially cause performance issues - I just shift the knives in their mounting slots slightly so that knicks don't show up on the wood surface.
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