I’m a newbie and was wondering if you can help me with a problem I have with a Stanley #5 corrugated plane
that I just bought over the weekend at an old tool swap meet at our local Rockler’s parking lot here in California.
It’s in great shape and paid $25 for it.
When I try to turn the brass knob to make the blade extend past the sole, it’ll hit a point where it’s difficult to turn it even if I remove the lever cap. However if I remove the blade I could still make the knob turn clockwise
before it comes off the bolt. Is this normal with all the planes?
The second question I have is, is it best to loosen the lever cap before I adjust the blade depth or move the lateral adjustment lever?
Thanks for your help.
Les
Replies
Les,
If you look at the way the blade depth adjustment mechanism works you'll see that as the adjustment knob is turned it moves a small lever that goes through the frog and into a rectangular notch in the chip breaker. The chip breaker is bolted onto the top of the blade, so that as the chip breaker moves the blade moves with it. The blade has a slot in it that allows you to adjust the position of the chip breaker on top of the blade.
When it is properly adjusted, the cutting edge of the blade should extend just 1/32" or so past the leading edge of the chip breaker. With the blade and chip breaker alignment is properly adjusted you should be able to fully retract the blade and also advance it so that as much as 1/16" of the blade projects through the sole, which is all the range you need.
If the blade/chip breaker set up seems right and you are still having a problem, it may be that the frog is too far forward and the chip breaker is striking the edge of the slot in the sole before the blade is as far forward as you need. The position of the frog can be adjusted by loosening the bolts that attach it to the main casting.
It is also possible that the plane was assembled from parts from other planes in which case you have problem with the parts not being correct and fitting properly but hopefully that isn't the case.
The lever cap should hold the blade snugly but still allow you to adjust the depth and lateral adjuster without backing it off. The various parts of the mechanism need to be clean and rust and burr free and very lightly lubricated so that everything works smoothly with a minimum of friction.
John White
Thanks for the great tip John.
Les
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled