I have a jack plane from about 1990 that I’m trying to restore – someone at Woodcraft said it looked like a decent plan. Made in USA. When I have everything setup correctly, the plane blade won’t retract all the way – it still sticks out the sole a little. Almost as if the rectangular hole in the chipbreaker is set too high (so the blade and chipbreaker sit too low.) Any ideas? I could buy a new blade and chipbreaker, but want to be sure its worth that investment first, and that the plane itself is not faulty.
Thanks!
Replies
Wihout seeing it I would think the chip breaker is set to high on the blade. Try lowering the chip breaker. Just a guess on my part...
Thanks. I've tried that . . . There's about 1/32" difference . . . .
Another thought. I have a old StanleyBailey No.4 that I like to use with the frog set a little forward than normal. When I adjust the frog forward the blade does not retract all the way (sticks out a 'wee' bit). If I move the frog back it's 'normal' position the blade retracts a bit below the bottom/sole.The plane and blade/chipper are original. When the frog is where the factory set it (has been scriped) the blade edge 'just clears' the bottom/sole when the adjustment knob is at the end of travel. Normal?.. I have no idea but it has always been this way. When I say 'just clears' it JUST CLEARS and no more..
Edited 1/22/2008 3:10 pm by WillGeorge
thanks . . . .
That's exactly what happens with mine. I puzzled over this for a while yesterday - if the blade stays flush with the frog as you move the frog forward and back, it should not retract differently.
Then I realised that it looks like is if I pull the frog back far enough , a small gap opens between the blade and the frog b/c the blade now rests on the mouth at the bottom, and not on the frog. This increases the total distance from the sole to the top of the blade because of the angle that's now opened up . . . so now it would retract. But since the blade is no longer flush with the frog, surely the plane won't work as well?
Three thoughts:
1. Try planing with the frog back. I'd be curious to know if you really find a detectable difference.
2. Buy a replacement blade for LN or Hock.
3. Grind you blade's bevel back 1/32" and resharpen.
Dumb question but you sure your blade isn't inverted?
There are some variations from one plane manufacturer to another regarding the dimensions and locations of the slots and such in the blade and cap iron. I have a Record jack plane that I can't find a replacement blade for, because the slot dimensions aren't the same as the "standard" ones.
It's conceivable that the blade projection in this plane is too great simply because the cap iron came from a different plane.
-Steve
Thanks to all - this has been very helpful.
I'm new to woodworking and based on experiences as a kid (many years ago!) did not like the thought of using a hand plane. However, in search of improving my skills, I pulled out an old plane I bought in 1990, that had lain unused on the shelf. It's been enjoyable getting out the knicks and "restoring" it, but this blade thing has been frustrating since I'm not familiar with all the adjustments. I had to verify this was a flaw in the plane, and not my stupidity. Fortunately it seems like the former . . . . .
Thanks!
What brand of plane is it? What size?
-Steve
No name . . . all it says is "Made in USA". I bought it at a local True Value hardware store. Blade and cap iron look cheap - they're very thin compared with the Hock and Lie-Nielsen I saw in the local Woodcraft store.
Well, that may be the problem right there. The person who laid out the design for punching out the cap iron blanks wasn't talking to the person who laid out the design for punching out the blade blanks that day.
-Steve
Blade retraction problems are almost always due to the wrong length chipbreaker being fitted. Often they got changed in the past, and there was variation in production standards.
By length, I mean distance from front edge of C/B to the slot which fits the Y lever.
Many plane blade and c/b makers will know of this problem and be able to supply a special length if you specify size.
best wishes,
David
NEVER BUY CHEAP TOOLS. You will pay in the long run with bad craftmanship, and perhaps some very bad cuts on your hands.
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