What is the usual technique for cutting a “Pie Crust” table?
Or, if their isn’t a “usual” technique, how do you do this?
Thanks.
What is the usual technique for cutting a “Pie Crust” table?
Or, if their isn’t a “usual” technique, how do you do this?
Thanks.
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialGet instant access to over 100 digital plans available only to UNLIMITED members. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building!
Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more.
Get complete site access to video workshops, digital plans library, online archive, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
Corners,
I the period the tops were dished on a large lathe, and then the edge was carved. This is far beyond the capacity of my lathe, so I used a router to remove the bulk of the waste and then carve the edge. When using the router there is two ways to go about it. First you can leave bridges that will support the router as you work, and these are chiseled off after routing. Second you can start in the center and work your way out , and then add a block equal to the routing depth, to your routers base. Either way this makes the largest messy you have ever seen.
Despite its apparent difficulty, the edge is quite easy to carve, so there is no need to look to jigs and routers to rough it out. The router is helpful in producing the curved underside of the edge, but you will still have to do a considerable amount of hand filing.
There is an article in Fine Woodworking by Eugene Landon and one by David Pine, that will be useful. Also thereis a book by Heller and Clarkson, that is excellent, except for their finishing. I believe my pie crust tea table is still in the gallery section on this site.
Rob Millard
To Rob and Ken,
Thanks for your responce - this has headed me in the right direction. I found the pictures of Rob's table in the Gallery - great workmanship!
I'm researching many woodworking details with the idea of using these in projects other than those where they are traditionally used. For example the pie crust table - I am thinking of using this technique in making a picture frame by changing the shape from round to rectangle and hanging it on the wall with a suitable piece of period art. The pie crust edge may have to be carved on both the outside and inside edges of the frame.
So often I look at pictures in FWW and other sources and wonder what techniques were used to get the final results - thanks to this forum I can get some of the answers.
Thanks again, John
Ron, I found the picture of your table. One word. OUTSTANDING
In my senior year of high school, '71-'72, I built two piecrust tables in woodworking class. I had no experience carving so an older friend of mine offered to teach me carving if I did the actual construction of the tables. I made the tables and he taught me to carve as each step necessitated. We wound up with two beautiful tables, though, his carving was a bit more refined than mine! My point here is that I was 18 years old, its not that difficult. It will be an enjoyable project for you as an experienced woodworker. One last remark, we had a large Powermatic lathe. I turned the tops (30") on the outboard faceplate. Yeah, everyone else stayed a safe distance away.
Get a copy of FINE FURNITURE FOR THE AMATEUR CABINETMAKER by A.W. Marlow. In this book are the detailed instructions for a VERY fine piecrust table. Good luck, Ken
Ken, before I try this I though I'd run it past someone who's done it. I have a delta 14" lathe (I believe it weighs 400 lbs) that I promise I will bolt to the floor. Would that be sufficient to turn the table? Also promise to run at the slowest speed and add sandbags if you think its required.
Thanks
Jeff
Edited 2/8/2004 11:06:06 AM ET by jeff
Jeff, I think the 400# lathe is heavy enough, but will it go slowly enough. The largest diameter that I have turned was 23", and I used a secondary shaft to get a low spead. I would also suggest a heavy pedistal for the tool rest. I used Delta's cast iron tripod which weighs about 40#. If I did it again I would lay sand bags on the legs.
Tom
Owners manual says 450 to 2600. Is the 450 a bit too fast? If so, how do I slow it down more?
450 rpm is way too fast.
What speed should I use and how do I slow it down more?
I have a Delta lathe I bought in 1973. It doesn't weigh 400 lbs, but I'm talking about the machine without a stand/motor. It's mounted to a butcher style laminated top made from plain 'ol 2x4s. The top is about 85" long x 24" deep and mounted on a wood cabinet base I built. The motor is set up on a large hinge to provide tension and allow easy speed changing. I doubt the whole arrangement weighs 300 lbs.
I've got the head end of the bench top fastened securely to an upright steel beam in my basement. I wouldn't hesitate to turn a 30" x 1" top. I do think the sandbags are a good idea. Ken
My bad, the assembled lathe is 300 lbs.
Ken,
Found the book and it's on the way,
Thanks, John
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled