I am contemplating making some picture frames, but have never done any seriously. I understand that getting these right takes more skill and knowhow than might be assumed for such a “simple” project. So, I have a few questions that might help me avoid some grief. Rather than posting several questions under different topics, I figured I could lump them all together here.
I tend to use a combination of power and hand tools in my work and have most of the basics. Are there any specialty tools that you would recommend specifically for picture framing?
Any picture framing books or articles that are good for an experienced, non-expert woodworker?
Your best three (or so) tips for building picture frames?
Thanks,
Scotty
Replies
Top Three Tips:
1. get the miters to be exactly 45.00° (TS and miter saw accuracy can vary - a 45° shooting board may be handy)
2. be sure the opposing pieces are exactly the same length (shooting board comes in handy here, too)
3. remember to reference measurements from the inside of the picture-holding rabbet. It's really frustrating to discover, after glue-up, that the frame is too small or too large for the intended picture.
Ralph,
Thank you. Will do.
Top Three Tips:
1. get the miters to be exactly 45.00° (TS and miter saw accuracy can vary - a 45° shooting board may be handy)
2. be sure the opposing pieces are exactly the same length (shooting board comes in handy here, too)
3. remember to reference measurements from the inside of the picture-holding rabbet. It's really frustrating to discover, after glue-up, that the frame is too small or too large for the intended picture.
Scott_y
Ralph's rules are pretty good. Are you planning to cut mats and glass too? That adds a whole level of new tools and skills.
What I found is that it is not cost-effective if the thing you're framing is a standard size. Ready-made frames are too cheap.
I have a miter trimmer, which I find easier, faster and more accurate than a shooting board and plane. Others disagree, but if you're going to do a lot or several quickly, take a look.
Several books you can find just about anywhere that are comprehensive.
My tips:
Lacquer or shellac in a spray can is simplist way to finish.
Straight grain wood is best to not distract from the artwork.
If you are routing your own profiles, make as much extra length as you can, so you don't have to try and duplicate to match. I find it very difficult to maintain a consistent routed edge in long pieces, and sometimes only a portion is usable, so you need extra
Stan,
Thanks,
Thanks. I'll look into the miter trimmer. I won't be cutting my own glass, but probably will do some of my own mats. I took an art class way back in college days and I learned how to do that.
Scott,
You are asking a question that the answer requires a book. Could be several books. And there are a lot of books, and courses on picture framing.
Cutting the miters is relatively simple -- IF, IF, IF you know where to measure, and have an accurate way to do it, repeatedly. I use a $5,000 saw to cut frames. It is designed to do one thing - cut miters at 45.0 degrees and to the exact length within thousands of an inch. (I used to make about 10,000 frames a year.)
But, you can also do that with a special Stanley picture frame miter saw from 50 to a hundred years ago that might cost $100 to $200 on ebay - IF all the parts are there. (I started making frames 50 years ago with one of those. Still have it. But, it takes a lot more time, relatively speaking.)
And, you can also do that on a table or miter saw -- IF you have a way measuring exactly where on the rabbet you need to cut. The other two saws are designed to do exactly that quickly and repeatedly.
Then, you have lots of options as to how you are going to join them. That's a book.
My suggestion is find a book, take a class, find a video, find someone who will teach you, etc. The magic of making the frame look good is in knowing all sorts of more information. And that's a few more books, courses, etc.
Alan - planesaw
Scotty,
There have been a number of picture framing threads that may hold stuff to interest you; and maybe they will even answer your question:
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=7112.25
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=30305.1
http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=20011.1
Lataxe
>within thousandths of an inch<
. . . not just me obsessed with these then ?
Not saying how to get ahold of these but here are some old magazine articles:
American Woodworker August 2001 p48 = Tips . . . Picture Frames . . like a pro . . Simple tools.
FWW Master The Miter
https://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuidePDF.aspx?id=2735
Watercolor Magic magazine Autumn 2000 p52 = The Perfect Frame Job
Woodwork magazine August 1997 p49 = Making a Furniture-Quality Picture Frame
Also a good set of these, if you haven't already, if shooting by hand (see pics)
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 5/3/2009 5:07 pm by roc
Edited 5/3/2009 6:36 pm by roc
I have done this professionally and I am a fan of cross-nailed corners. If done well with the special tiny head brads made for picture framers and then waxed these joints are very strong quick and simple. The joints should also be glued (just carpenter's glue is fine). Brads should be pre-drilled and a very nearly essential tool is a good miter vise. I always made my drills by hardening the tip of a brad.
here's a link to one vise of the proper type. They can vary in quality it used to be that the Stanley's were the real thing but now there are so many makers I cannot say which are good and which may not be:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1628
>essential tool is a good miter viseBig,I was just looking at those a few nights ago. For the millionth time. One of these days I am going to order one. Do you recommend the adjustable one or is it better to get the fixed angle one ? I am just worried the adjustable one may slip out of alignment when installing the nails. Also it seems like I read somewhere that it is only useful if you have more than one.As you can tell I don't have allot of experience with picture framing. What do you recommend.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
Edited 5/5/2009 12:26 am by roc
FWIW, I have an old set of Stanley (fixed-angle) clamps. To me, the adjustable clamps would only be useful if you were making abstract, non-square frames. The quantity of clamps needed depends on how "efficient" one wishes to be in the process, I'd say. Positioning and alignment of all four corners, however, can be an issue, since the clamps really want to be attached to some sort of base. I'd assume that people who do this frequently have an adjustable assembly table that allows the clamps to be positioned and aligned with some precision (e.g. with T-tracks or something similar).
Mine are all of the adjustable type. I have not had trouble with them slipping out but I have rarely used the adjustable feature. The adjustable feature only comes into play on large stiff frames which have a bit of warp to deal with... in such cases it is nice to have 4 of them and mounted on portable bases so that one can be set up at each corner... this is a rare situation. I made thousands of frames with just one and set in only one position ( I did have a special table that I built with a dropped corner for the vise so that the frames were about a half inch above the table top when clamped... this way I could shim under the longer or heavier ones with a space block). I did also have the advantage of manufacturing my own line of moldings and I was obsessive about keeping the wood straight so I had minor warping problems to deal with most of the time. I hope this helps you.
RalphBarker and bigfootnampa,Yes that helps.Thanks to you both !rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
I'd recommend poking around United Manufacturer's web site, http://www.unitedmfrscatalog.com/index.cfm
They have all the materials, tools, books, and supplies you'll need.
As long as your package fits, having opposite sides the *same* length is more important than *exactly* the right length.
Be aware that the picture framing community, for the most part, is a very closed society. It's like every framing shop in town thinks that you are going to steal all their business. Most of the pro suppliers won't deal with you unless you have a store-front and do $25K business with them a year. UMS is the exception to this.
I have found that is you are making your own frame stock, I get better results assembling the frame and then finishing. If you are using pre-made frame stock, you don't have this option.
The basic tools:
- Miter vise for assembly
- Miter box, miter saw, or sliding table saw miter jig
- Mat cutter, if you are cutting your own mat board, otherwise have a framing shop custom cut them.
- Glass cutter and straight edge if you are cutting your own glass. Cut it 1/8" shorter in both directions in case there is any out of square. Otherwise, build the frame, take it to the glass shop and have them cut-to-fit
- Point setter, if you are doing a lot and want to speed up your work
- ATG gun for setting dust covers, or simply peel and stick.
Other than that, razor blades, tape measure, drill, hammer and brads.
Consider half-lap joinery instead of miter. Way, way stronger and a little easier--no need for extra reinforcement beyond the glue joint. Technichally it looks more like a door frame than a picure frame, so you'll have to wrap you aesthetic around that. This is assuming you aren't using molding to make frames but more like strait, beautiful stock.
Brian
I use overlapping half-lap joints to make frames. Much, much easier than miters, there's a whole ton of slack there compared to what mitered joints get you.
I make a lot of frames from scratch. After making and sanding the moulding to 120 grit, I rough cut on the bandsaw and then clean up the miter cuts on a lion trimmer. Accurate, and the trimmer leaves a surface that loves glue. I glue up and clamp with a band clamp made by MLCS that has a steel strap and swivelly pads at the corners. Nail or screw the next day when the joints are good and dry. I have made frames up to 65 by 75 inches like this.After nailing, I use the random orbit sander to work the corners flat and go over the whole thing one more time. I usually finish with paste wax after hand sanding to 400 grit. Oooh, like butter, that surface.Hardest part for me is getting all the junk out of the package before sealing up, but we have a bunch of cats . . .
Scott,
I do frames for a particular type of art we buy which are all the same size.
Simple oak frames, Mitered corners and a wedge at each corner, usually of contrasting wood, at each corner. The slot made with a bisquit cutter.
I have the matting and glass done professionally because I have never been successful cutting glass.
ASK
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