Greetings fellow wood workers, Iam starting a commission that will eventually become a stero cabinet. Function will proceed form. The carcase, shelves and dividers will all be of paulownia. My first concern is demensional thickness and this woods holding ability for the hardware that will fasten either 3/4 or full extension drawer slides and if side or bottom mounting is preferable. also, the client would like to keep the finish light, so Iam contemplating something like Deft danish oil/ureathne for a coating. having never worked with this wood any and all insight would be appreciated. as this project begins to take shape i hope to take advantage of this fine web-site to garnish more insight from all the good folks that use it.
Thanks to all – bufun
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Replies
Taunton published a book entitled "Wood" in 1995, ISBN 1-56158-099-6. Therein you will find an article about paulownia. Maybe it tells what you want to know.
Cadiddlehopper
I've seen some pieces. It was very light, and dented pretty easily with my thumbnail -- kinda like redwood or cedar. I know the Japanese prize it, but it seemed to me that it wouldn't make particularly durable furniture.
bufun,
I have worked only a little paulownia. It was a tree that my son sawed as part of his curriculum at forestry school. The tree grew in S/W Va, and judging by the growth rings, it grew pretty quickly. The rings are at least 1/2" wide. The wood is very soft, softer than eastern white pine. It was a challenge to cut end grain cleanly with hand tools, as the fibers are so weak they want to crush out of the way of all but the sharpest edge, used with a slicing action.
It machined well, and hand planed well. Carved easily, of course, but it took great care to preserve any detail, as it was almost crumbly due to its softness and open pored grain.
I'd be cautious about screws' long term holding ability especially if under load, but drilling pilot holes shouldn't be an issue! I'd err on the side of thickness, and try to keep things short, when it comes to weight support, although my experience does not include using it for shelves. It is very stable dimensionally, and hardly moved in drying from dead green to bone dry. (Incidentally, the green, wet wood smelled like dill pickles.)
It is very pretty wood, similar in appearance to sassafras, chestnut, or maybe ash. Broad, open grain with a wide face grain figure, rather plain edge grain. The stuff I have has a subdued broad curl, I have no clue if this is common or not. You will need to be careful in handling it in the shop, as laying a board down on a table top covered with chips will surely print it, as will dragging the edge across the corner of the table saw, or letting the pencil behind your ear drop point down while you are sanding (don't ask how I know this).
Well as Forrest says, That's all I have to say about that. Hope it is helpful.
Ray Pine
Fellow wood addicts, this message is on joiners tab but directed to all who were good enough to take the time to share thier experiences with paulownia. Bottom line is its too soft for what I intend to fabricate. It is a highly prized wood in Japan & is part of thier culture going way back, from what I understand when a daughter is born her father plants the tree and at her wedding the wood from the tree is utilzed as a gift. What happened to bring the tree here in USA was that in the late 1800's its seeds were used as packing for frieght(like todays dreaded styrofoam balls) and escaped at the railheads and flourished. In the 1950's some Japanese were here and had thier minds blown by the size of some of the timber( there a stories of $20,000 saw logs) Hence, as was seen by our freind from Tennessee you will get trees rustled. However, the Asian market collapsed in general and if anyone has a connection with highend buyers it is dark and scary much like an asian connection with the nefarious trade in bear parts. The university of Kentucky is pushing this tree on reclaimed tobacco plantations and I assume its fast growth is being used in a high volume low profit manufaturing enviorment. I want to thank everyone for thier input, having access to this site has been so very helpfull and I hope this finds everyone in good workings. Thanks Again to All
I cut down a Paulownia tree in our garden about 8 months ago and saved the trunk for future use. The wood dries very fast and is unusually stable - minimal checking, etc. I shaped a few boards and was amazed at its lightness - like balsa wood. I cannot imagine building furniture with it - just too light and fragile. I will make a few boxes.
The other feature is that the trees are fast growing. In our garden it took over and killed the sunlight (which is why it went). What is amazing is how difficult it is to kill. Some of the logs started to sprout branches months after the tree was cut down!
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derek, is this the tree with giant leaves we call elephant ears?
mike
Mike
The tree has many names, just not sure of "elephant ears". It does have broad, large leaves.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Derekcohen, I agree after research and e-mails from good folks such as yourself that its too soft for a stero cabinet. In Japan its used for furniture and withtime I will do a little rooting around to get an idea of what are Japanese friends fabricate. Thanks again
Bufun
This tree, "Paulownia tomentosa", common name "Princess Tree", or "Empress Tree", is termed "Kiri" in Japan. It does have "elephant ear" shaped leaves and is a very fast-growing tree. It is commonly used for drawer panels, carcase dividers, entire clothing cabinets ("tansu"), and is the common wood used to make gift boxes. If you buy a high-end Japanese plane, it will likely come in a box made of Kiri. To plane it cleanly requires very sharp and low-angled planes - 22-23˚ bedding angle is specifically recomended. It's virtues are light weight, and great dimensional stability.
I'm not sure what the attraction to paulonia is, but in TN "rustlers" cut them down and steal them. Must be pretty valuable.
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