I’d like to construct 5/8 inch thick Melamine- Coated Particle board base and wall cabinets in my garage for general & tool storage. Can I use 5/8″ Melamine for the back, top, bottom and sides and for the wall cabinet, what’s the best way to fasten the sides to the back of the cabinet so that it can be supported by the wall mount. Should I glue and dado the back in or should I fasten it with particle board screws. Additionally, if I wanted to mount it on the wall using a cleat, how should I fasten the cleat to the cabinet?
Is it better to use heat or adhesive edge banding for the cut face?
Finally, is there a book on making cabinet out of particle board? I have many on plywood and wood, but not particle board.
Replies
Rudy- I would use 3/4 melemine if available. The top is usually doubled up around the edges (a 4 inch wide "build up" is glued and stapled to the bottom all the way around, flush trimmed to the main top and then a wood edge glued to the front and side edges- to yield a 1 1/2" thick looking top.)
the back I would dado into the sides. I usually hang cabinets with a French cleat (also seen it called a "gravity bar") - basically a piece with one edge ripped at 45 degrees- one piece fastened to the wall with the 45 degree up- the other piece fastened to the cabinet 45 degree down- it makes hanging them so much easier- and easy to move if you want. Make sure that the cleat fastened to the back is wide enough that you can spread the load of the cabinet around- I would glue it to the cabinet back- and then use screws from the inside of the cabinet into the cleat.
Even if you don't use the cleat I would still dado it in to the sides instead of rabbetting it- the dado is so much stronger.
My experience with edge tapes is that the iron on is better than the adhesive press on type. Wood edge glued on is best!
Don't know of particle board books- - FWW probably has some articles - check with Matt Berger on that one.
Let me know how you make out
Bob Van Dyke
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