I’m trying to decide which overhead guard to buy for my Jet left tilt tablesaw. It has full extensions and sits on a mobile base. I’ve seen a couple reviews for Excaliber on another forum and saw Forestgirl’s pix of her Penn State set-up. Was also at International Tool yesterday and saw the Exactor which looked clumsy/crued and seemed very heavy (perhaps they didn’t have it set-up/displayed well since I couldn’t move it around on the saw they had it on. It was also $450).
I’m sure there must have been numerous previous posts/discussion here on knots or reviews done in FWW. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Comments on your experience with specific overhead guards would be helpful in trying to decide on one. Thanks.
Bruce
Replies
a lot of comments are scattered around as well as several whole threads. Do a search on some of the names of the guards, i.e., Brett Guard, Excalibur, PSI or Penn State, etc....
Thanks. Will do.
I put some Uniguards on some older saws. They are easy to position. The cover is split. You can lift one side when working close to the fence. This is a good feature. Another is that the guard easily flips up and out of the way when changing blades or setting up. It's easy to remove or replace the guard when needed. You also have the option of mounting your switch up there.
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-34-976-Deluxe-Uniguard-Table/dp/B0000223C8
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks. Will check it out further. Not sure if the arm can be extended long enough to fit the full extensions that came with my Jet saw. It looks like it would mount under the extension which on my saw is 3/4". Would have to beef it up underneath. Like the features and hadn't realized Delta had this. Appreciate the feedback.
The Delta guard mounts directly to the saw with heavy pipe style brackets, not to the extension table. They are available in 30" and 50" fence models. There is also a lot of extra reach so it will fit most any configuration.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks, Hammer. Doesn't seem that the Delta overarm has dust collection options which I kind of like but does have a lift up option to get it out of the way. Brett overarm seems to provide both. Any one have experience with the Brett guard? I'[ll try a separate post. Thanks.
Bruce, while I really like my Penn State guard, if it had fit in my budget, the Uniguard would have been something to think about. The ability to move half the guard up when moving the blade close to the fence would be verrrrrrrryyyyy nice. The Penn State guard is pretty wide, so it's not uncommon to have to lift it up, or attach an L-shaped fence that provides some distance from the main fence.
I'm not seeing dust collection in the Uniguard though? Wonder if there's a fitting there somewhere......
Good point F.G.
I think being able to lift the guard part way as you describe would be a big plus. I'll check the Uniguard more closely re: dust collection since its a priority in my selection decision. I believe the Brett Guard has that feature also with dust collection so will take another look at that also. Too bad the Excaliber doesn't have the partial lift feature and has to be moved totally out of the way (while not ideal vs. partial, it's maybe not a big deal). Thanks for your input and that of others. Helps a great deal.
Has anyone used the Brett system?
Bruce
"Bruce, while I really like my Penn State guard, if it had fit in my budget, the Uniguard would have been something to think about. The ability to move half the guard up when moving the blade close to the fence would be verrrrrrrryyyyy nice. The Penn State guard is pretty wide, so it's not uncommon to have to lift it up, or attach an L-shaped fence that provides some distance from the main fence.
I'm not seeing dust collection in the Uniguard though? Wonder if there's a fitting there somewhere......
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) "
I second your thought! I like my Penn State, but I too when doing some cuts have to move it up out of the way. I'm extra carefull, but that feature you mention would be nice. I seem to notice it the most when I'm using the incra 1000se and crosscutting 90's
Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Moving the guard up an inch or so when crosscutting with the Inca doesn't concern me so much, crosscutting isn't the high-risk activity, and my hand is firmly anchored when I'm using the Incra. And the guard is low engouh, it'd be pretty darned hard to slip my hand under it. It's when I have to rip something and I can't get the push-stick between the guard and the fence, having to move it all the way up and out of the way that I wish there were another (easy) option.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
forrestgirl,
It's when I have to rip something and I can't get the push-stick between the guard and the fence
If the piece is that narrow I wouldn't be trying to rip it in the first place, too risky. I'd use a wider board and place the widest part next to the fence such that the cutoff is the piece I'm trying to make.
I do this for the specific reason that you state is a problem, i.e. can't use the bladeguard. Am I missing something or doing it wrong?
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I'll have to go out and measure to give you a specific idea of what I'm describing, but it isn't that the piece is all that narrow. The guard is pretty wide, my push-stick could probably be re-designed. Will get you better idea later tonight.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Not to butt in, and perhaps I don't understand what you all are discussing, but I find the BenchDog stick pictured here:
http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-025-Push-Loc-Docking/dp/B000FW3VQ8
to allow me to have a very narrow space between my fence and Brett Guard box if I want to. The stick is like 1/4" but gives great control.
I can see where that gizmo would work well with the Brett guard. Might work OK with the Penn State too, I'd have to take another look (haven't spent much time in the shop for quite awhile). One thing, though. I pretty much stay away from plastic around saw blades, especially any type that's prone to shatter. I'd much rather spend the time to make a wooden push-stick, whatever the configuration.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"I have to rip something and I can't get the push-stick between the guard and the fence, having to move it all the way up and out of the way that I wish there were another (easy) option. "
This is when I like the GRIPP'r. I have two of them, and I know they are not cheap, but they apply evenly downward pressure on both sides of the blades holding the material down. With two you can just walk it through with ease, and your hands are high above the blades.
http://www.microjig.com/
Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Hi bones, Just saw your post after posting about the Grr-Ripper system myself. I've seen the videos but am still missing something. How is it used on wide boards when the rip is down the center. Doesn't the Gripper have to be against the fence? I know I'm going to be feeling really stupid when it's explained to me.
So...worth every penny? Also thinking of getting the MJ splitter...any experience with it?
Thanks, Brian
The Gripper does not have to be used against a fence. I use them on the router table, shaper and jointer and very seldom are they against the fences.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
"...I wish there were another (easy) option."
Bandsaw
-Steve
Since you have experience with the Penn State could you give me any insight as to whether on not you would see any problem mounting it from the ceiling. The instructions from Penn State offer it as an option.
ASK
It's been awhile since I looked over the directions for a ceiling mount, but when I bought it that was a close 2nd place for mounting in my shop. I didn't see any problems on the horizon. Someone here stated that they had their's mounted to the ceiling, IIRC. Might have been in a different thread.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
No, it was in this thread. read it after I asked you the question.
Thanks
ASK
"Since you have experience with the Penn State could you give me any insight as to whether on not you would see any problem mounting it from the ceiling. The instructions from Penn State offer it as an option.
ASK"
I have the Penn state currently mounted to my ceiling. In my previous house I had it mounted to the floor and TS end extending over the blade. You get all the parts to do it either way. If I get the chance I'll take a pic tonight for you. It works fine either way! Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
thanks,
I have ±4.5' above the table saw to the bottom of the joist. Should be enough, right?
ASK
Are you saying you have an 8' ceiling? If so, I would think that's ok. I'll measure tonight! The way the mast is made, you could cut off the mast and put the T at most heights. The problem is more if you have a very high ceiling! I will say this thing is heavy. I mounted a wood block across two joists and then lagged the mast to that. Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Almost 8'. If the mast can be cut I should be OK though.
Now I have to take the plunge and order it.
Thanks
ASK
I'll take some measurements and let you know. Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Ok, I checked tonight and I have a 9'3" ceiling. The device has a three part vertical mast assembly. Part I attaches to the ceiling. Part two slides over Part I, and part III is a T that attaches to that. Fully assembled it is 18.5" above the saw top. This allows plenty of room to lower the guard and raise it out of the way. The mast piece I called part II could slide up another 1' with no issue. If you need to shorten it even more you could cut the bottom of part II and bring it even lower, but I don't think you would need to. Like I said I've had it both ways and they both work equally well, but the overhead setup looks a little neater, but required more piping to the dust collector. One advantage is I bought a magnetic light that plugs into an overhead outlet and I can shine light down on my saw and flip it around to the other side and it shines down on my workbench that I use as the outfeed table to my saw. If you have any other questions let me know.
Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Edited 2/7/2008 8:29 pm by bones
Bones,
Thanks, just the information I needed. Looks like I can make it work.
I wish I had 9'3" ceilings.
ASK
"I wish I had 9'3" ceilings."
Until you have to heat it! Seriously, good luck on the decision. I did not mention my only dig against the Penn gaurd. The clear plastic part of the gard is not the greatest. It's pretty thin. I thought it would be beefier. In the end it did not matter. The point is to keep your fingers away and some dust pick up. It does both (dust pick up depend on your DC). Good luck.Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Looks like it would be best as a floor mount vs. mobile so will look at others. Thanks for the response.
My guard is a Penn State, among the few designed to be ceiling mounted. While the fit and finish is not as good as my old Biesmeyer Guard was, it serves the two purposes I need quite well: Dust collection and hand safety. It's easy to assemble and use, and was mounted on the ceiling by me, alone. Heavy duty lag bolts into the joists, and it's pretty solid. They include some diagnol straps that do a fine job of bracing it. It's also the cheapest priced on the market. BTW, the dust pickup is 4", on my old Bies, it was 2", and since it goes into my cyclone, bigger is indeed better.
Just to prevent any confusion, the Penn State guard may be celing mounted as an option. In other words, either machine mounted or ceiling mounted.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I never use a blade guard for protection, neither of my saws had them and I just trained myself to be very aware of that blade. I would like to improve the dust collection on my old Unisaw and the only way to do that is over the top of the blade.
I like the concept of the ceiling mount as my saw is PERMANENTLY mounted to the floor and it would seem easier to incorporate DC in that configuration. I don't think I need 4" DC at that point; 2" will probably be sufficient. I don't get a lot of dust but what does occur is tossed high above the table and is therefore a nuisance. I have seen plans/diagrams on shop made set-ups like this and may try my hand once this project bubbles up to an A or B priority (maybe later LOL).
Thanks for your post, you reminded me of something I want to do and probably steered me in a general direction I will be happy with in the long run.
Regards,
Mack
"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Edited 1/31/2008 6:45 pm ET by Mackwood
I was at the Anderson Ranch last year--they have a wonderful setup. They have Sawstop saws now, and no guard. I disagree with that. The guard is helpful, and not just because it only takes one mistake with a hand, or maybe a poorly brazed carbide tip. Plus, ripping without dust collection is terrible, no matter how powerful your DC is. There is only so much air that goes into the cabinet to get the dust out. The guard is different, and I found the 4" duct is much better than the old 2" one that went to my vac.
Old School, guy, are ya Mack? I see you're in your 50's. Hope you make it to 70 or so before any need for an oxygen bottle sets in. Really hope you don't have some freak kickback accident or other mishap that would make you regret your decision to abandon the blade guard.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"I have to rip something and I can't get the push-stick between the guard and the fence, having to move it all the way up and out of the way that I wish there were another (easy) option. "
I second the GRR-Ripper! Best piece of equipment in my shop. I routinely rip 1/4" wide strips on my table saw with complete confidence. I have found dozens of other ways to use it to make operations safer and more accurate. I would not be without at least one in my shop.
Bob, Tupper Lake, NY
I wouldn't recommend my lack of a guard on my table saws to anyone but:
1. I really don't think that in my situation my non-guard presents any lung issues.
2. I am very carefull with my exposed blade. I don't do production so I'm never in a hurry; always shut down the power tools when the second beer is opened and never work when I'm tired. These habits statistically will avoid a VAST majority of table saw mishaps.
3. I have a very nice splitter which I use religiously when ripping making kickback very unlikely.
4. I've worked with most of the same tools for years and only had one minor injury; that due to a kickback on my radial arm saw. It was fully guarded and I at least partially attribute the mishap to the fact that I could not SEE the cutting edges.
5. I do cardio, work out and eat a pretty decent diet so I expect to be in my shop well into my 80's with no auxiliary oxygen.
Nice hearing from you though, I recall the ox yoke in your shop; still got it?
Regards,
Mack
"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Edited 2/6/2008 11:08 pm ET by Mackwood
"I recall the ox yoke in your shop; still got it?" Holy Cow, that was eons ago!! Like before my shop was a shop, even. Hmmmmmm, I dunno whether it's still around or not. It was my husband's probably, and he has 3 (three) storage units, so it could be in one of them. I try not to think about those things, lest I lose my temper, LOL.
Re: the dust issues, just remember, it's the stuff you can't see that hurts you the most. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"eons ago" well, a few years any way.
The dust collection factor, as I stated originally, is my only reason for thinking about the overhead guard. I have what I consider a reasonably good DC and it does a good job at the table saws but ripping always generates a bit of dust over the top. Most of the really fine stuff is drawn down and out but the small chips with a bit more mass seem to overcome the vacuum and "escape" to the to of the saw.
So your spousal unit is a pack rat! Just be glad he does't want to keep all that stuff in the shop!!! LOL Be patient; some of the JUNQUE may become extremely valuable ANTI-QUES!
Regards,
Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Daryl: Sounds like the PSI worked well for you..especially with the ceiling mount. I can't do a ceiling mount since my shop is in the garage and everything needs to be mobile. Thanks for the feedback.
Bruce,
I too own the Uniguard. I tried to rig it up for dust collection at the guard with only minimal success. I finally threw in the towel and now just depend on my dust collector through the cabinet of the saw. I wish it had an above table dust collection feature. But I will say that I am very pleased with the operation and fit and finish of the product including the electrical switch placement option which I have utilized.
Ray
REH: From what I've gathered, each overhead guard has its own features which work well for others but miss feature wanted by others. Like everything, I guess there are trade-offs. Thanks for the input.
Re dust collection, I have the Excalibur hooked up to my Delta two bag dust collector. I am always surprised by the amount of dust that flies out from under the saw guard when I'm cutting close to the edge of a board or panel, leaving half of the guard suspended about 3/4" above the saw table - It seems that kinetic energy from the blade overcomes vacuum energy a lot of the time.
When I'm cutting down a board or panel that allows the guard to completely rest on the work, it works much better.
Mike D
Brett Guard was the one I chose. It has an option to lock into place and swing out very easy. I replaced the Delta Unisaw guard, the one with the tool rack on top. Penn State looked like another option, but I teach at a public school and this was the most security in safety. Easy to use and makes me feel more at ease when the new students use it. I wish I had the funds for the SawStop.
Cons: The manual is a very horrible reprint. The company has a very, very lousy support staff. I called about mounting questions. One person says one thing and another person says another. Brett Guard needs a .pdf manual and maybe a F.A.Q. section.
Also there are some engineering changes I would have made, but maybe that is for my needs.
Overall I would buy it again and highly recommend the Brett Guard.
Now looking at a sliding table to go with it.
tman: THanks for your comments. I'm leaning toward the Brett.
Bruce
Today I just rec'd a Shark Guard. I reviewed many opinions here and on Sawmillcreek before placing order (Long wait though - ordered in Oct).
I expect to install mid-Feb (sleeting now, but expected to clear tonite, chipping w/ new Salsco chipper this weekend).
I'm also a huge fan of Shark Guard. I've had one for about a year on my Shop Fox cab saw. I got the little quick release lever, so I can remove the splitter in under a second. It is a slick system, especially for the price. It's really nice to be able to rip sheets of plywood without any (hardly any) dust. I don't usually work with mdf, but it actually works even better for that. David B
Hi David,
Can you or anyone for that matter, point me to pricing info. for the Shark Guard? Maybe I'm WEBsite challenged but I couldn't find any pricing.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob, I ordered one yesterday. I Googled the SharkGuard site and that tried several of the internal links. One had a "package price" for the Delta Unisaw. With the "8.4" upgrade and the pawls the total price came to $156.00.I would have liked to go with the Brett but couldn't figure out how to mount it with my complex outfeed table and router setup.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Frosty,
I must be braindead today. I'm on the LeeWay WEBsite: http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.php and I don't see any packages. Did you find it on another site per chance?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I went to the http://www.leestyron.com site; then selected the light blue, "Delta Unisaw" from the list. This led me to "http://www.leestyron.com/sharkunisaw.php". The pricing was two or three 'page-down' clicks.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
DUH!
I shall go directly to the woodshop, grab Frosty and bonk myself on the head. I'm sure that will help.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
It's OK, Homer. I understand. It's pretty cold out there - and still early in the morning.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
I think Bob needs a donut.
Maybe a whole box.
-Steve
Steve & frosty,
I'm not sure what is ailing me. I became a tea totler earlier this week so I'll blame it on that I guess. :-)
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Too much blood in your alcohol system I think they call it!
Hi Bob
I couldn't find it on the site, but there was a great video from the guys at Shark Guard awhile back. It showed them driving over a Shark Guard with an old pickup truck. The guard didn't get damaged because of it's lexan body. Pretty cool. I don't know how often somebody is likely to run over their tablesaw guard, but it does show how tough they are.
David B
"I don't know how often somebody is likely to run over their tablesaw guard, but it does show how tough they are." One of the guys over at WWA had his house fall into his (basement) shop a couple years ago, during a tornado or hurricane, or some such thing. That is why you test 'em by running over 'em with a truck!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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