I’ve decided to try my hand at something different ( for me anyway). I’ve had good success building a bed, buffet, several entertainment centers and a kitchen full of cabinets. My wife would like a new coffee table and she showed me a picture of how she wants it to look. The attached picture tells the story. I have never done anything with curves and am wondering how to go about making the top. Initially I thought about a solid lumber top and cutting the curve on my bandsaw. But wont the end grain disrupt the finish? I could always resaw thin strips and bend them around a ply tabletop. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have not decided on the wood yet so if a species would lend itself to good finishing for the curves, I’m all ears.
Thanks,
Ryan
Replies
Hi Norm
all your ideas will work. plywood with edge banding would be the cheapest way to make this table, although I think a solid (perhaps cherry) would be much nicer,
the question on the end grain, isnt all that hard to fix, sand the end grain down to around 400 grit, then seal the end grain with a coat of shellac or sanding sealer, then stain the hole table, the sealed end grain will not soak up the stain,but will leave a nice uniformed coat that should match your top. (and if you are using cherry wood the sealing of the hole table will also keep the hole table uniformed in the color with out running into those uneven color problems.
Good luck on your table.
Norm,
For me, the biggest problem would be cutting the oval itself!
Norm,
Another option is a steam-bent and laminated solid wood border in either the same wood as the top or a contrasting wood.
Doug
My suggestion is to pattern route the top. To do this you need to make a pattern typically out of 1/4" plywood or MDF, and if you do it right, only for one half of the top. Lay out the ellipse on the plywood, use a bandsaw to cut close to the edge of the ellipse, and sand the edges to get to the final shape. Depending on the thickness of the table top, you can either use a pattern bit ( pattern goes on the top of the table), or a laminate bit (pattern goes on the bottom of the table) to route the shape. I use carpet tape to hold the pattern, but most any good double sticky back tape can be used. Again, use a band saw to cut the top close to the final shape and use the pattern and router to get to final shape. On a solid wood top, I have never been able to route without some pullout when going across the wood's end grain. A really sharp bit and experimentation on the right speed will miniize it, but there will be some handwork and possibly some filling to deal with it when you are done.
that url explains how to draw one and has a jig that you can make to cut one with router.
http://www.josephfusco.org/Articles/Ellipse/Ellipse.htm
here is how to draw 1/4 of ellipse http://geocities.com/heartland/8108/ellipse.html
another way to draw a 1/4 ellipse using a framing square.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/krumy/ellipse/ellipse.html
Norm-
The oval top is not too bad to cut, once you get a full sized template made. There at least 2 or 3 good techniques for drawing elipses, but have you given any thouoght as to how you are going to make the curved aprons? IMHO, this is a more difficult task than cutting the top.
There are 3 ways that I can think of to go about it--
1. Cut the piece from a thick solid piece of stock, but you have to be able to find wood that is initially 3" thick or so, which can be expensive and difficult depending on supplies.
2. Laminate several thin strips of stock around a form
3. Kerf bend a 3/4" or 7/8" piece of stock to the desired radius, and glue a thin strip onto the back side to hold the shape. (this could also be done with mdf, and thenm apply a veneer to the front as well.)
then there is the task of cutting the mortice and tennons into these bent aprons...
Anyway, just some food for thought.
The top that you show has been made from plywood with iron on edge tape. You could easily do that. I would cut the top with a jigsaw and then clean up the edges on a disc sander. My suggestion for the aprons would be to make them from 1/8" baltic birch laminated 5 layers thick. I've done this before and it is not real easy but it does work and makes a very tough unit. You need lots of cheap clamps ... I bought several sacks of plastic spring clamps (in addition to my considerable collection). Laminate to a form and do one layer at a time. I scarfed my joints as I laid up the layers.
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