Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Apr 23, 2009 06:05pm | #1

   a) As long as you need them to be. Typically, the head of a miter gauge never has to travel any further than the leading edge of the blade. Put your miter gauge in that position, and measure how far the runner extends past the rear edge of the table. That's the minimum length of the slots; make them a few inches longer than that, and you should be fine.

   b) No. The purpose of the slots in the outfeed table is to provide clearance for the runner. They are not intended to act as guides. Therefore, make each slot wide enough and deep enough that the runner can easily move through the slot without binding against the bottom or sides.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   WoodNicheWorks | Apr 23, 2009 06:22pm | #2

   Thanks for your advice! Have a good day!

2. 
   zolton | Apr 23, 2009 08:39pm | #3

   Wood,

   I built a modified version of John White's outfeed table. Mine consists of two cabinets though, rather than one, set in place back to back.

   The top is way different too. Instead of one sheet of expensive phenolic plywood, I used several lengths of melamine-coated particle board. This material is sold as shelving in big box home centers in various widths and lengths. It's cheap, flat (if well-supported), and material slides on it very well.  

   Instead of milling the miter slots into a single sheet, I just spaced the narrower melamine shelving stock (23 inches wide, as I recall) about an inch apart in order to accomodate a miter gauge or crosscut sled. So far it's working quite well for my purposes and I've not got a whole lot of dough in the setup...

   Zolton

    

   If you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon

3. 
   Buster2000 | Apr 23, 2009 09:18pm | #4

   If you use a large crosscut sled make sure they'r elong enough to accomodate those slides too!

4. 
   KeithNewton | Apr 24, 2009 06:53am | #5

   I use a different approach on my outfeed tables. Rather than cutting slots, I make the table about 3/8" lower than the back of the saw, so the sled or MG clears the top, which is back about 6". But I have the TS up on a base which tilts down in the back, so a straight edge from the top would hit about 5' back on the table.

   This takes care of keeping woods which may have a bow from bridging if I am doing a bevel rip. It also helps with thin laminates from hanging on the edge if they bend down. But I can clamp work to that end of the table when I need to, where a no-gap arrangement wouldn't allow.

   Since I am a bit over 6' tall, I like my outfeed tables to be around 36" tall, so my saws all are up on elevated bases about 3".

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 24, 2009 01:58pm | #6

   Keith,

   Yup, i use basically the same approach for my outfeed table.  Purposely made it that way so I wouldn't have to cut troughs for sled runners.  A 3/8" shim lifts it up for those occaisons when you want it flush with the TS top.

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   bones | Apr 24, 2009 04:28pm | #7

   I like you do not have an outfeed table with slots cut.  I have my workbench backed up to the table saw.  It serves two purposes.  First It acts as the outfeed table to catch stock (slightly lower than the top).  Secondly, The table saw increases the width of my bench to hold (stuff) while I work. Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.