Replies

1. 
   terrylee86 | Feb 21, 2009 10:39pm | #1

   Serge,

   You can use your original idea with a few modifications. Books will stick to some water based paints and they never seem to loose that tacky feeling. A high quality paint like Benjamin Moore eggshell if you are looking for a certain sheen would be a likely choice, but I just use cheap flat paint. When I am doing the "Eddie West" look I usually use a flat water based paint over the exact substrate you described, minus the sealer, distress the piece to your vision and then rag on one or two coats of water based poly(eggshell) and you will have a very durable finish. I will even use stain as a glaze in some spots after distressing before I put on the poly for a shading effect. The flat paint seems to provide a better grip for the poly than other sheens.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/21/2009 2:42 pm ET by terrylee86

1. 
   bricofleur | Feb 22, 2009 10:22pm | #3

   Thanks guys for your comments and advices.

   In fact, I had bought the high quality Benjamin Moore paint you mentionned, eggshell, acrylic, as shown on the attached picture. Even if I was chocked by the price, I bought it since I wanted a good and nice finish because the book case would be displayed in the living room, reason for antique look.

   I like the idea of rubbing stain over the sanded areas. I will use the same as the two first coats since the paint color is black ebony.

   Since the last coat of sanding sealer was applied in August 2008, I believe it should be dry enough by now. As Steve wrote, I did slightly scuff sand the sealer with 500 grit sandpaper back in August.

   Finally I now feel more confident to continue the process with only my high quality water based products. And when done, I will post the completed project. And I will certainly remember the tip about using cheap flat paint!

   Thanks again.

   Best,

   Serge- Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -

   http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

   
2. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 22, 2009 01:10am | #2

   The stain won't work very effectively on a surface that has been sealed as you describe.  Stain has to be applied, and then all excess wiped from the surface.  If left on, as you might leave on a paint, the weak binder of stains can compromise the overall finishing system durability. 

   You can use quality waterborne acyrlic paints and clear coats on book cases.  The problem was much more prevalent with older versions of "latex paint".  You can, once you let the waterborne sealer cure a while longer than it's recommended time, slightly scuff sand the sealer and use an oil based varnish.  To be sure of compatibility, and particularly if you have in mind an oil based polyurethane varnish,  you should use a coat of dewaxed shellac before the varnish.

   I should point out, however, that sanding sealer almost never has a valuble role to play in hand applied finishes.  Except for some particular high tech situations, where the manufacturer will specifically require a specific sanding sealer under his top coat, sanding sealers weaken the overall finish.  Mostly it is a commercial expedient to save time, and when time is money that's a useful thing.