Replies

1. 
   bill_1010 | Feb 18, 2004 02:21am | #1

   The 3M product works wonders.

2. 
   Alan | Feb 18, 2004 03:17am | #2

   chisel,

   I tried the 3M "safe" stripper.  Man, is it safe!  It didn't even harm the paint!!

   Sorry to disagree.  Maybe I had an especially tough paint to remove.

   Alan

1. 
   Gretchen | Feb 22, 2004 05:31pm | #16

    tried the 3M "safe" stripper.  Man, is it safe!  It didn't even harm the paint!!

   LOL!!!  If you are removing varnish you can perhaps use some of the "safe" strippers. If it's paint you'd better go with methylene chloride and take precaustions--if you do it often. If it is a now and then job then use good ventilation and gloves.  It is just a tough job.Gretchen

1. 
   Doc | Feb 22, 2004 07:43pm | #17

   I have a similar question.  This is good timing for this subject.  I have an old upright piano that my mom thought would be a good idea to do an antique paint finish on in 1964.  And it's a horrible green swirl look, with beautiful wood underneath.  I'm not sure, but it looks as if it might be cherry.  It's hard to tell because it was completely painted except for some spots inside.  Anyway, I would like to strip it.  I'm hoping that it strips fairly easily because it was professionally-factory finished underneath, so I won't be removing the paint from bare wood.  Although I don't know a lot about this, I'm guessing that the paint probably stayed on the surface and didn't soak in.  Am I safe in assuming, because of the year, that this was probably an oil based paint?  And if so, or not, what would any of you recommend that I use as stripper.  The "orange" scented stripper was recommend to me at Home Depot.  He said it takes longer than some of the more vaporous products, but works as well.  Any advice, as always, is appreciated.  Thanks. 

1. 
   chise2 | Feb 24, 2004 09:25am | #18

   I've been researching since I first posted my question. And I've just ordered a product called Removal 310 made by Napier Environmental Technologies. Check out their products at http://www.removall.com/. Here's a quote from their web page:

   RemovAll™ is a concentrated, water-based formula. RemovAll™ can be applied by brush, roller or airless spray method. It has the unique ability to penetrate and virtually "lift" old coatings from their substrate whether it is steel, wood, glass, aluminum, etc.

   * Water based

   * Fully biodegradable

   * Non flammable

   * Contains no TAP's or HAP's (Toxic / Hazardous Air Pollutants)

   * Non carcinogenic, non toxic

   * Easy cleanup with running water

   * Low VOC's

   * Non ozone depleting

   * Not regulated by authorities for transportation / storage

   * Not regulated by authorities for worker health and safety

   * Low and inoffensive odor

   * Will not burn skin

   * Cost effective because:

   o Requires much less chemical to achieve desired results

   o Reduces man-hours and effort required to complete a project

   o Reduces cost of waste disposal

   o Reduces down time since other work at site can continue while stripper does its job

   * Lowers insurance costs for worker safety, & storage hazards

   TYPICAL APPLICATIONS:

   RemovAll 310 has proven it will effectively lift urethanes, lacquers, latex, alkyd paints, lead based paints, elastomerics and varnish as well as most graffiti from all types of substrates, including wood, masonry, brick, concrete and other porous and non-porous surfaces found in architectural structures. <end quote>

   I was told by the distributor that you can use alcohol to rinse with instead of water which will raise wood grain. Although the product itself is water based so I'll have to see how much it raises the grain. I'm told it takes a lot longer to work than methylene chloride but supposedly it takes off the finish with one application. I usually have to put on at least two heavy coats of methylene chloride based stripper to get off paint or a tough varnish.

2. 
   Gretchen | Feb 25, 2004 02:03pm | #19

   I answered you a little on the other thread. If you work in small areas and quickly so that only the paint is lifted you may be able to preserve the finish underneath.  I used an MC stripper to do this because I wanted quick results. I used mineral spirits to remove the stripper. This was on an Amish piece that was painted/glazed on top of "good" paint. Open out medium fine steel wool pads to remove the paint.Try it and see if it is going to be practical to try this on such a large piece.Gretchen

3. 
   Paul_Snyder | Feb 18, 2004 04:01am | #3

   chisel,

   It takes strong chemicals to dissolve paints and finishes. Some of the chemicals are wrapped in an orange scent and evaporate very slowly and are sold as "safe" strippers but they are not "non toxic."

   Bob Flexner has an article comparing the different types of strippers at this link - Finish Removers. His book has more detail.

   Paul

1. 
   chise2 | Feb 19, 2004 12:01am | #6

   Thanks for responding to my post. The link you left didn't work for me. Could you post the actual address. I guess "non-toxic" is too much to ask for. What I want is something I can use safely without a respirator. Maybe there's something with non-toxic vapors? Does anyone know how safe citristrip or the 3M "safe" stripper really are or what precautions they print on their products?

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Feb 19, 2004 12:41am | #9

   chisel,

   Here's the repaired link - Flexner on Strippers.

   The strippers that are the "safest" include NMP, DBE, and NMP/DBE blends. The article briefly describes these finish removers and you can check the contents on the products you're interested in using. The best approach is to get a copy of the material safety data sheet (MSDS) for the product you use and follow the safety precautions it contains. Your local home center (e.g., Lowes, Home Depot) will provide MSDS upon request.

   Paul

4. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 18, 2004 04:57am | #4

   AFAIK there is no safe chemical paint and varnish remover. Nor is there any non-toxic paint remover. There are some that claim to be less hazardous, but all have a high level of hazards associated with them.

   In fact, I saw an article that argued that the "safer" strippers took longer to work so the person in proximity actually picked up more total hazardous compounds than if a faster acting stripper was used.

   Personally, I like to use the ones that work the fastest and have the longest list of hazards. They work the best. Just take sensible precautions.

1. 
   chise2 | Feb 19, 2004 12:23am | #8

   Thanks for responding to my post. Where did you get the information that all strippers have hazards associated with them? Do you remember what article said that so called "safe" strippers actually expose the worker to more hazard as the stripper takes longer to work.

   I can see your point except that the fastest strippers all contain Menthylene chloride. I have read that no organic vapor respirator with protect you. One would need a full suit with an outside air supply to be protected. By the way, I'm talking about refinishing furniture professionally (I'm mean for money, not that I'm an expert) not just the occasional project.

   P.S. What does AFAIK stand for?

1. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 19, 2004 12:53am | #10

   >> One would need a full suit with an outside air supply to be protected.

   Standing upwind of the workpiece also works pretty well.

   AFAIK == as far as I know.

1. 
   chise2 | Feb 19, 2004 02:25am | #11

   What about when it's raining or too cold or there isn't much wind?

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 19, 2004 03:09am | #12

   I had read an article that postulated that some strippers that contained less hazardous materials could net out more hazardous due to longer exposure to their effects. Concentration of vapors and the length of time exposed to them is a major determinate of their hazard.

   I would recommend you get a copy of Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing". It has a excellent section on strippers including an extensive sidebar on stripper safety. He goes into detail on each type and their chemicals.

   Personally, I would use a forced fresh air respirator with most strippers if I was using them for hours at a time.

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Feb 19, 2004 03:26am | #13

   AFAIK = As far as I know

   BTW (by the way) you can go to the manufacturer's website and get Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for any of the strippers you are interested in. The MSDS will list the hazards and the recommend safety activities or equipment. If you are going into the business, you want to do more than ask questions on the web. Go to the manufacturer's sites and/or contact an industrial hygenist. The URL reference that Paul provided is a rather short excerpt of the chapter in Flexner's book. Again, if you are going into the business, read the whole chapter.

   Here is what is said at the Bix Stripper site. Bix is one of the best of the MC containing strippers--one of the few that works well on polyurethane finishes.

   Respiratory Protection

   Under normal ventilated use conditions, personal respiratory protection is typically not required. If misting or vapors occur, use NIOSH approved pressure demand or other positive pressure SCBA or airline respirator.

   Ventilation

   Provide general or local exhaust ventilation for areas of use.

1. 
   chise2 | Feb 19, 2004 05:56am | #14

   Thanks for all the great info. I think the force air respirator might be the way to go. I guess there is some controversy about the hazard of breathing MC so I'd rather ere on the side of caution.

   I'm pretty sure I saw on one the home shows, might have been "This Old House," (which I think would be more accurately called "Ye old Mansion"), a stripper that works by penetrating the paint and breaking the bond of the paint to the surface. I don't know how it would do on other furniture finishes. They advertised it as "non-toxic" and "environmentally friendly," two terms that might be as vague as "natural" for all I know, but it sounded good. I found something along these lines at http://www.m-tc.com/efs2500data.cfm. This stripper is mostly advertised for removing paint from airplanes but it does list wood as one of the surfaces it can be used on. I found them today and emailed them for more info.

5. 
   rslatm | Feb 18, 2004 04:53pm | #5

   http://www.silentpaintremover.netfirms.com/

   This old house had good things to say about the silent paint remover.
1. 
   chise2 | Feb 19, 2004 12:05am | #7

   Thanks for responding to my post. I checked out the silent stripper and it looks something one would use on large areas like a house or deck. I'm looking for something to use on furniture. Do you remember any other products they recommended on that show that might be useful for stripping furniture? I'll check their web page. Thanks again. Steve

1. 
   rslatm | Feb 21, 2004 05:05pm | #15

   I see no problem with using the silent paint remover on furniture.