Hey gang,
I am going to be working on a step stool project for a gift; probably using cherry.
Anybody know the best texture for a non-slip surface for the step? I really want to avoid having to add any rubber type material (tho I WILL add it to the bottoms of the legs), and just have the cherry as the top surface.
A grooved surface with a core box router bit?
Hundreds of tiny dimpled imprints?
Flat but sanded only to 120 (or less??)?
Other?
Anyone have any experience?
Thanks/
Replies
Most times I use the friction strips with a self sticking backside cut them to size and press them on , mine held up in the elements for 7 or 8 years .
The grooves sound good as well like a wooden ladder step they do have grooves , a vee groove or the small core box or even flat bottom kerfs cut in .
You can sprinkle some sand in your finish or use the old Zolotone textured paint
dusty
Wood species or construction techniques are not really the issue in slipperiness. The issue is the finish. Any smooth, hard finish can be slippery. Bare, wet feet or socks can be very slippery on a film finished surface.
I would recommend you take some steps to reduce the chance of a fall. Merely routing some channels would not be enough IMO. I would look at the self adhesive non-slip strips or buying a non-skid additive that you sprinkle onto a still wet finish.
Thanks for both responses.I am trying to avoid any added materials; I want the beauty of the cherry to shine, even under foot.I plan on finishing using Danish oil, as the least film-y, least glossy finish that still offers some protection.
How about checkering like a gunstock? It would add no materials, give minimal decoration, demonstrate woodworking skill, and still provide a little grip. I'm not sure how decorative the stool is, but maybe just a little strip along the edges would work. Plus would work well with your Danish oil finish.
I see Woodcraft carries a basic kit.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=20946
I like the idea of just texturing the edges. Thanks.I'll see what I come up with.
Post a photo when you get it done.
I ended up inlaying a 1/4" strip an inch from the edge, raised no more than 3/64" to give a grip without being obtrusive.I also started using my signature acorn punch to add a line of texture a further inch in, but I didn't like the effect, so I used a core box bit bit to cover it/add a groove. I would do without the groove if I do this again, but I can live with it.I'll post pics when I get the finish on.
Here's some pics of the finished stool. It has a handhold for added safety (a request of the recipient and not a bad idea.) The full length pic is a bit dark, couldn't get the flash to fire enough because of the natural light.
A method used on varnished boats is to add one eggcupfull of wood flour to 1 pint of varnish and use this for the final coat. It barely detracts from the finish and is very effective.
You couldn't use this where you sat or you wouldn't be able to sit down after a long and windy race.
Interlux makes a microballoon product designed specifically to provide an non-skid surface. Added to varnish it becomes transparent and detracts little from the appearance. You can use one or two coats, and I sugggest doing some tests to see how rough you want the surface to be. A plus of this additive is that the material consists of little balls that while they roughen the surface to provide traction, they do not become sharp so they can still be walked on with bare feet. These would be found only in boating supply stores.
Here is a on-line source that is reliable, and generally has very good prices.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|296162|11453|311499&id=339075
Hi Steve
Have you had personal experience with this product? I make timber surfboards and would be interested to see if it could be used as traction on the deck. May well have to invest in some for a sea trial:)
Rgds
John
Yes, I have added it to varnish for the teak ladder from the cockpit on my sail boat. It adds security without much visual impact since when the beads are wetted out they almost disappear.
I would carve a texture. Checkering is kinda fragile for a step stool, but a basket-weave or kind of flat-topped extra coarse checkering done with a veiner or parting tool would work well. Even just a fine gouge chipped surface would be good. Remington had a basket weave on some of it's shotguns at one time. I think it was a cheap hot-pressed version though... not nearly as nice as a hand carved version. A stippled surface might work too (like carvers do to texture their backgrounds).
i use a v- bit on mine, w/ stop blocks on router fence, then adjust my fence in increments, leaves a nice consistent reveal from ur end edge, gives it a breadboard look good look
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled