Replies

1. 
   BrentD | Jan 05, 2010 11:47am | #1

   I use olive oil. A little beeswax melted in doesn't hurt either.

   Brent

2. 
   Jimma | Jan 05, 2010 12:33pm | #2

   I would not use any oil from natural ingredients as they all have a propensity for becoming rancid (spoiling) and forming a non-drying film that gets gummy. Mineral oil works, but has disadvantages in that it needs periodic renewal, does not seal against surface moisture, can stain, and may not be esthetically pleasing. Since, most solvent-based finishes are non-toxic when cured and seal the surface, one of these (probably polyurethane) would work best for an island where only a small portion of the top would be used for cutting. In any case, I would not recommend cutting animal products on it as the wood will absorb some of the meat and support growth of bacteria, although a disinfectant could be applied after each use. Better to have a dedicated surface for meat (like a true butcher block). I have made a number of end-grain cutting boards of various sizes and prefer to use mineral oil, but other woodworkers have made various suggestions that may be in the archives. Read them all and then decide.

3. 
   PeterThomson | Jan 05, 2010 12:52pm | #3

   Mineral oil mixed with beeswax will work fine, make sure to seal the bottom before you install. Frequent touchups on the top will be needed but that's the nature of work surfaces. I'd avoid polyurethane, it will be difficult to repair.

4. 
   Mervyn | Jan 05, 2010 01:14pm | #4

   I make a lot of end grain cutting boards - so what follows applies to end grain, and may not apply equally if you bucher block is not end grain.

   I tested mineral oil versus tung oil vs blo on some cherry/walnut/ash combination cutting boards and strangely enough, preferred the look of the mineral oil to the other two. That being said, the difference in appearance was marginal.

   I've simply applied repeated coats with a rag - 3 or 4 coats total, and done a final sanding with 300 or 600 grit SC paper and the finish was great. Being straight oil on end grain, it does need to be refreshed every so often.

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Jan 05, 2010 05:47pm | #5

   An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

   Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

   Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.

   Let me say that if you actually cut and chop on your butcher block it will rapidly begin to look ratty. True end grain butcher block keep their appearance for a while but edge grain butcher blocks show cuts immediately.

   To keep your island top looking its best, use a real chopping/cutting block for cutting and chopping.

   Let me also caution against using any food or vegetable oils. These products can turn rancid and product bad odors. Stick with mineral oil mixtures.

1. 
   Wade | Jan 05, 2010 07:32pm | #6

   Thanks for the help. I went ahead and started using the mineral oil. Man I forgot how much effort it took to rub oil down on a piece, the more you rub the more drag you get. Anyway it is looking pretty good, I do not think it is to late to add some beeswax to a oil mixture and add a couple of coats with that. I have only done one coat so far. I am going to rub it down with some oooo steel wool when I get home tomorrow, unless I can talk my wife into doing while I am at work. Who knows I could get lucky and she go for it. Anyway thanks for the guidance and advice.

1. 
   Gretchen | Jan 06, 2010 07:15am | #7

   As you use this, you are going to want to renew the mineral oil anyway. I'm not really sure what the steel wool will do. HOward's method with the paraffin will make it more durable for a longer time. In other words, this is not the last time you'll be applying it.

   BUT do not use olive oil or other oils like that. They will become rancid.

1. 
   BrentD | Jan 06, 2010 07:44am | #8

   It appears my response was lost. Those of you stating as a matter of fact that olive oil will become rancid are simply wrong. I have been doing this for 8 years now and there is no rancid anything, no odoriferous anything. Obviously, you guys have not actually done this.

   Someone recommended against all vegetable derived oils. Keep in mind that linseed oil is a vegetable derived oil.

   Mineral oil if you must. But olive oil does work, and stating that it will become rancid is just not true.

   Brent

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jan 06, 2010 10:53am | #9

   >>> Keep in mind that linseed oil is a vegetable derived oil.

   Yes, but flaxseed oil (aka linseed oil)and tung oil and walnut oil are what are known as "drying oils". Because they polymerize they do not become rancid over time. Non-drying vegetable oils never dry therefor they are subject to getting rancid. Mineral oil is a refined petroleum product and will not be subject to getting rancid.

   When there is a completely long term safe treatment like mineral oil, it makes little sense to use a product that may be a problem at some later time.

6. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 06, 2010 11:36am | #10

   Since this will be actually used as a cutting board I would agree than mineral oil makes the most sense. It will probably need renewing often of course.

7. 
   zolton | Jan 06, 2010 01:46pm | #11

   Wade,

   Forest Products Laboratory published a paper on this subject. They recommend using melted paraffin wax on the surface of butcher block type cutting boards. When the wax cools you can scrape off the excess. This technique makes sense to me (though, full disclosure, I've never tried it), because once the wax hardens it will act as a moderate water-repellent..

   Zolton

8. 
   HWG | Jan 08, 2010 02:36pm | #12

   Wade, don't overthink this
   Wade, don't overthink this and make a lot of work when it isn't necessary. I use mineral oil all the time on cutting boards and a butcher block table that I made. Just spread the mineral oil on, rub it around to get an even coat, and let it soak it. Do it again every now and then when it starts to look dry. Some wax added in would keep the oil from penetrating as deep and also would be less inclined to dry out -- go for that if it works good for you. But for a heavily used butcher block I imagine the oil is all you need, and just apply it and let it soak in. No need to wear yourself (or your wife) out trying to rub it in. This is NOT like using Watco oil which is a drying oil where the excess must be wiped off.