Ok, I need some advice. I am making a Demilune type entry table and the top will be veneer with a Baltic Birch substrate. I would like to put a edge on the table to not only cover the plywood but also as a decorative feature. This edging would be ¾” thick and about 1” wide and surround the table top. I figure on doing this edge by segmenting pieces to copy the arc of the table top. So this is where I am in trouble, I need to figure out how to perfectly mate the edges of the plywood the segmented curved lip. Now I have some ideas but I thought before I over engineered the dickens out of this I would ask for some help from those more knowledgeable than I at this (probably a bunch of people!). So any suggestions to an easy or standard way something like this is done?
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Thanks, Ken
Replies
There's an easier way to do it, lay up your substrate with your segmentated rim, then veneer the entire top piecing the veneer together so the joints in the veneer match the rim joints. Scroll down this page, http://furniturecarver.com/tables.html
Also, here's the same process done on a round table, http://furniturecarver.com/Turek4.html
Something to consider is using a solid substrate in the species you're finishing with, rimming a substrate is often more expensive than just using the wood you're finishing with and veneering it. It's no crime to veneer walnut or cheery, it grows on trees.
Lee
Edited 11/27/2006 8:19 pm ET by LeeGrindinger
It's no crime to veneer walnut or cheery, it grows on trees.
Lee,
Wow!! Is that where it comes from? Thanx,
:-D Jethro
Ken,
You'll have better luck if you keep the angles for the segments a convienent angle like 60/120 degrees for 3 or 4 sides (depending on how one half of a hexagon is superimposed on the semicircle, or 22-1/2 / 157-1/2 degrees for 4-5 sides using an octagon. Each joint can be custom fitted with a hand plane for the "perfect" fit.
How do you intend on handling the edge of the table where the veneer either meets, or overlaps the solid edging? It isn't clear in your description. I see three options:
1. The veneer meets, but does not overlap the solid edging, and is flush with the top of the edging. Depending on the number of edging segments used, different looks can be achieved.
2. The veneer overlaps the solid edging all the way to the edge. This leaves the fragile edge of the veneer exposed to some degree, even if some sort of a profile is used to smooth the corners. That being said, I have some reasonably good commercial furniture that does just that with a thumbnail like molding. And, yes, I have a spot of veneer that has been damaged at the edge.
Another issue is that the plywood / edging lines can telegraph through the veneer over time. Seasonal expansion of the plywood and edging is also an issue. Depending on the grain orientations, this could stress the veneer to the point of cracking. Cross-veneering (i.e. first layer of veneer is applied 90 deg. to the top veneer grain orientation) with mahogany veneer should help with the telegraphing and cracking due to grain orientation.
3. The veneer overlaps the solid edging, but the edging is shaped so that there is a "lip" or bead at the edge of the top, protecting the edge of the veneer. This is similar to the cockbeading used on veneered drawer fronts. Applying a separate solid strip that is bent around the perimeter of the table may be the easiest way to execute this detail. Laminating may be another.
I'd also strongly consider Lee's recommendation of using a solid wood top. The time it will take to edge the top, fit the joints, and handle the veneer/edge boundary may not be worth the hassle. Then again, the journey/experience of doing it may be worth the time.
BTW, what woods and veneers are you planning on using?
Thanks,
-- Blue
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