Replies

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Mar 06, 2005 10:35pm | #1

   Have you considered laying a peice of veneer on top? For the amount of time & trouble, it may be worth it.   Ash and Oak veneers are reasonable. 

1. 
   saulgood | Mar 07, 2005 12:00am | #2

   Yeah, I had that thought. I was looking at the selection at my local hardwood supplier, decided that for the price and trouble I'd try to see if I could salvage what i've got . Have'nt ruled it out yet, though

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Mar 07, 2005 09:18am | #3

   You didn't mention the size, but ash veneer shouldn't run more than $45 for a 30 x 96 sheet.

1. 
   saulgood | Mar 07, 2005 08:46pm | #6

   The table"s max. dimensions are 42" x 72" .
   Because of the shape (not rectangular) I could get that out of one sheet, but there'd be a splice.

1. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Mar 07, 2005 11:06pm | #7

   4 x 8 sheets are available.

    

2. 
   saulgood | Mar 08, 2005 03:18am | #9

   Thanks. have you ever tried "Titebond II" for veneering? it can be rolled on (both surfaces) then let dry. Work is positioned, then heated from top with an iron. works well. What do you use?

3. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Mar 08, 2005 09:33am | #10

   I've used TB, TBII, Caesin, contact, plastic resin.  If you are worried about the layup, use the TB.  If something goes awry, use a heat gun or iron to break the bond.  Contact may creep after a while. 

4. 
   saulgood | Mar 08, 2005 03:30pm | #12

   I wouldn't be as concerned with alignment as I would adhesion. the edge would be veneered, with the corners eased. I like the TBII /iron method because it smooths out air and seems clean, but which would you use to best prevent delam.?

5. 
   CRAIGCONEY_M | Mar 08, 2005 07:02pm | #13

   TBII will work fine.

2. 
   joinerswork | Mar 07, 2005 04:31pm | #4

   saul,

   An old gunsmith's tip for removing grease and oil from gunstocks: apply dry-cleaning fluid (spot remover) to the area, and cover with a layer of powdered whiting, available at paint store.  The solvent picks up the grease, and the whiting absorbs it.  Repeat as necessary.  I suppose you could use lacquer thinner instead for the solvent.

   You will probably want to think about an oil based stain, to help blend in any remaining discoloration.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   saulgood | Mar 07, 2005 08:37pm | #5

   Ray,
   thanks for the tip. I've never heard of "whiting". Does it have other uses, or is it just for absorption? Also, if the grain of the wood is open and unfinished, will there be any problem with this powder (or the paste it makes) sticking in the pores? How would you "rinse" the surface? thanks, saul

1. 
   joinerswork | Mar 08, 2005 01:42am | #8

   saul,

   Whiting is finely ground chalk.  Used for thickening putty after it's been tinted to color, among other things. It should brush right off after absorbing the oil, you may need to use a stiff brush to get into the pores. Any little bits remaining will likely take the stain anyway.

   Regards,

   Ray

3. 
   BG | Mar 08, 2005 02:51pm | #11

   Saul,
   A couple of ideas:
   1. soap...make your own with a little salad oil and potash from the fireplace...with a cloth rub in little circles..the soap gets stronger as it removes the dirt and oil.
   2. Lacquer thinner followed by an ammonia wash. The ammonia wash is 1 cup of ammonia to a quart of water...flood surface, sop it up.

    

4. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 09, 2005 04:00am | #14

   I'd go with 'jointers' thoughts...

   Sometimes a CLEAN cotton rag and a low heat iron will 'suck' up some of the oils...