Replies

1. 
   Westchester | Jan 14, 2013 05:54am | #1

   Tear Out

   Before repairing can you try using a steel scraper - pad sander - and finally hand sanding to see how much you can improve the surface.

   SA

2. 
   Frankie | Jan 14, 2013 09:14pm | #2

   Don't know how bad your tearout is but if you really want a smooth tabletop, you may want to consider Pore-O-Pac by Behlen.

    http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?pn=99P03.11

   It will take the finish uniformly as well as filling in the grain.

3. 
   roc | Jan 15, 2013 12:38am | #3

   My opinion =

    Oh . . . .no . . . no . . . no . . .

   filler ?

   . . . .no . . . no . . . no . . .

   go here and buy this

   http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=47298&cat=1,41182,48944

   and this

   http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=46294&cat=1,41182,48944

   or similar but don't buy cheep planes.

   Then take some time and learn how to use them on some scrap of the exact same wood as your table.

   Once you can achieve a tear out free surface on your scrap

   then

   practice putting finish on it until the final result makes a big silly smile on your face.

   then

   and only then

   return to your fine table.

   File the pipe dream of filler under fairies, magic carpets and Santa.  I like thinking about all of those things but I don't take them too seriously.

   Come to think about it filler just belongs in the dust bin not in the file with the fun and interesting fantasies.

   filler

   no you are thinking car finishes and painting over the filler.  Or filling resessed finish nail holes AND PAINTING OVER THE FILLER.  Even that only works if you really know what you are doing.  Other wise the filler shrinks and you still have an indentation.

   It is easily posible to plane the mahogany tear out free and never even pick up your scraper.

   Sharpening is key but that is another thread so let us know if you have any problems there.

   PS:

   I hate it when people say don't but they don't say why so I figurd I would elaborate on your questions :

    > be very careful when planing magogany because tear-out occurs very easily due to the cross grain.<

   The correct term and don't be embarased  . . . it's cool . . . you are learning . . . is "reversing grain".  Cross grain is , used when for instance , you plane across the grain which you should probably do to get the surface down to the level of the bottom of the tear out using the fore plane.  Then plane with the grain using the fore plane.  Then finally use the finish plane to take the surface to the final surface smoothness before putting finish on it.

   All those filler options you mentioned will be blotchy under the tung oil finish

   the finish can't penetrate any of the fillers the same way that they will the wood so there will be some difference.

   >Will home made hide glue/sanding dust filler work?<

    That would probably be the closest and sorta would work but here is another reason it will show up as a blotch ; there will be no grain so the grain in the wood ends at the filler , then there is random saw dust in porous glue ness, then the grain continues on.

   Can you see in your mind's eye how that would be ?  So then you start painting on the grain, I am not kidding , they call that foe finishing.  sorry about the wrong spelling.

   >Will a filler made from tung oil/sanding dust work?<

   No it will take months to dry and be a rubbery spot in the table and more than likely will have a frosty look to it besides the lack of grain I mentioned above.

   >If the above will not work what else can I try? <

   Please consider the hand planes I suggested above.

   >I have googled extensively but cannot get a definitive/authoritative answer.<

   Yep and for the same reason you can't go down to the local zoo and look at a Sasquatch.

   Sorry

   I am not makeing fun, too much, I just want to convey the realities of what you seek.