Hello, I am just a hobbiest woodworker. All what I know is learned by reading on the internet or books. I don’t have a tutor, so when I do something I usually have many doubts whether I am doing it correctly. I ask some help to be sure my sharpening procedure is correct. So, I have three japanese waterstones: 400, 1000, 6000 and a leather strip with some chromium oxide on it. I use the veritas MKII jig. The first time I sharpen I start with 400, than I switch to 1000 and then hone a microbevel directly with 6000. Sometimes I go to leather strip. When blade is no longer sharp, I start all over again, that means I go back to 400 and completely remove the microbevel, until I feel a burr developing to the back, than again to 1000 and microbevel with 6000. Is this the correct procedure? I mean, do I really have to go back to 400 every time I sharpen and remove the microbevel? It takes me quite a long time to do this. Thanks for anybody who would help me.
Enrico
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Replies
Enrico,
I don't know if you've looked around here at all, but there are quite a few threads -- some of them quite long -- having to do with sharpening practices. I recommend a search in the hand tools category and I think you'll find more information than you need.
I can't help you with advice regarding the equipment you use because I'm a working anachronism -- I still use natural oil stones and I've never used a jig. However, there are many experts around here from whom you will likely receive lots of advice very soon. Good luck.
Verne
If a tree falls in the forest, and no one is there to cut it up and make something with it . . . what a waste!
Enrico,
Nothing wrong with your procedure but perhaps you are using all the stages too often.
Once you've got a bevel + microbevel honed to sharpness, you can put the sharp back again when it begins to dull a bit by just stropping again. I usually manage to keep sharp in this way with about 3 re-stroppings on leather using Tormek honing paste with a bit of Camelia oil in it.
When the stropping-only doesn't quite get your blade as sharp as it was, re-do the microbevel again then strop. You don't need to put back a whole new bevel; just re-do the microbevel, which may then be slightly less "micro" than the previous one but will only take a few swipes on the 6000 stone to make. Then you have another 3 stroppings-worth of sharp.
I find I can put back a micro-bevel about 3-4 times before it starts getting too broad. At this point you can do the whole procedure again, starting with a re-formation of the main bevel.
If you make the main bevel with a wheel you get a slight hollow grind and this makes it easier to make a new main bevel, as you don't have to remove all the metal from the whole bevel, just from the two strips either side of the hollow section.
Lataxe
Ok, thank you, I understand better now. I will follow you directions. thanks for helping. Enrico
Edited 3/6/2009 9:09 am ET by esc
Hi Enrico
Lataxe has given you excellent advice (it's probably what his Ladywife told him to say), and there is little that one could add to this.
I would recommend that you lose your 400 stone. It is likely to be making more work for you than saving you time. These stones are notorious for being soft and poor at remaining flat. Also, a stone this coarse is not needed for the little amount of steel you are removing. Your 1000 (Norton?) is sufficient.
In line with the theme of this thread, for interest to those who hollow grind the primary bevel, here is a link to an article I recently posted in The Woodworking Life on my sharpening strategy. What I have attempted to do here is draw attention to what lies beyond sharpening, that is, thinking ahead to when one will need to re-sharpen the edge.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Hi Dereck, actually the 400 stone saved my life. It is necessary to make the primary bevel, at least the first time you use it. But I totally agree with you, it wears very fast in the middle. But this is a problem that I encounter with all waterstones. Even the 1000 hollows out and I just hate it. I always wonder why I bouhght japanese waterstones instead of diamond stones. They must cut much better, otherwise I don't see the point. Ceramic or diamond stones are known to maintain straight forever. I will check your blog. Thank you, Enrico
Enrico,
Unless your blade gets nicked in use, you should not need to go back to 400 or even 1000. A few strokes on the 6000x should be all you need. Don't forget to lap the burr of the back, though.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
(soon to be www.flairwoodworks.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
But this way the microbevel will get larger and larger with time. And eventually you will have to go back to the primary bevel with 400 stone and start all over again. Yes, you will do it once in a while but it will take a long time to do the whole procedure from start. Correct?
Exactly. But it does make most of your sharpening sessions quick. To rehone a blade, it takes less than a minute.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)
- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
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