mounting a small tablesaw in a table top
I have a small craftsman table saw (2 months old) that weighs only 70 lbs which causes it to tip at times while ripping longer pieces of stock. I tried to add weight by replacing the aluminum extension wings on either side with some 2×6 planks notched into the extension rods that hold the wings. This has added some weight and stability, but in going through the exercise (which was prompted, in addtion to the tipping, to having a better surface to clamp featherboards to) I’ve realized that the primary problem is the short distance between the front of the saw and the blade.
My thought is to sink the entire saw into a laminate tabletop or countertop material. I can’t afford a cabinet saw at this point.
Any advice/plans/warnings…I know there could be an issue with how flat the surface will be. I can support the saw with its legs set up to prevent sag and can make the surface of the laminate flush with the aluminum saw table top.
Thanks in advance
Replies
I boogered up a truly horrific machine out of a lousy craftsman TS - took it apart, bolted the "trunnions" and whatnot to the underside of a 1 1/4" thick, 30" x 60" laminate top, plugged it in, turned it on, and raised the blade right through the top. Mounted the whole shebang on a frame of 2x4s, complete with casters, and pretended it was a cabinet saw. It probably weighed more than my contractor's saw, and would have made OSHA burst into flames as the blade wasn't shrouded below the table. I did a lot with that horrible thing, but for the good of all humanity it has been disassembled.
You might be able to drop your still-assembled saw into a cutout in a big laminate top, but you'd restrict access to the switch. Can you make due with an infeed table that you can relocate as needed?
did
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I think I'll just sink the 2x6 side extentsion planks further down to allow for an MDF top to be installed on top level with the table and will just extend that piece out to the front of the table from the edge to just short of the blade on the left side. The biggest problem with the saw is the short run of table before the blade which makes using featherboards a challenge. Before I installed the planks, there really wasn't even a way to easily clamp to the aluminum extension wing becuase it had an under lip.
Thanks for your help...
bmc23523
Norm did a really cool project with a small TS... good luck!
http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?9908
bmc,
I used Norm's model as a starting point for my skill tabletop saw. I built out the base, put on wheels, added dust collection/box under saw, extensions on the backside and to the right of the saw...used two sheet of MDF for the top. It was one big hulk. Eventually it did sag a bit, I shoulda used 6 wheels for its length.
Regardless, cutting sheet goods was still an issue with the short distance between the edge and the blade. I bought a new blade for the skill hand saw and started ripping with a couple of simple jigs. Now I have a cabinet saw...I still use the hand saw to cut up large sheets.
Thanks. Think I'm going to look around for a used contractor saw that will at least give me a decent base to work from...otherwise have a silk purse/sow's ear situation here.
I actually built one, complete with a fence that can go up to 52"
There are still a few items to fix (I didn't have a full sheet of melamine at the time so I used a few pieces and made it up, but the material sometimes stick)
For the most part it can rip and cut full sheet goods. Works real good for me
If you want I can take pictures of it and email to you.
Let me know
I dont know how big you realy need it to be, but Plans Now has a nifty table set-up. It holds your little saw & a router in one pretty nice cabinet set-up. Hope this helps.
I had the exact same problem with tipping and so I did exactly the same with my cheap Delta tablesaw. The inspiration came when I saw David Marks's router embedded in his tablesaw extension table. I had built a rather large workbench (3'x7') from 2x4s and MDF following the general plans found on this site:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm
This is an extremely solid table (I had used it to support a 2 1/2" thick concrete countertop I was making.)
Once I decided to embed my tablesaw into it, I cut a hole the exact size of my existing saw table with the blade 24" from one end with the front edge of the blade slot centered front-to-back. I had to trim the 2x4's below the hole so it would rest flush, and routed extensions to my miter slots so they would extend across the entire table. I also embedded my router on the far end. Lastly, I covered the MDF top with a sheet of white formica (from my local hardware chain) and used a flush trim bit on my router for a perfect fit.
Of course, my cheap fence wouldn't work anymore, so I used a straight board with clamps for several months until I could save up for a real fence. I checked the Biesemeyer closeout page religiously. I finally bought a 7' rail set (50L12) nd fence both labeled "Blem" (I couldn't find a single blemish).
http://www.biesemeyer.com/specials/index.htm
They work great! and I can use them for both the saw and the router.
I also added locking casters so I can move it around in my garage.
One of these days I'll upgrade to a much nicer saw, but this setup should work for me for some time.
Good luck.
As they say, Way to go.
Gotta love it!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Think you could post a picture for us to enjoy, admire and of course learn from?
All, the title of the thread reminded me of a story, about a sweet little old lady, who took her pair of pet rabbits to a taxidermist after they'd passed to their reward. Laying them gently on the countertop, she says, "Young man, these are my beloved pets."
Somewhat perplexed, he asked, "Do you want them mounted?"
"Oh no," was the reply, "Just holding hands!"
Ray
OK Ray, that was a new one to me and one of the best laughs I have had in a long time. I'll have that vision in my head for a while, hope you don't mind if I share that one some :)
another Ray
Hey, bmc,
It looks like you got good advice on the saw's top. Now you need a good rip-fence!
I built a fence for my contractor's saw from plans that ran in FWW no. 68/Jan./Feb. 1988. I am thrilled with this fence, it was cheap, easy to make and works as good as one of those expensive store bought versions. The author of the article, Marshall Young, is my hero, and if he's reading this, I offer a very sincere "Thank you!"
Randy
First off, I have nothing to do with the posting, and can not vouch for the seller, the fence, or the posting in any way. Having said that, I thought you might be interested in this.
The posting is titled: 6' Table Saw Rip Fence by Beisemeyer - $40.
Here is the link:
http://nashville.craigslist.org/tls/375792622.html
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