Replies

1. 
   mike4244 | Mar 05, 2006 01:04am | #1

   Are you saying the plug was cut,that's why you can't try it out?I would not buy a used power tool that I could not turn on. As far as the 1/4" play in the arbor,the saw needs bearings,and maybe the shaft too.As far as a good deal, maybe,need more information. The jointer if in good condition is worth $ 150.00 to me. You do not say what size shaper,could be a small shaper.worth less than $150.00. A 3hp  shaper in decent condition without cutters maybe $400.00 or $500.00.All depends on what a person thinks "good" condition is.

   You have to realize that you will spend a lot of time and money reconditioning an old machine. That being said, a lot of the old cast iron machines are well worth the effort.

   I helped a friend of mine last year moving a 36"bandsaw.He spent a week working on it, adding a single phase motor,new bearings etc. He now has a real bandsaw ,makes his 16" bandsaw look like a toy.

   mike

1. 
   mtclay1 | Mar 05, 2006 02:45am | #2

   yes the cord was cut off by lift gate. all three tools were working in shop before removal. the motor shaft moves back and forth a 1/4". these items have orginal motors. from pics on line i believe these items to be around 1948 or older. tags nowhere to be found(maybe hidden by the spray paint. inside no rust. outside a fair amount but only in cosmetic areas. both the table saw stand and shaper stand have same looking cast iron base but different dimensions. the cast iron shaper table has same extension as table saw. the table saw arbor and bearings seem tight and move freely by hand. can i retro fit new motor to old saw? the old motors are rated different than new ones. does the old motors have same type of power as the newer or are they to weak? thanks clay

2. 
   QCInspector | Mar 05, 2006 12:14pm | #3

   Are you sure the shaft is moving a 1/4", or is it possible the pulley is sliding back and forth on the shaft?

   If it is the shaft and the motor was working before the cord was cut then change the bearings. If you don't have any knowledge or background fixing motors and engines then find someone among your friends that's into fixing cars, motorcycles, boats, etc., and get them to help.

   Don't buy the bearings from Delta/Rockwell until you try a bearing supplier (look in the phone book under Bearings) first. Take the ones out that you removed to the bearing supplier. They will get replacements by cross referencing the numbers on the bearing, and if unmarked will measure them and get equivalent. The cost will be a lot cheaper than from the original maker too. While your at it you should also replace the arbor bearings.

   If the motor has little oil cups at each end then there may be bushings instead. When they wear that much the shaft may be worn too, and will be harder to fix.

   For the price of a plug. I would buy one, put it on the saw and try it out. Run it without a blade and if you can slip the belts off and listen a second time to see what it sounds like. That will give you a better indication of what could be wrong.

   As most of the aftermarket fences are made for saws like the one you are thinking about buying, adding one will not be difficult.

   The price for that group of toys sounds good to me especially if there are decent sawblades and or shaper cutters included. (Even small shaper cutters add up in a hurry.) The saw would go for that much in our end of Canada alone. You have to check out the prices in your area to see if it's worth or not.

1. 
   mtclay1 | Mar 05, 2006 05:24pm | #4

   thanks for the info QCInspector. its definately the shaft of motor that moves  back in forth. shold i retro fit new motor in or repair old motor? does existing motor have enough power or will new motor be a much improved saw? thanks a million clay smith

    

1. 
   QCInspector | Mar 05, 2006 10:43pm | #5

   Old electric motors are not like old piston engines. Unless there is damage from overheating or it is wired up wrong it will pretty much put out the same power as when it was new.And the reason I say wired wrong is because I have a friend that was living in a small rented farm house and his shop was in the basement. He wanted to hookup his new Unisaw that could be run on 110/220, and the closest 220 line was for the kitchen stove that was hard wired upstairs. He cut the wires and installed a stove electrical box and plugs. When he wanted to use the saw he unplugged the stove and plugged in the saw. Being single there was no conflict between cooking and cutting. He did this for about 5 years before getting married and moving closer to their jobs, and except for bogging down when ripping thick hardwoods never had any problems. I moved in when he left and when I went to hookup my tablesaw I discovered that he had the cable to the stove correct but the saw wasn't. The cable didn't use both of the hot leads, so the saw was running on 110 the entire time and hadn't been a problem except for the hardwoods. In his new shop his father hooked up the wires correctly and "discovered the lost power". He went from 1.5 to 3 HP with a flip of the switch. ;-)As far as I know the Unisaws had specially made motors (usually Baldor) that will cost a lot more to replace than a regular motor of the same horsepower. It would be worth it to try to fix the original first before resorting to replacing with a new one. New bearings from a bearing supplier will only cost $20 or $30 at most. A new motor at least 10 times that much. More power is not an issue if you use sharp rip blades for the thick stuff unless you want to rip big piles of wood or stacks of sheet goods at the same time.Here is a site devoted to old woodworking machines that will help you with your questions about all 3 that you are looking at.http://www.owwm.com