I need to buy a MT2 drill chuck for my lathe. I can probably pick one up at Woodcraft, to get it quickly, but I imagine all chucks are not created alike. Guidance, please? I’m getting dizzy trying to pull all this turning stuff together and actually make some things by Christmas.
[Edited to try and make sense]
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Edited 12/2/2009 11:35 am by forestgirl
Replies
FG,
Opening a can of worms here, but...............
I use Teknatool chucks. They're not overly expensive and I have had good luck with them. I have an older midi (with the tommy bars) and 4 G3's. The last one I bought off of a guy from Canada on e-bay, NIB, with the insert, for $125, and I think I had it within 3 days. This chuck has about .001 of runout, so I have no complaints. The worst runout of the bunch (about .004) can be traced to the insert.
You have to get the correct insert for your lathe, so 1x8, 1 1/4x8, etc. The Nova G-3's come with 2" jaws (altho' I think you can get them naked now for us folks that have LOTS of 2" jaws), which will serve you well for a lot of different applications. I've used my dad's SuperNova2, but I don't see it as any better or worse than the G3. I've chucked some pretty nasty looking stuff into those G3's and have no qualms about holding power, etc. Neither would I have any issues with the other brands of chucks, the Novas are just what I'm used to. Sort of like that old saddle: it just feels right to YOU.
You will most likely (ha!)get a few different answers on this one, Vicmarc, Oneway, Teknatool, (there are some less expensive ones out there) etc. Almost all of the Nova jaws interchange with each other, some of the others don't. Unless you are financially limited to one chuck, I don't see this as an issue.
At the end of the day, a quality chuck holds your piece so you can focus on the end result.
Have I confused you sufficiently? I guess your hubbie knows what lathe tools you want for Christmas? :)
Rich
Just a question how does all that info on thread sizes relate to MT2 chucks? Yes, a very confusing post indeed
The chuck adapters aren't sized for MT's, just for threads. If you don't have threads, you'll have to use a different adapter than the "standard" ones. I believe FG's Jet has a 1x8 thread, but I could be mistaken.Sorry if I confused that issue. I assumed the focus of the thread was on the chuck.Rich
Morse tapers are for inserted accessories, most commonly drive centers, but might also be on jacob's drill chucks.
Most of the time when people mention "chucks" (without the "jacobs" or maybe "key" or "drill), they are referring to accessories that screw on like this:
View Image
If you just need a drill chuck, the Woodcraft offering is decent. If you want a screw on chuck, like the one in the picture, the Talon is nice one.
Are you talking about a scroll type chuck to hold wood (they are threaded not MT) or a Jacobs type chuck (usually #1 or #2 MT) to hold drill bits and the like?
Apologies to everyone!! I'm asking about a drill chuck for the lathe. I worded the post very badly (bad-back day, muscle relaxants and painkillers impede mental facilities. As one author put it -- "My brains cells aren't holding hands...."
It's tempting to just grab something off the shelf at Woodcraft, but even the lowly drill chuck must be present in good, decent and poor quality, so checking with you guys first.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I have the golden goose from Woodcraft addressed in this review:
http://www.epinions.com/review/Golden_Goose_1_2_Drill_Chuck_JT33_Taper_epi/content_440077291140
I concur in the reviewers statements. His impresssions mirror my own experience with the product.
I have one of those as well, it's done fine by me.I apologize for confusing this.Rich
You can get by with a cheap one, I have several because I don't like to change bits and they all work fine. You'll use it a lot in the tail stock for drilling (I use 1" and 1-1/2" carbide forstner bits for pepper mills all the time) so just make sure the MT is to spec.
You made yourself clear to me, I bought a 5/8" drill chuck with a #2 morse taper from Grizzly a few years ago. I prefer 5/8" over 1/2" drill chucks. I am very satisfied with it.As a matter of fact I use it in a small metal lathe because it is more accurate than the one that came with the lathe.You could spend a lot of money on a drill chuck but if you buy a decent one for $50.00 or so you will be satisfied.
mike
Oddly I found your post to be very straight forward. Maybe it's me.
Try this. http://lathemaster.com/Drill%20Chucks.htm
I got a keyless #3MT from them and have been very happy with it.
FG , Believe it or not , Sears Craftsman lathe accessories have always been reasonable and good quality , but if you live on a Rock maybe this is not an option .
regards from the valley of Miracles dusty
I suspect most Sears accessories would need to be ordered, although there is a Sears in the nearest commercial town. There's a bunch of other stuff I'm buying -- bottle stopper parts, mandrel, hard waxes and such. If only it were as easy as going to the grocery store! Ordering most stuff online, in an area (woodturning) that I'm unfamiliar with, so have to put extra time into understanding the process and making sure I get all the parts I need!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG:
Packard Woodworks: http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=lathes-acc-spec-arbkey
They'll ship express, but I believe you have to call them to arrange it.
Site: http://www.packardwoodworks.com/
I've used this chuck, it's done well for me.
Best,
Thanks, Leon, there are a couple other things I need to order from them. I took a ferry trip today, and stopped at Woodcraft in Seattle. They were out of the keyed chucks, so ordering from Packard will work out.
Question for you: What's a drawbar?? Someone suggested I have a chuck outfitted with a drawbar, or modify it so it will take one. I'm clueless -- not very "drill oriented" I guess. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
For a wood lathe a drawbar is not really needed, I've never used one and I do a lot of drilling with larger bits. It threads into the MT from the other end to secure the chuck in the tail stock.
Damfino, FG, from a quick search it seems to be something used on a Bridgeport milling machine to accept/eject cutters.
If you're using it in your tailstock it shouldn't be an issue (mine is an old Delta that's self-ejecting), I've got a length of something I hogged down with a spokeshave in the headstock that I apply BFF via a mallet to eject centers.
I haven't had to pull the chuck on my drill press as of yet -- heck, it's on it's third owner, at least -- when I do, I'll probably call Bob Vaughan and whinge until he tells me how to do it. It's still running true after gods know how many years, so I don't mess with it.Leon
Sounds like there's no real concern about drawbar issues, nice to hear. I want to turn, not work on gizmos! Thanks Leon.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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