Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 22, 2005 05:49am | #1

   "What is the deal with the Bosch (1617) plunge base not being able to be mounted under a table?"  Where did you see this?

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   ohcomeon | Jun 22, 2005 06:10am | #2

   First I read it in a review of the router, and sure enough, it is printed right on the plunge base itself.  It says damage could occur, or something to that effect.

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 22, 2005 09:45pm | #7

   Weird!  Wish they'd be a little more forthcoming with their info.....forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Midnight | Jun 23, 2005 02:37am | #8

   have you installed your Freud yer Jamie..??Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

1. 
   forestgirl | Jun 23, 2005 02:52am | #9

   Oh yeah!  Even posted it at Knots I think.....a couple months ago?  Amazing how nice a 3+HP router is in a table!  I love it!

   Another one of those "why didn't I do it sooner" items.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

2. 
   ohcomeon | Jun 23, 2005 04:25am | #10

   Can you give me a little feedback on your Freud (model, experience to date)?  I keep forgetting them as an option.  As I mentioned previously, I'm looking for a plunge router that I can use in the table primarily, but also out of the table on the occaision I need to use the plunge function.

   thanks, Jake

3. 
   forestgirl | Jun 23, 2005 07:27am | #13

   It's the Freud FT2000, 3-1/4HP, an older used specimen, but I don't think it's changed much over the years.  It's a big, big dude.  I weighed it once, I think it was around 12 pounds.

   I've just been using it in the table for about 2 months, maybe 3.  No big bits yet, just Roman ogee and chamfer bits.  It's strong, no doubt about it.  I haven't used it hand-held, far too big for me (bad hands, surgery), and I have a Porter Cable plunge router that's more my size.  People talk about plunge routers being a pain in a table, but so far I've not found it to be that big of a deal.  If I had the extra dough, I'd probably get the Router Raizer, but not an option.

   One thing to think about is the table you'd put it in.  These big horses will make tables sag over a period of time.  I have mine mounted in the Veritas steel table top -- universal mounting, and it won't ever sag.  The controls are easy to access in the table, which is nice.  One-wrench bit change is a plus too.  I have a bookmark for a bent-wrench runs about $14.  LMK if you need it.

   There are several other people here who have the Freud, so if you start a thread titled "Feedback on Freud Plunge Router??"  I'm sure you'll get more info than I can provide.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

4. 
   webdesigner8 | Jul 30, 2007 11:05am | #16

   Hi Forestgirl!
   I need a nice handheld router to use with my Leigh dovetail jig.
   Would the Bosch 1617 EVS router be one of your top choices?
   I know Pat Warner likes the Dewalt 618 router, have you tried it?
   Don't really need the vacuum feature, I just ordered the vacuum system for my D4 at AWFS, Vegas! Well, please let me know your experience with handheld routers, which one do you like?
   A such as: balance, control, ease of changing bits, power, etc. Do you like the Dewalt 618 package: fixed base and plunge base? Which router do you use for dovetail jig work?thanks,
   Gary

5. 
   forestgirl | Jul 30, 2007 05:13pm | #18

   Hi, Gary.  I don't have that much experience with different routers -- I've used my PC 690, it's plunge sibling, and a crappy old Craftsman, that's it.  I have a big Freud router in my table. 

   This is kind of an old thread, started in 2005, you might want to start a new one and see what other models others have been using, what their feedback is.  Best router for handheld/Leigh would be a focused title.  I'll be interested in what'cha hear!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

2. 
   dukeone | Jun 23, 2005 06:58am | #12

   I think the "not for router table" admonition is because when you loosen the clamp to adjust the bit the motor could drop out of the base. Don't remember if I read this somewhere or not.

   KDMKenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member

2. 
   firemann | Jun 22, 2005 07:08pm | #3

   Dear,

     flamedmaple, if I had a chose of an american made tool or a china made tool, I would choose the american made. $20.00 is not that much to have the peace of mind knowing that I bougt a better tool

    

    

    

   steve

1. 
   ohcomeon | Jun 22, 2005 07:35pm | #5

   My point exactly.  The dilemma comes from the M12V which is much cheaper than any of the other 3.25HP routers ($75+).  But I still have trouble w/ "high end" tools from China.

   The Bosch thing puzzles me too since I planned to use the plunge base in the table since I don't have a lift, but they say not to for some reason.  I also saw a lot of posts here about the Bosch magnesium base corroding (oxidizing actually), so I want to make sure they have fixed that issue as well.

2. 
   highfigh | Jul 30, 2007 11:46am | #17

   I'm probably going to pizz off a lot of people here but...We need to buy the American tools so we don't become dependent on foreign suppliers, not just because we blindly think the American ones are made better (nice thought but not necessarily accurate). Thinking our stuff is made better is what got us in trouble with cars in the '70s. The Big 3 made crap, we bought it and thought ours were better only because they were American Made. They weren't, we started buying foreign and now, how well are the Big 3 doing, and who owns Chrysler? There's really not much a Chinese assembler can mess up in putting a router together if it was designed well in the first place (unless they throw the parts around like a bunch of children). They're inspected to the same standards, often by Americans or American trained inspectors. The only reason for Makita, Bosch and other foreign companies to make their tools here is so they can avoid paying duties, tariffs and shipping, just like anything else. Remember, we're not usually talking about American companies, now that the consolidation of companies is as advanced as it is. Most are just owned by foreign holding companies.You really think American factory workers are that much better than foreign? Do you know anyone who works in a factory and really strives to do everything well or are they more interested in their paycheck and benefits?"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

   Edited 7/30/2007 4:52 am by highfigh

3. 
   generalkael | Jun 22, 2005 07:29pm | #4

   I have a Bosch 1617 and have used a number of other routers so here's what I have to say. The only router that I've used that's better is the PC. It's true that you can't mount the 1617 plunge base under a router table, but swapping it with the normal base is cake. I would recommend getting the EVS model of the 1617.

4. 
   Oakman608 | Jun 22, 2005 08:23pm | #6

   I used the Bosch 1617 (fixed base) in a router table for 4 or 5 years.  It worked fine, but was a little underpowered with large bits.  I burned out two on/off switches in this time, probably a result of pushing the router too hard.

   I switched to the Bosch 1619 in the table and have been very happy with it for the last three years.  The 1617 now does the lighter duty hand-held jobs, and I have not had any more problems with the switch.

   On the 1617, the magnesium housing does develop a small amount of corrosion.  Periodically I take it out of the base and clean up the corrosion with an abrasive pad, and then apply paste wax to allow for smooth adjustments.

5. 
   douglas2cats | Jun 23, 2005 04:40am | #11

   Just FYI - the Hitachi M12VR is often available re-conditioned thru Amazon. They don't appear to have any at the moment, but you might be able to pick up a good deal there if one pops up.

   Waddaya mean it wont fit through the door?

6. 
   Ricks503 | Jun 23, 2005 07:32pm | #14

   I do not have one, but have heard good reports on the Triton from Australia.

   I think Woodcraft may sell them, I saw one at my local one a couple of months ago. Triton also makes a router table.  As mentioned, the big brutes can cause some sagging of the table top over time unless the table is beefed up with extra bracing.

   Here are a couple of links on the triton. I just did a google on TRITON ROUTER

   http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/TritonRouter/TritonRouterReview.html

   http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/tritonrouter.htm

   http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/ezine/archive/53/toolpreview.cfm

   http://www.woodworkingtools.net/monthy.htm

   And Yes, Woodcraft does sell them also

   http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=5012&FamilyID=4519

   1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go        4 - get a new board and go back to step 1

   
   

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   Edited 6/23/2005 12:37 pm ET by Rick503

1. 
   ohcomeon | Jun 24, 2005 06:49pm | #15

   Does anyone know the specs on the Makita panel raising bit set that is being offered with the 3612?  They show a small picture, but I can't find any info on them (dimensions).

   At this point, if they are bits that I will use I'm thinking $205 after rebate and free bits is the route I will go.  The M12V is cheaper, but once I buy panel raising bits it would be a wash, or more.  Plus, the whole Chinese Hitachi thing has me a bit bummed.

   Thanks for everyone's help and feedback.