I am in the process of restoring an old Bailey #3 and could use some help and advice. Completely disassembled the plane, honed bottom, etc – I bought and honed/sharpened a new Hock blade, too. I have been using Garret Wade’s book as a reference. Now I’m having trouble with setup and performance. The primary issue seems to be the location of the frog. When I reinstall in, it seems that I can’t get it close enough to the front of the plane bed to narrow the mouth opening sufficiently. Following the recommendations, I would like to narrow the mouth opening to be able to set the plane for finer shavings, but even with the frog is pushed all the way forward, I still end up with a large gap between the front of the blade bevel and the front of the mouth opening. As a result, in testing it out last night, I’m getting alot of chattering and skipping. Any suggestions on what to try next?
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Replies
Hmm, something don't sound right. With my two type 11 #3's they are both adjusted so that there is about 1/32" clearance and there is still plenty of adjustment room left. Both have the original 1/16" thick blade installed. Are maybe the frog washers blocking forward travel?
What type (era, vintage) is yours? Does it have the frog adjustment screw behind the frog? Are you sure it is the correct frog?
PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
PlaneWood
It apparently is a fairly old vintage, I estimate very early 1900's based upon the casting for where the frog is seated and the design of the lever cap (not kidney shaped). I have a new Hock blade, I use a set of japanese wetstones with a jig so it's pretty sharp. The bevel's definitely facing down. The washers for the frog screws don't appear to be a problem, the limiting factor seems to be the slots in the frog. No way can I get the blade far enough forward to achieve a 1/32" clearance. Its always possible that I'm doing something stupid, but I've studied Hack's book pretty closely.
I'm going to spend more time working on this problem this weekend - if I can't figure it out, I might want to send it off to you to see if you can restore it. Will let you know what happens...
Do you have access to a digital camera?
PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood
I do have access to a digital camera - I will post a few pictures and see if that helps you all understand what is happening. I did spend some time working on this yesterday, a few of the comments were helpful. I removed the washers from the frog screws, that enabled me to get the frog somewhat closer. She's working better but still not where I'd like it to be.
By the way, thanks to all of you for your comments and suggestions - it's hard to realize just how valuable this forum is until you run into a problem yourself!
Ben,
I just went through my Bailey collection and measured the throat widths. The measurements ranged from about 5/32" for my early type 6 No 4 to 7/32" on an otherwise mint type 19 no 4 that some *&%#! filed the mouth open on.
I suggest that you simply measure the width of the throat of your #3 and compare with these values. If it is as high as 7/32" or higher, I would guess the throat has been filed. Otherwise it is still a mystery.
You indicated that you have installed a Hock blade. Most likely this blade is even thicker than the original, which should help the situation. If your throat has been filed open, it must be quite large.
Tony
I hope you'll forgive me if this seems obvious. Is the iron installed with the bevel down? If your plane has a frog adjusting screw under the depth adjustment knob, is the saddle on the back of the frog seated in the groove in the screw.
You didn't say how much sharpening experience you have. Does the iron's edge catch on your finger nail? How deep do you have the iron set? Once the iron and cap iron are properly locked in the plane and the frog is properly seated, back the iron off to where it's not cutting then, while moving the plane forward on some smooth wood, slowly lower the iron with the adjusting knob until it's barely removing anything. Take a few passes and you should be getting tissue thin shavings.
I assume you mean Garrett Hack's book.
The blade is definitely bevel down, I don't have an adjustment screw at the back of the frog. The plane is apparently quite old, based on the casting for seting the frog and the shape of the lever cap hole (not kidney-shaped) appears to be very early 1900's. Blade is very sharp - new Hack blade which I've sharpened on a set of japanese wetstones. I did mean to say Hack's book, not Wade.
Ben,
Is it possible that some previous owner filed the throat? I found an old #4 in which some devious person had filed the throat wide open. Apparently it was used as a scrub plane; the iron had a bigger arc in it than I would expect on a smoother. That's about the only thing I can think of that might be causing your trouble--assuming everything else is in order. If that's the case I have no idea of what you can do to remedy it.
Alan
Hi Ben/others,
Alot of good information here. For mine, I can not see how a wide mouth would affect chattering - but I can see how it affects the quality of cut.
Regarding chattering and skipping, focussing on the original problem, here are some suggestions off the top of my head:
1) Is the lever cap tight enough to stop you from pushing the blade heel sideways with hand pressure, or;
2) Is the frog buckled/twisted, or;
3) When you have the frog screws done up tightly, can the frog still move, even slightly, or;
4) When the frog is set fully forward, is there any support for the blade from the plane sole, or is there approx 1/4" of free blade between the cutting edge and the nearest support from the frog. If this is the case, try bringing the frog backwards, aligned with the plane sole to improve support, or;
5) Blunt blades cause skipping as well as other things mentioned in earlier posts. Try planing with the blade skewed to see if this is the cause.
Hope this helps you with the problem.
Cheers, eddie
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