OK, here we go, one last time on the dog holes … errr squares. What’s the general consensus — or is there one — on dog holes in workbench tops — square or round or both?
I am on the verge of cutting these holes in my benchtop. Fine Woodworking’s plans seem to call for a series of 1″ SQUARE dogholes for most of the bench, directly behind the larger end vise and 3/4″ round dogholes behind the smaller front vise. Also the plans are not clear on hole spacing, although it’s obvious that the three or four holes in the vise have to line-up with the holes in the benchtop.
I can’t locate 1″ square metal dogholes – these are big babys — but did buy a set of 1/2″ x 3/4″ metal dogs with a side spring and brass top, requiring a rectangular hole. However, the directions say the top has to be at least 3 1/2″ thick to work with these (it wasn’t mentioned in the specs when I bought them), but my top is 2 1/2″ thick.
Another thing (!) …drilling or mortising the dogholes in a 6 5/8″ high vise is going to be a lot of fun. I’m not sure my drill press or mortiser has the reach for this. Hello?
Any advise from more experienced woodworkers will be greatly appreciated. Oh, as for the twisted apron, yes I am remaking that baby by laminating 3 leftover maple boards from the top lamination!
–Louis
Replies
I drilled round holes using a pistol drill and a store-bought jig to keep is square to the table top. Pretty darn easy using forster bits. Even in 3" sugar maple.
I don't see the advantage in square over round. But if square floats your boat and you have a lot of time, why not?
Brent
I made my bench with square holes and use wooden dogs. This seems to work well for me and the dogs are easy to make when needen.
How do you keep the wooden dogs from slipping in the holes? Just make them oversize?
Dogs should have a "spring" attached to one side. Just a piece of wood screwed to the side of the dog. Cut the "spring" side of the dog at an angle, attach the spring. It should be enough friction to hold the dog in place til you clamp a board to it.
The shape is hard to describe but think of an upside down L. The "foot" of the L is a little thicker and sits in a cutout in the dog hole. To use the dog I pop it up, turn it 180 degrees and drop it back into the hole. This way I don't need springs or other things like that. Another way to describe the dog would be to say that the dog was 3 or 4 inches long by 3/4 square with a 3/4 by 1 1/2 top. the top will fit into a square socket so that the top os the dog is flush with the top of the bench and the remainder of the dog drops through the dog hole.
That sounds like a plan. If I make the dogs from black walnut 3/4" x 3/4" with an extra 3/4" at the top to fit the cut-out in the workbench top, that should be plenty strong, no (Scheining's plans call for a 1" x 1" dog)? I like the idea of raising and rotating the dogs so the lip sits on the benchtop, sounds easier with less fuss.
I made mine of maple (like the bench top) but I think walnut would work very well
For square mortises that large and deep, I think I would cut a dado across one board before gluing another to that side making up the 4th side, and the thickness that I wanted.
My opinion only. DO NOT drill a bunch of holes.. I for one like square head dogs with round pegs... Only drill into your bench as you find the need for a new dog placement. As in over time for your type of work.
Where do get a square headed dog with a round pin shaft? I'm thinking you're a turner?
You can buy square headed dogs with round pins in plastic. Think B&D Workmate - they came with 4 of them.I for one took Will's advice last year and only drill the holes I need. This of cause puts me squarely in the round hole camp.
Where do get a square headed dog with a round pin shaft? I'm thinking you're a turner?
No turner cept fer my little wood lathe. Good enought to make bench pegs...
Taut so William ...!
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