Replies

1. 
   lwilliams | May 01, 2011 08:53am | #1

   Just went through this. Don't just replace the bearings, replace the whole arbor assembly. It runs about $120 for the arbor assembly. The illustrated parts breakdown that came with my 1982 saw didn't show the snap rings that lock the parts in place, there's a better one on the OWM web site. Fine dust that accumulates over time around the bearings collect enough moisture from the atmosphere that the interference fit of the bearings incredibly tight and it takes a lot of force to remove the arbor assembly. Enough that you'll probably distort the arbor when it's pressed out. Take the whole cast iron arm from the saw so that you can get it to a good press to get the arbor assembly out, my 3 ton arbor press wouldn't budge it and I used my mechanic's 30 ton press to get it apart.

2. 
   hammer1 | May 01, 2011 09:12am | #2

   10 minutes in a 200 degree oven can work wonders on stuck bearings.

1. 
   PaulCGray | May 02, 2011 08:20pm | #3

   Not sure how to proceed

   Based on the serial number - 2661320 - I think it is a 1972 machine, so 39 years old.

   I had thought to replace the bearings, just due to the age.  However, a highly accurate dial indicator shows less that .001 runout on the arbor flange.  Also, with the dial indicator in position, I tried to move the arbor by hand; left to right and up and down.  I saw almost no movement on the indicator needle, certainly less than .001.  On the other hand, the bearings are a bit noisy when I rotate the arbor by hand.  No stiff points or "catch" points in the rotation, just noisy like the bearings are lacking lubrication.  What do you think?

   Another question: my saw is driven by three belts.  Most of the Model 66 material I look up on line shows 2 belts.  Add to that, the motor and arbor pulleys are for sure out of alignment - the belts were running at an angle easily perceived by eye.  But the pulleys do not have enough room on the shafts for adjustment (assuming I could move them) to improve the alignment.  Possible it was converted from 2 belts to 3 belts for some reason?  The only remedy I see is to add spacers between the motor and motor mount.  What do you think?

   By the way, I bought this saw a few years ago from a farmer who had it in a barn out in East Texas.  It was complete except for the safety devices and miter gage.  Has worked well since I brought it home.  Getting ready to start a new project and thought I should tune it up, or even rebuild it.  Now I am not so sure.  Seems like they are made so robust that rebuilding might not be needed.  Starting to think I just need to clean it well, lube with dry teflon and get on with it.

    

   I do appreciate your advice.

   Paul 

1. 
   hammer1 | May 04, 2011 09:57am | #4

   I guess, "if it ain't broke,

   I guess, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" can apply. One of my hobbies is restoring old motorcycles. When I have the motors apart, I usually replace the bearings, even though it might not be necessary. It's a heck of a job to go back in and effects a bunch of other parts and seals, not to mention polish and paint. Not so with a saw. Use it and fix it, if and when.