OK, guys, I’m getting into this mobile base thing after receiving the Delta base for my Unisaw. So! What base would you recommend for a lathe? Jet 1236 to be specific, thusly….
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forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
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Hi there FG .You are really trying to head in the wrong direction thinking of mobile bases.With a lathe one is looking for stability.I would be thinking of ways of adding 2or 3 hundred pounds of ballast(sand) to the base.Unless of course you are going to turn stick pens.You will find that with lathes of that type they dance enough to make your turning far more difficult than it need be.Try to find a location that can be permanant.Also while you are designing consider your stature. From the your profile it is impossible to guess your elbow height relative to the centres <g>(plug for more revealing pix!!!).You may need to add risers to get the height comfortable.Have fun turning , Jako
Edited 5/15/2008 3:09 am ET by jako17
Hi, Jako. Tiny pens probably aren't my style, but neither are big bowls. I suspect it'll be smallish decorative stuff to maybe a medium-sized bowl. No bikini-pics, but I'm 5'7" with a bad back so I prefer not to bend over in a static position at all, so tools need to fit that height requirement. Looking at the retractable add-on casters now (see following posts).forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Well I tried to spice up knots with a few pix but there you go.Just try it slowly with some wet wood then speed it up incrementally and see. However if your back is a trouble be very careful to get the centre height good.I like to it to be about elbow ht.I have been turning some rough edge bowls with voids about 8" dia and 6" h they are off balance and to get the wall thickness 1/8" you need a high speed.My lathe is a Graduate which weighs about 300lbs and it dances
You'll be hearing from me when(ever) I finally get to trying out the lathe. This horse-training stuff has gotten me completely out of the shop for months, but I'm finally getting acclimated to being so busy, and the weather's turning good, light 'til 9pm soon, so I'll be workin' 12-hour days.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Maybe you can convince the horses to move your tools around for you. While you're at it, see if they're willing to adjust the height of your router bits too!Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
As the other poster said, I wouldn't use a traditional mobile base for a lathe -- not stable enough. However someone (Shop Fox?) makes casters that you attach the the feet of the tool. They lower and raise the tool when you step on them. Otherwise, the tool simply rests on it's own legs. I have a set on my band saw and they work pretty well for the occasional trip to the center of the shop floor. I got them at Woodcraft, IIRC.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Yep, those casters might work. Don't know if the angle of the legs on the lathe is vastly different from that on a contractor saw, probably doesn't make a difference, right? Keeping Jako's post in mind about finding a permanent locaation, I could get those casters to keep me sane while I'm configuring the shop around the Unisaw and new electrical layout [try it here, no -- try it there, etc., etc.] Wouldn't cost too much.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
For many years, due to space limitations, I had casters on my lathe so I could move it out of the way when it was not in use. When in use, I clamped the base to my 350 pound workbench, which stabilized it to my satisfaction.
After checking out those retractable casters at Woodcraft, which I'd seen before, I'm doubtful the round-wheel type would work well on our rough, bumpy garage floor. But even if that weren't a problem, the other concern would be when the casters are engaged one at a time, would it be a bad thing for the lathe as it's twisted and tweaked?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I have the ones like in the previous poster's pic. I use them on a bumpy garage shop floor as well, and don't really have any problem with the floor. They do tend to hang up if they hit a wood scrap, tho'. I don't think I'd worry about lifting one leg at a time -- the lathe's casting should be stiff enough not to get warped by that small of a lifting difference (only about 1/2" IIRC). The stand will flex enough to compensate.
Hey, maybe you could get a head start on your next TS by picking up a SawStop mobile base! Those look really nice -- hydraulic lift. Too cool. ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
"Previous poster" = Moi, LOL. So, it sounds like quality of that ball caster is a bit better than some cheap piece of plastic that you might find at WalMart? Can't tell by looking at the pic....
Yep, 1/2" wouldn't mess things up. No SawStop base for me, the Delta is put together and lookin' good. Different story, maybe, if I'm able to upgrade to the actual SawStop saw next year.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Retractable castors only.
Greg
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Exo 35:30-35
That used Jet lathe that I bought came with Fox Shop mobil bases on both legs. The owner used it that way and put sand bags on them. I don't like the set up at all. Way to wobbley all around. I am going to break out the metal tools and modify them.
I will sketch you out something this weekend. I want a caster that bolts to the base and is pushed down to work, and then retracts to set the Jet base solid on the floor. I might even drill some holes in my concrete floor and expoxy in some All Thread couplings. Then I can bolt it down, but not end up with a trip hazard. Plastic plug will keep debris out.
So everything in my shop is mobil, and the floor slopes over 3" in 20 ft. Ihave built everything as if the floor was level. The cabinets above are built and mounted square and plumb. Sure looks goofy, but when you role it around it needs to function in another orientation..... The mobil chop saw will look even goofier.
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Azmo, these might work for you:
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You can get them at Woodcraft, not sure who else might carry something similar. Don't see them on Amazon. Downside might be the type of caster that's on it. Now that I look at it, doubt it would work well on our rough concrete floor.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 5/15/2008 11:32 am by forestgirl
Edited 5/15/2008 11:39 am by forestgirl
make a shelf out of some mdf or plywood - double thickness and mount it a top the stretchers on the stand. you can use it to put some extra weight on the lathe or store tools.
I put the spring action casters on my delta 12" lathe (pretty much identical to yours) - they work fine, but I have a wood floor. I set mine so they don't raise it too much.
I'm sorely in need of storage space, so shelving across the lathe is a "must do." That will help keep the thing from being tippy in addition to reducing any vibration. Thanks, JQ.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie,
I got around to doing a sketch for my lath base. I have scanned it and attached it. I would like to say it is original, but I remember seeing it somewhere in the library of wood books I own.
I am tall, 6'2 so I find a lot of tools are set to low. So this will work for me. You could recess the legs into the timber if you need. I have chunks of timbers on job sites I can use or you could buy a landscape timber at the Home Repo. This will give some mass on the bottom, a nice flat pad with a bicycle inner tube nailed on the bottom so it doesn't slide so much.
One of your earlier posters wanted to fix the shaft, and then just pick up the tail stock which is easy for me but maybe your back would protest. You could use a cordless drill and a socket to raise and lower this. You can do matching ends, or retro fit one of the foot lift single casters you posted to move the tail stock end.
Sand bags on the bottom shelf, tools on the upper shelf and you are set. I also seem to remember some holes drilled into the timbers for some poles with lights on them. Can ever get enough light!
I will shoot you a picture when I get mine done but that will be awhile.... Several items in front of it. Do you have pictures of your shop posted elsewhere? I have just seen the lath shot.
Morgan Sorry the attachment came up wrong and I will repost seperate.... grr <!----><!----><!---->
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Edited 5/17/2008 9:04 am by AZMO
Edited 5/17/2008 9:05 am by AZMO
Lath Base Attachment
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Edited 5/17/2008 9:08 am by AZMO
Hi, Azmo, thanks. I could probably do the lifting -- back is funny, some lifting is OK, but can't buck hay any longer. Static bending is murder on it, though. It's a case by case thing.
No current pics of my shop -- note my disclaimer above, the pic of the lathe was not taken in my shop, it has never looked so clean, LOL!
In general, I like the 3-wheel approach, it's one Sarge favors and brought my attention to. Two fixed wheels and one swivel, doesn't work on all tools, but it's probably what I'll do with my jointer.
Will keep my eye out for the pics, whenever they may arrive!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The footprint of most mobile bases are wider than the stand itself, so stability wouldn't be a problem there.
Mobile bases have been much on my mind lately. I made one for my lathe yesterday, but I don't know how well it's going to work.
I just received the Delta universal base for my bandsaw, but I haven't put it together yet. It looks well made.
It'd be easy enough to make a new stand to address the height issue. Anything from a simple plywood box to a more elaborate cabinet with storage for ballast and accessories.
I have a couple of Shop Fox bases. They're sturdy, but the quality control isn't the best.
Nothing would be done at all if a man waited till he could do it so well
that no one could find fault with it.—John Cardinal Newman
Disputantum Semirotten Woodworking
Although I work in a small shop, I don't like mobile bases where the wheels remain in contact with the floor at all times (locking castors) due to their tendancy to shift. For a lathe, which doesn't require infeed or outfeed space, I would find an out-of-the-way location with good lighting and leave it there.
Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Hi, Chris. At some point, I'm sure I'll be able to do the permanent thing, but there's so much work to do in there this summer, much of which will involve moving tools out of the way here, out of the way there, I need some mobility. The lathe is the only tool I can't move by myself right now.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Chris, I have read your web site and you work outside turning bowls. Do you drag the thing around or is this the Canadian version of weightliftin?
ON another note, your advice on stones is right on. I have been sharpening my LA veritas with a 4000 and 8000 Norton. Wow is all I can say. "Its so shiny I can see myself" Now if I can just keep from dropin it on the floor.
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The lathe weighs about 110 lbs (estimating based on my DW735), which I regularly have to move around. My outdoors set up involved my old lathe stand which was separate from the lathe. I'd take the lathe off the stand, move the stand outside, and drop the lathe on top. The lathe isn't something I'd want to carry around too far, but I can manage it. It helps that it's more compact than the planer, too, which is a hassle.
I'm not and have never been a big guy. All this handplaning and lugging tools has to account for something, though (not to mention mountain biking - or hiking while carrying the bike as often results).
Which type of steel did you choose for the plane blade? I use O1 (softer) steel and find that I can touch up the microbevel in a couple strokes on the microbevel at 8000x and a couple on the back to remove the burr. I figure that I can get the blade out of the plane, honed razor sharp, and back in the plane in less than 90 seconds. And all without cutting myself!Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Here's what I did with my Nova lathe. I work in a garage where every machine is mobile. I bought the mobile system at Woodcraft where you put the four wheels on a 3/4 in piece of plywood, cut to fit your base. My lathe base needed 57" long and 20" wide. I attached the 4 wheels (2 are fixed wheels and 2 are on a swivel with step on locks), and then I laminated another sheet of plywood cut to clear the 4 wheel assemblies. It works great and is very solid. What's better is that I can move my heavy lathe anywhere in the garage. I actually push it outside into the driveway to use it. That keeps the woodschips out of the garage.
Don
Hi, Don. That's this batch of hardware, right?View Image Not sure I follow how you did it, but sounds like it works great. That item is on sale right now for $10 off right now. Why does Woodcraft say that the max size is 37"x37"???forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I have a mobile base for my Delta lathe made by Delta. It is the type with 2 wheels below the headstock and 1 caster at the other end. If you can find a base like this it should work fairly well. If I had my druthers it would not be on a mobile base but with the lack of space most of my big tools are mobile. One thing to be very careful of is that the lathe is very top heavy. After moving it around the first few days I almost dumped it on the floor.
GW & FG, I used that Delta kit with oak rails and it sags and drags at the single jack up wheel on the tailstock end . I feared the long sides would be a problem but it seems that the single wheel mount causes the sag( flex) due to the bolt holes that I did with no slop using transfer punches and a good drill press. If I find a final place for the lathe I will drop the wheel stuff but I need to move it till then -or walk around it every day- as I finalize the DC system. If I keep it on those wheels I will either laminate a 1/4" x 1 1/2" steel bar with 1" lags on the oak to make it stiff or get another wheel ####'y ( edit- assembly)from Delta and put them in the corners as it's a little tippy with one in the center. It supports the old Sears "Professional" 15" x 38" variable sheave speed set up and it one of the few sears tools that they didn't spare the cast iron-this thing is heavy. Paddy.
Edited 5/15/2008 8:29 pm ET by PADDYDAHAT
Hi, Paddy. I don't think I'd be tempted to use oak rails for something as long as a lathe. I can see that style for a relatively small, square-footprint tool.
My bandsaw is currently on a Somona mobile base, picked it up locally at Sumner Woodworks awhile back. Pretty nice, solid base. Would buy another one, good for the jointer.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG, for that Samona base, does the rear of the base sit on the wheels or on the frame when the front casters are not engaged?
The back sits on rigid casters, the frame is just off the ground the way the caster plate is designed. It's a nice heavily-built base. I first saw one when a friend put his General contractor saw on one.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,
Picking up on Len's idea, I'd do an interim thing. Put the lathe on a good pallet with 200lb. casters on each corner. Make sure the pallet is large enough that you can stand on the pallet when working... .then you can always add weight for more stability and keep the whole unit mobileOnce you find a suitable location...I built another work bench with nested drawers underneath for storage and put the lathe on top of that.
Hi, BG. Well, sorry to you and Len, but I just ordered the retractable casters from Woodcraft. That'll be a quick and not too expensive fix (can get decent casters anywhere near where I live, have to go mail order). They're being shipped from the Woodcraft over in Seattle, so they'll be here Monday. If they seem like a permanent solution, all's the better, and if not, I'll use them through the summer and then sell 'em off to the highest bidder.
I'm still going to put a nice heavy shelf in there though and find stuff to put on it, not hard at all, that.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Yeah, "scooting" definitely doesn't work in my shop! I'll be careful, and probably add some balast via a shelf with heavy stuff on it.
Jamie,
Here's my two cents. Two sheets of plywood glued and screwed together. Mount it to the lathe stand. Buy some heavy duty locking casters from Grizzly and mount them to the plywood. Not necessarily in that order. If you just need to move it around for a summer, go simple and cheap.
I know you. You'll fill the bottom up with stuff, so it will plenty stable. LOL.
Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
I have been using a similar lathe with a simple set of lawnmower wheels on a simple axel mounted through the legs of the lathe on the moter end. The wheels lift the moter end of the lathe about 1/4" and I use the tailstock end of the lathe as a handle when when I wheel it outside on a good morning. I have been turning with this setup for a year now and only had a problem when I tried to turn a burl that was way to big and unballanced for the lathe. (The direction of wheel roll is 90 degrees from 90 percent of the movement.)
Sounds like a good home-made solution! I'm saving our derelict mower wheels for a compressor cart. There was one part of your post that went over my head, perhaps you can help me out: "(The direction of wheel roll is 90 degrees from 90 percent of the movement.)"forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I think that he means the wheels he put on the lathe run the same way as the bed. 90 percent of the forces applied to the lathe are perpendicular to the direction of the wheels.
If that doesn't make sense, think about which way the lathe wants to move when you stick an out-of-balance bowl blank on the lathe. The lathe wants to rock forwards (towards you) and backwards. The wheels roll side to side, which resists movement during use.
Comprendez?Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
I agree with the others that having the lathe anchored to the Floor and/or loaded with sandbags is the best but this simple set of wheels will do 99% of what I do. If I am going to turn a large off center piece (I probably shouldn't be doing it on this inexpensive lathe anyhow) I will block the wheels and load it up with sandbags or steel.Those of you who have your lathe bolted to the floor will likely never get to enjoy the feel of the sun on your back, perfect lighting at the bottom of that deep vase and the clean fresh ribbons of cut material just flowing off of it. Or the added benefit of the light breeze carrying off the sanding dust so you don't have to sweep the shop. ;-)
Edited 5/20/2008 5:26 pm ET by chris910
That's neat, Chris, gives me an inkling of an idea. When my brain starts working again (little oopsie Tues., got me on drugs for a few days) I'll let you know if it looks good. Thanks!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Man your shop is clean! You make me sick ;-). I have a knock-off that is identical to your jet only green instead of blue. I like the lathe but i had a serious problem when turning large bowl blanks and vigrations. THe lathe walked accross the floor....one alternative to a mobile base, ha, ha. ;-) Seriously I am not a fan of mobile bases just due to vibrations conditions. A lathe need a very stable and heavy base that will sit still during unbalanced turning siturations, some of which is with rough blanks and some intentional off-center turning. So, I would not put a lathe on wheels. I can sit against the wall only taking up a 2x4 foot area which is not obtrusive even in a small shop like mine (two car garage).
Happy Chips
Oh, Pete, I should put a disclaimer on that picture of the lathe -- that's the picture of it when it was for sale on Craig's List, sitting in the previous owner's shop (a very tiny, extreeeeeeeeemly clean, shop). Too funny, wish I could lay claim to the pristine environment.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie, I acutally found the article with the lathe base I sketched for you. Not sure if you are still interested, but I could scan and email to you. Let me know.
PS who was Don anyway, must have been booted before I showed up, newbie dat I am.
Morgan
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Well, newbie that you are, you're fortunate you didn't land on his bad side by asking a "stupid" question. I liked Don, make no mistake, but he got very strange all of a suddeen, and it was quite unpleasant for someone who accidentally asked a question he didn't consider up to his own IQ standards.
It turns out that the frame-attached casters don't fit my lathe stand, though I may add a metal plate to each end to solve the problem, but yes, I'd be interested in your solution also. Thanks!!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Sometimes it is fun to play with kittens and sometimes with cats and sometimes with tigers.
Check you email box.
Morgan <!----><!----><!---->
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As an old metal worker I'd say bolt it to the cement floor! Lathe vibration can make a good lathe turn out less quality work than it could really do. I agree with the other post. Sandbags or whatever to stabilize it.. However if you have to move it.. Then..
I would say not to anyway! I know I joke around a 'bit' but you really need a stable footing for a lathe. Not that it will not work otherwise. It will just work better!
AND YES.. My TS... I move it around all the time on a mobile base (factory one) Yes my Junk Ridgid saw which I LIKE ALOT. However, a lathe has different forces working against you. My humble opinion only.
Edited 5/20/2008 4:16 am by WillGeorge
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