Replies

1. 
   BG | May 31, 2004 07:33pm | #1

   Steve,

   If your moldings are shattering on the power miter saw...you need to put solid wood ehind the cutting area.  Build a 90 degree jig for the molding to rest on when you plunge the miter saw.  The jig can be as simple as two boards nailed perpendicular to each other.(ie. forming a right angle).  Make them long enough so that you can put a stop on the far end to control the length.  Hope this helps...if its your problem...
1. 
   steve1753 | May 31, 2004 07:53pm | #3

   My problem is setting up th miter saw properly. If I set the cut to 45 degrees with no bevel the corners do not align.If I set the Cut to 45 degrees with any angle bevel it only gets worse.How should I set the saw to get a proper fit.

1. 
   mike4244 | May 31, 2004 09:39pm | #4

   Simple solution, first make sure the saw cuts perfect 45* . If not the fence has to be adjusted in relation to the blade. Take a wide board , cut 45* on two pieces, place them together so they form a 90*. Check with a good square.

   Now if the saw is set up correctly go to the outside corner you are trying to miter. Place a bevel square on the corner, divide the angle in half. Buy an angle divider, the one I use is about $10.00. The degree markings on mine are not accurate at all, I do not use them. I divide the angle by placing this tool against the bevel square , then transfer it to the saw. Place divder against fence and line up with an edge of the plastic insert, DO NOT line up with the saw kerf, not accurate enough. Now assume the the swing of the blade reads 45*, set the saw for slightly more than 45*, I use a milwaukee slide saw that locks any place without jumping into the detent. Many saws will jump into the detent when you attempt to lock it . If this is the case, snug the locking handle a little or if no locking handle cut anyway. Do each miter same way. Each miter will be slightly more than 45* ( 45 1/2* maybe )the corner will come out perfect, the front will touch, the back theorectically will be open . You cannot see any open joint , with or without glasses. I cope the inside corners but they may be mitered if you wish.

   I forgot to mention the blade has to be square with the table too. If you have a compound mitersaw follow manual for your saw to adjust 90* stop.

   mike

2. 
   maple | Jun 01, 2004 10:19am | #8

   I had problems with my saw until I spent some time cutting samples and trying them.  I do lots of picture frames, and can check the corners in the mitre vise.  When my saw blade is swung to the left (45 degree angle), it needs a hair more to make it 45, so I marked the guide.  But, a mitre vise makes it easy....doing trim work in houses is lots more time consuming, when you want perfect corners!

2. 
   nikkiwood | May 31, 2004 07:35pm | #2

   Corners (inside or outside) are often not a true 90 degrees, and in that case you should try adjusting the cut slightly -- say, by a 1/2 degree on either piece. In these situations it helps to use scrap pieces for trial cuts until you get it right.

   For architectual woodwork, the usual technique is to cope the moldings -- instead of using a mitre cut.

3. 
   Joe_Fusco | May 31, 2004 09:56pm | #5

   Steve,

   It's hard to tell just what is really going on. I'll assume the saw is not set correctly and that none of the corners are true. When you cut left and right 45's with a zero bevel angle and place them to an outside corner, what happens?

   Is the joint open at the tip of the quarter round and touching at the back near the moulding or is the opposite true?

   If the tip is touching that means that either the corner is greater then 90 ° or the saw is cutting an angle larger then 45°.

   If the back is touching it means that the corner is less then 90° or that the saw is cutting angle less then 45°.

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4. 
   CarpenterJC | Jun 01, 2004 02:38am | #6

   Most "1/4 Round" isnt really a true 1/4 round..generally one edge is wider than the other..maybe at the mill it wasnt run with the same machine or whatever..anyway..when I run 1/4 round..I always mark it so that I Miter it on the same face side/edge against My fence on My saw..if its different..it wont fit right..hope this helps.

                                                                            JC

1. 
   Dave45 | Jun 01, 2004 07:08am | #7

   You beat me to that one, Carpenter.  I almost went bananas several years ago before I figured that out. - lol