Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Sep 01, 2008 04:06pm | #1

   pcm,

   You are talking about triangular wooden glue blocks?  If so, use hot hide glue, and a simple rub joint, omit the brad altogether.  The glue alone will do the job.

   Ray

    

1. 
   PCM | Sep 01, 2008 08:39pm | #2

   Ray,

   Thanks for your reply.

   Will the solidly glued block allow the mirror some small amount of movement in the frame? The brads securing the glue blocks usually seem to be slightly loose, allowing the mirror and frame to adjust .

   "Wedges" was the wrong word, it is hot and humid here (SE GA)!

   Or a better way of asking my question: should the glue blocks be slightly raised from the mirror or should they be snug?  

   Pete 

   Edited 9/1/2008 2:25 pm ET by PCM

1. 
   joinerswork | Sep 02, 2008 03:53pm | #8

   PCM,

   The old frames I have examined have had the mirror solidly fixed in place.  The bevel on the edge of the glue block is self adjusting as it were, so that any gap between the edge of the mirror and the inside of the rabbet is taken up by the taper of the bevelled block.  There is little need for allowance for movement-- a frame is pretty dimensionally stable as far as the size of the rabbet is concerned, and the glass doesn't typically experience significant repeated temperature swings.

   If you are dealing with an old mirror that has a true silvered back, I'd be very cautious about allowing any metal come in contact with it.  That surface can be extremely delicate, and anything like a glazing point or fender washer could easily scrape the silvering off.  Modern mirror backing is more forgiving of rough treatment.

   Ray 

1. 
   PCM | Sep 02, 2008 07:32pm | #9

   Ray,

   I concur on both points, and will try the glue block method.

   Thank you again.

   Pete

1. 
   joinerswork | Sep 03, 2008 03:57pm | #14

   You're welcome, PC.

   Ray

2. 
   WillGeorge | Sep 03, 2008 04:39am | #13

   I agree for what that is worth!

1. 
   joinerswork | Sep 03, 2008 03:59pm | #15

   Hi Will,

   You agree with me?  Yikes!  Now I'm worried!

   haha,

   Ray

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Sep 01, 2008 08:43pm | #3

   Pete,

   There is a special tool available for that purpose.  It works well.  http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32120&cat=1,43293

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   PCM | Sep 01, 2008 09:27pm | #4

   Thanks!

   I will give it serious consideration.

   Pete

   I just went out to the shop, and I think gap between mirror and frame precludes glaziers points/triangles.

   Edited 9/1/2008 2:44 pm ET by PCM

3. 
   bricofleur | Sep 02, 2008 01:26am | #5

   Hi Pete,

   I secured all the mirrors I made with a bead of silicone. I learned that from a craftsman in a windows/mirrors shop/store. When the silicone has dried, you can feel a "solid" bond from the mirror to the frame. No rattle at all !

   Find attached the last one I made. Too bad you can't see the back !

   Best,

   Serge

   - Learn from yesterday, work today, and enjoy success tomorrow -

   http://www.atelierdubricoleur.org moving to

   http://www.atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

   
1. 
   PCM | Sep 02, 2008 07:38pm | #11

   Serge,

   Thank you. I will keep this method in mind.

   Pete

4. 
   sfmc | Sep 02, 2008 02:30am | #6

   Use a Forstner bit to overlap the edge of the rabbet and use that size fender washer and a screw to secure the mirror to the frame drilling it just deep enough to be level with the frame.

    

   We get to soon oldt und to late schmart

1. 
   PCM | Sep 02, 2008 07:35pm | #10

   I have seen this method, but the metal scratched the silvered backing on the mirror. Maybe put some felt under the washer?

   Thanks.

   Pete

5. 
   peakbagger | Sep 02, 2008 05:05am | #7

   A bead of silicone in front and put in a few glazing points with a 1 inch putty knife.

1. 
   PCM | Sep 02, 2008 07:40pm | #12

   The gap between the frame and mirror is usually too wide to use glaziers points.

   Thanks!

    

6. 
   stantheman | Sep 03, 2008 04:32pm | #16

   PCM

   I like to use the metal "z"-shaped clips that are sold as mirror-retainers.  I found them at my local hardware store in the fastener section.  They function like the figure-8 clips for securing table tops, but have only one screw hole and a double bend to offset from back of frame.  They are easy to remove to replace the glass if that should be necessary.