Replies

1. 
   nazard | Jul 29, 2007 04:09pm | #1

   Its time to get a band clamp....

   Have fun!

   -Nazard

1. 
   ctsjr | Jul 29, 2007 10:07pm | #3

   That's what it's looking like. Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"

2. 
   QCInspector | Jul 29, 2007 08:56pm | #2

   Hot glue some corner blocks to the outside of the frame. Then you only need 4 smaller clamps at the corners (C-clamps, F-clamps, etc.). They apply the force through the joint only and will be easier to control.

   
   

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   Edited 7/29/2007 1:57 pm by QCInspector

1. 
   ctsjr | Jul 29, 2007 10:08pm | #4

   I thought about that, but how do you get the hot glue off? Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"

1. 
   Sphere | Jul 29, 2007 11:05pm | #5

   Alcohol makes hot glue removal easier. As does a SHARP chisel. 

3. 
   JohnWW | Jul 30, 2007 02:23am | #6

   I'd buy a couple of corner clamps and glue up two half frames first and then glue the two halves together the next day.  This approach is a lot less stressful, avoids disasters, and usually results in a tighter job.  I've switched over to using epoxy glue for miter corners, it makes a very strong joint and doesn't require more than moderate pressure on the joint.

   I'd suggest that no matter what technique you use, if you haven't done it before, you should make a test frame with scrap stock.

   John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine

1. 
   ctsjr | Jul 30, 2007 02:36am | #7

   JohnSounds good to me. I've already made a test frame from 1 x 4 pine. Any brand corner clamp you recommend? Do I need to spline the joint? Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"

   Edited 7/29/2007 7:37 pm by ctsjr82

1. 
   JohnWW | Jul 30, 2007 02:53am | #8

   I've been using plain ordinary Craftsman clamps that I've had for twenty years.  The clamp isn't that important especially when using epoxy, it just has to hold the pieces in place until the glue sets.  If your frame faces are 4" wide you may have trouble finding a corner clamp that can open up that wide.

   A well made miter joint shouldn't need a spline and sawing the slot for a spline is tricky on a large frame.

   John W.

1. 
   joinerswork | Jul 30, 2007 07:13am | #9

    John,

   A miter on a 4" wide frame isn't likely to hold together longterm if it isn't splined. Seasonal swelling/ shrinking will eventually open up the inside or the outside of the joint across a simple glued miter that long, in my experience. Even narrow frames, I like to spline across the corner (kittycornered) after glueup, but wide ones like these I prefer to slot for the spline all the way across (or nearly so--sometimes I've left the cut blind on the outside corner) before assembly, and then slide the spline in, as the joint goes together.  It is a challenge to saw the slot on a large frame member.

   Ray

4. 
   oldusty | Jul 31, 2007 04:38am | #10

   ct ,      I'd agree with joinerswork ,a splined joint turns the miter into a T & G joint with much more glue surface and imo strength .

       As far as clamping 45° corners I use and would recomend what look like hog rings , we call them miter or corner spring clamps that come with a special spreading pliers tool to apply and remove them .If you detail the edges after glue up you can place the clamps so that the detail will remove the small dig  the clamp leaves .

                  good  luck     dusty