I recently bought this router — model 5625-20:
Mainly I bought it because you can adjust the bit height with a wrench when using it in a router table. Obviously, this makes it possible to avoid buying a router lift. It also has a soft start, variable speed, etc.
It worked extremely well when using conventional edge shaping bits; but the trouble started when I chucked in an architectural molding bit — one that is about 2 ” high, and used with the board running on edge against a fence (with feather boards to hold it tight).
Even though I was taking very light passes, the router would actually vibrate slightly, causing a ripple in the cut. I took it out to make sure everything was secure and tightened down, but still had the problem.
I took the same bit and chucked it into my PC 7518 and it cut just fine — so the bit is ok.
I am trying to decide if I should simply return the router for a refund or exchange it for a different machine of the same model. It think it is a really great router, if only it would not vibrate with these big bits.
Can anybody give me some feedback on this particular router, and perhaps some advice on what I should do with it?
Thanks.
“It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts.”
John Wooden 1910-
Replies
The plunge mechanism is not solid enough to be used for heavy bits. I had the same problem with the big Bosch plunger, even smaller panel raising bits can cause this problem. Plunge routers are not a substitute for a good lift and the good ol' 7518, or a shaper.
Mike
But this is not a plunge router -- and it was specifically designed for use in a table.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Ohh. well, check to see if the collet has a burr or dust in it, same with the bit shank. Heck, you have more experience with this stuff than me. Maybe the bit is out of ballance. Trying other large bits might reveal something too.
I do think that "specifically designed" for use in the table is a stretch. It is still a hand held router. I know that they did a lot to make it "table friendly"
Mike
As far as "designed for table use" is concerned, they do have the wrench that allows you to adjust bit height from the table top (but you still have to get under the table to release the clasp that holds the motor to the base. But they have redsigned the baffles for the air intake on the motor, so presumably dust isn't falling into the motor, which can be a problem with other routers used in a table (if you don't blow it out fairly frequently).It really is a nice router, except for the problem I mentioned. I didn't have time to call Milwaukee today, but I will in the next few days.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Did the router vibrate with that bit on just one occasion, or have you chucked it up more than once and duplicated the problem? Also, does it vibrate with any other bits if a similar height? I'd definitely let Milwaukee know about and see what they have to say.
Good questions.The router is new, so this is the first time I have used it with a bit of that style and size. And no, I have not tried it with other, similarly sized bits, nor did I take the offending bit out and rechuck it. I did make sure the base was tightly affixed to the router plate, and that the collet was well tightened down around the bit; and I did check to make sure the bit was positioned properly in the collet. There is a cam type tension lever that holds the motor to the base, and just today, I noticed an adjustment screw that could be used to tighten the tension. Problem is, if you tighten up this screw, then it is difficult to slip the motor from the base.We'll see what MIlwaukee has to say.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I also have the same milwaukee and have it to be stronger than the PC 7518. How fast are you running the milwaukee? It might help to slow down the cutter speed just a little. I often use that approach with a bit that vibrates slightly.
I have my Milwaukee is a custom built horizontal table with stock feeder that is used primarily for larger bits. Thus far it has performed flawlessly.
when I started to have that rippling problem, I was running it at one of the middle speeds. I then ran stock at all the various speeds; still didn't help.What do you think about tightening up that band that holds the motor to the base? I know it can't hurt to try, and I will.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Any movement could cause the problem. How solid is the router mount? Is it a plate or is the router mounted directly to the table? Sometimes new tools are defective. Is there any movement in the bearings? Have you tried different feed rates?
I have stockfeeders on my router tables and with a large bit like that, I slow down the feed and it usually elimates the ripple.
Trying to find what a problem is a lot like the old line about looking for a needle in a hay stack.
Nikkiwood,
I have the same router mounted in my version of Norm's table. I am amazed at how quietly and smoothly it runs; although, I have not used a bit of the size you describe. You mentioned using the same bit in your PC. Was it mounted in the same table using the same insert? I am wondering if the mounting or the table could be a factor?
Please let us know how this is resolved.
I like this router a lot too.......I used the same table, but I have both routers mounted on a Rousseau plate. So the plates were the same brand, but of course, different.I always seem to have trouble getting through to the tech people at Milwaukee, but when I finally do, they are always knowledgeable and helpful.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I have the same Milwaukee 3.5 HP router. I use it in a Bench Dog router lift and have removed the router base and lift screw. It also vibrates and is not as smooth as the Bosch 1617 that I previously had in the lift. I will be interested on what you find out. It seems like a router problem to me. I will have to reinstall the Bosch and compare cuts.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
Yours vibrates too? Has this been a problem with all the bits you have used, or just big ones (that triggered my problem)?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
It is with all bits. I noticed that it was not as smooth as the Bosch 1617 the first time I used it.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
Had and do have axial slop in 2 5625 units. Can't believe this is still a problem.
Agree with you, you can't do chatter free work with the bugger. Motor 3 pounds lighter than 7518. PC will run longer, cooler with no axial problems. A nice machine with a good speed changer but the 7518 is the tougher machine x far.
Routers
Pat,What exactly is the definition of an "axial" problem?Thanks.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Armature is loose end for end. If you pull on the cutter you can pull the armature.
See if it doesn't knock when you pull up on a cutter or the collet.
Edited 1/24/2006 8:33 am ET by Routerman
Thanks, Pat. I am taking it along with me today, and I will try what you suggest. Today's objective is to run off about 350 lf of shoe molding, and we'll see what happens.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Thanks for the advise Routerman. I checked my router and I did find some end play and knocking. Can I install a shim or washer to correct the problem? Also, I measured the runout of a 1/2" bit on the shaft and it was .001 to .003", is that acceptable?
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
Run out acceptable.
There should be no detectable end play, however.
If there's any, you will see waves on the floor of your cuttings. There are other causes for a wavy floor but you can bet on it (end play) if you detect it in the armature.
Shimming: I don't know.
Pat, What do you speculate is the casue of this problem -- bad engineering, or careless manufacturing?I am intuiting you detected this problem from the git go, and they still haven't fixed it.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Nikkiwood,
Have the same "big red beast" in my router table and have run huge bits without experiencing this issue. Been running this set up for a couple of years and never had a problem.
I seem to recall reading that some early production runs had an issue with the mounting base and tightening mechanism. This was apparently resolved by Milwaukee, as I havent heard or seen any mention of this problem in some time.
I would contact the manufacturer, as this may be related to the same issue.
Hope you can get this one worked out, and let us know!
Best,
STEELHEAD
I hope I can get it worked out too. I like it a lot, but I really can't keep it around if there is a problem with some bits that you would normally expect a router of this size to handle easily. I used it again today -- for a large run of shoe moldings -- and it did just fine. When you say you have used it with "big" bits, exactly what kind were you talking about. My problems came with an architectural molding bit that is rather skinny, but a little over 2" of cutting surface. Before I do call Milwaukee and try to hash this out, I do want to try the problem bit one more time. I think at least part of the problem, and maybe the whole problem would be resolved if I tightened up the tension release lever (that actually holds the motor to the base.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Nikkiwood,
I've run up to 3" panel raising (horizontal and vertical) bits, CMT's large lock miter, and custom crown molding bits without any issues. Recently did an entire kitchen cabinet replacement in maple: 18 raised panel doors without any hesitation or problems.
It seems strange that you didn't experience this problem when you tried again... Perhaps a loose tightening mechanism? Has the base workwed loose or developed any play in the mounting to the underside of your router table? When you tried again and did not experience this problem, were you using the same bit?
This was the first Milwaukee product that I had purchased in years. After reviewing all the options for a new router table a couple of years back I was swayed by the above table adjustment mechanism and the ability to bolt directly to the underside of the mounting plate. I haven't had any reason to contact their customer service, so I'm afraid I can't give you any advise there.
I can only share my experience, which has led me to reach for my PCs when I need to do hand-held work, and leave "Big Red" bolted to the table.
Hope you find the ghost in your system and get back to making sawdust soon!
STEELHEAD
Stuff gets away from you when you're building 1000's. Had the most serious runout of all routers in a 5615 and the 5625 is the only tool I have now that has end play; a pity too because this guy does work well upside down.
Why? Probably a casting error. No mfg. would risk letting a known defect out of the factory, at least not with running gear. Man, I think Milwaukee/Ryobi is as good as any mfg, I just don't know why the screwup. And yep, you're right, my sample had the problem at the onset.
As a tester/evaluator you can't believe how some of the new machines were received. I had one plunger motor fly right off the posts! One tool with .020" armature runout, another whose casting was so bent up it would teeter x itself in a light wind, amazing but true.
Strange Router Stories
for somebody like myself who has never really used a multitude of routers or even a single router a whole lot how would i/one know whether errors were produced by operator error or router error? are there certin signs to look for? i know probally a silly question but .....
Damn good question, but the answer is experience. You have no way of knowing!.
With 30 years of experience I'm still surprised! I think I have experienced this or that and find, often serendipitously, it's not the case at all. For example, a change of cutters, guides, feed rate, depth of cut or router can often produce a surprising and unexpected result.
When a tool or method of change availed itself, in spite of the time liability, I often chased that cloud to learn a little something new. That's the way I found out. As you can guess, I have not done that with this Fuji laptop and I'm scared as hell to do something new, for fear or blue or black screen meltdown. And if I did do something untoward I would not know if it was me or the Fuji; the same problem you have.
Routers and Surprises
The place where I bought it will happily take it back -- and either give me a refund or another router. I'm thinking I will exchange it for another, hoping that I will get a model from some other production run. I don't suppose you know if there is some easy way to check that?The power seems fine, and I like the features on the 5625 -- better than the PC 7518.Thanks again for your help.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
If they'd let me, I'd: Take a 1/2" dowel pin, chuck it in the collet and pull on it. If you can hear or feel it knock, don't touch it, PW
You mean a 1/2" STEEL dowel pin, right?I've got some laying around (abut 5-6") and I can't see any problem in chucking it in, as long as there are no burrs on the dowel. I'll try it first with the router in question; then I'll take the pin along with me when I exchange the router. I buy a lot of tools from these guys, so they are very accommodating.You are always full of good ideas ................thanks.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
LOng drill rod like yours is perfect for testing. Might be too noisy to hear the knock, so wait for silence when testing, PW
Can't help, don't know what the procedure is for this fix.
Router Surprises
Follow-up ------- since many of you asked.............
I started this thread last January, asking if anyone had had problems with the big Milwaukee router (5625).
The router worked fine with most bits, but when I tried to use it with a architectual molding bit (that was about 2" long), there was considerable chattering, and the cut was unuseable.
I was advised to take it around to my local service center, which I finally did.
I ending up dealing with the head tech guy, and he told me there had been no technical bulletins on problems with the router. In the absence of any better solution, he replaced the main spindle bearing, even though there was no discernible play in the old bearing.
So now I get to try this same bit with the new bearing; and if the problem persists, he says there's is nothing more he can do.
********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Your experience is different than mine, but until it's determined whether this bearing actually solved the issue its hard to pass judgement. Might have done the trick.If it continues to vibrate with any big bit then I would say it needs a new armature. But if its only with the one and not other big bits then it may just be an unhappy router/bit marriage.I would only add that on the phone regarding my 5615 that was buzzing I was told only new bearings and housing. On the work invoice it had an armature listed as well. You might check the invoice to see exactly what they replaced as it seems there may be some communication issue between the phone and the repair bench.Good luck.
No, I actually talked to the guy who did the repair. He said only the spindle bearing was replaced.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
PC 7518 vs Milwaukee 3.5 routers
I bought a planer from Woodmaster that had 2 of these Milwaukee routers on the outfeed table. The first one died after about 11 hours of use and the second one died after about 12 hours of use. Woodmaster replaced both routers and the third one failed this morning after only 6 hours of use. the outfeed rate is just barely crawling and the routers never slowed or bogged down. We are running #2 pine with new carbide bits. never had a single PC do this. We are replacing both routers with Porter Cable 7518 and we should be able to get back to work without any trouble. I will post a follow-up if they fail as well.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled