Replies

1. 
   ron61 | Jan 15, 2005 02:06am | #1

   I have cut some red oaks that have been lighting struck for fire wood - the logs were split - some were worst than others more splits.

   I don't know If the saw mill would want to cut it because the splits would bind up the saw

    

    

2. 
   Curtis | Jan 15, 2005 03:02am | #2

   I cut down a huge old walnut tree a few years ago. It was hit by lightning  a few times before it finally became dangerous to allow to remain standing.

   there were some rote around the strikes eara. but the rest of the wood was in fine shape.

   Ide suggest to have it milled,Its a gamble but old growth lumber is very hard to find.

   Good luck. and let us know

   C.A.G.
3. 
   dondownunder | Jan 15, 2005 06:44am | #3

   Tony

   Ring a couple of mobile mills to get an idea on costing. Personally I'd mill it into some larger sections & sticker it for a year or two. Milling is just the start, then you've got drying, kilning (perhaps) later, then what are you going to use it for?  To help in your decision making  KD Vic Ash select currently sells for about $12-1500 per cubic metre ex mill.

   Don

1. 
   tonyguy | Jan 17, 2005 03:58am | #5

   Thanks Don,

   I think I'll give this a go.  Thanks for the tip on doing it in larger sections - I can see a business case for a bandsaw upgrade in the making :-)

   I have a miller who'll do this on site for around $500 (AUD).   Kiln drying looks to be around $350 per cubic m.   If all goes well I should get around 2 cubic metres.

   Plans are to use this for some outdoor furniture,  a new workbench and maybe a kitchen benchtop.

   Thanks again for the advice.

   Tony

1. 
   JohnWW | Jan 17, 2005 10:06pm | #6

   Tony,

   After running the calculations, you would be paying the equivalent of about one U.S. dollar per board foot, which isn't a bad price for good stock.  This figure doesn't place any value on your time put into the job.

   Why have it kiln dried, especially since some of the applications you have in mind are for outdoor work.  Some species are better off kiln dried, to even out color, or to prevent sticker stain, or to kill an insect infestation.  If none of these reasons apply, and you aren't in a rush to get usable wood, why not save more than half of the expense, and a lot of labor, and just let the stock air dry?

   Drying wood in thicker sections can lead to problems with internal stresses and honeycombing, problems which won't show up until you resaw the wood.  The amount of risk will be determined by the wood species and how carefully it is dried, poorly done kiln work can badly damage some woods.  I wouldn't have it all cut thick if you don't have jobs planned that need thick wood.

   John W.

    

2. 
   dondownunder | Jan 17, 2005 11:51pm | #7

   Tony

   I should probably clarify my comment regarding larger* sections. As a cabinet maker any thing around 11/2 - 2" is considered larger. The width will be determined by the sawyer when breaking down the log. Vic ash (the marketing group which includes messmate, stringybark & mountain ash) is readily available in 'by inch' boards so I believe you'll get better value out of your log by recovering thicker (more expensive)stock, which you can trade or sell if you don't use them. 

   The kilning of these 3 timbers in Victoria is a science, not an art now as millions of cubic metres are dried here annually

   The use of ash is fine for bechtops, your planned workbench would also be a good use of the tree but I'd be reluctant to use it outside as it a class 4 timber (non durable) & will decay very quickly, particularly at any joints, unless you can keep the weather off it. 

   *(I know that Frenchy doesn't think a piece of timber is large until he needs to get his crane on the job:-)

   Don 

4. 
   KeithNewton | Jan 15, 2005 08:16am | #4

   Lightning typically goes down the outside of the tree, and turns the sap just under the bark to steam which usually blows a strip of bark off which may cause a little drying and damage to the wood just inside of where it hit, and may open it to insect infestation which is usually a greater problem than loosing a strip of bark.

   Be sure and paint the ends ASAP, and get it sawn.

5. 
   creekwood | Jan 18, 2005 05:16am | #8

   I know here in FL that pine trees that were hit by lightning were once used split up into fence posts. They will last for many years, and  "lightered  pine" has been used on  rustic furniture and in hunting lodges for accents. It is very hard, and will dull a sharp ax very quickly. I believe southern yellow pine will react differently than your tree. Much more sap. Let us know how it turns out.