Replies

1. 
   Rob_Sp | Mar 20, 2021 02:47pm | #1

   Milk paint is a very hard finish. It can be rubbed out to a nice luster with steel wool/sandpaper and lots of elbow grease. It should also be sealed with an oil or shellac top coat.
   True milk paint is only available in powdered form and must be mixed.
   The "milk paints" in liquid form-aren't.
   There are some articles on this site on using it if you search for them.
   This company has some videos and tutorials:
   https://www.realmilkpaint.com/

1. 
   Jefferyols | May 15, 2022 11:05pm | #6

   I wish I could assist. I used milk paint to achieve a nice relic finish on my Jaguar build, but I sealed it with Shellac in a french polish method. I wanted it to be thin, and I imagine tru-oil would be about the same. There should be no problems with compatibility (like when you try to use lacquer and enamel paint). You should be able to simply rub it on top of it.

2. 
   john_c2 | Mar 20, 2021 07:11pm | #2

   I've never used chalk paint. But milk paint must be mixed. Once mixed, it goes bad within a few days. There is at least one brand of "milk paint" premixed that is just latex -- the name is just marketing.

3. 
   stantheman | Mar 20, 2021 08:34pm | #3

   Yes, Old Fashioned Milk Paint Company is the real stuff.

1. 
   MashMallo | May 19, 2022 12:10am | #7

   General Finishes products are typically of high quality, thus the high price. It will also be easier to use and likely less prone to cracking and flaking in the long run. I believe Valspar or a similar company makes a chalk paint product that is similar in appearance but less expensive. If we're talking US dollars, I've seen lower prices on the powder stuff (online) if you want to look.

   If you want to achieve an authentic look read this guide, experiment with a clear or amber shellac as a top coat. The amber shellac adds warmth and an old-fashioned tint, similar to adding a sepia tone to a photograph, but it will fade.

4. 
   bburgboy | Mar 24, 2021 07:24pm | #4

   I just purchased some milk paint for the first time and found this article on Woodcraft Magazine. https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/create-a-milk-paint-masterpiece

5. 
   user-7627473 | Mar 24, 2021 09:18pm | #5

   My wife was a high-end decorative painter for many years in NY. The woman she worked for Gail Leddy always used Ronan Japan Color for furniture to receive an "antique style" paint treatment...especially a chalky finish. These are typically mixed to arrive at a suitable color. We have a number of pieces that are painted with it. It has really really high concentration of ground pigment- quite an amazing product-and nothing really like it. It is very hard and dry to the touch. You can do whatever you want over the top to make it less chalky...we usually use wax. https://www.ronanpaints.com/japan-colors

6. 
   stantheman | May 19, 2022 11:03am | #8

   I've only used (Old Fashioned) milk paint, as mentioned above. I like it a lot and had a couple of pieces (not top-coated) hanging outside in full hot sun and snow for a few years, so yeah, its tough. I will suggest that you use goggles, mask, and gloves when mixing it as the dry powder is mostly lye and will damage your sensitive parts if you inhale or get it on you. Here's an article I found comparing to chalk paint:
   https://decoratedlife.com/chalk-paint-milk-paint-difference/