Replies

1. 
   CStanford_ | Sep 19, 2001 02:39pm | #1

   *
   Sandpaper.

1. 
   Steve_Schoene | Oct 08, 2001 12:41am | #2

   *You can over coat--after the linseed oil has FULLY cured--but there is an additive, sold by the manufacturer, that you must add to the milk paint to help it stick over materials other than raw wood. No, the lack of coverage was not effected by any delay in overcoating with oil. The oil may have just revealed that you needed another coat.

1. 
   Rodger_Ederer | Oct 13, 2001 10:32pm | #3

   *Steve, You are correct. I called the people at J.E.Moser's. The advised that I treat the surface with 1/2 vinegar a 1/2 water and use extra bond on the next coat. I did so and got a good result. However, my first attempt was with federal blue and they allowed that other people have had trouble with there blue milk paint. So on the second attempt I used red which worked out just fine with two coats. One more comment for any one who is interested in milk paint. I followed Moser's suggestion and used Watco oil as a finish. I got a brighter and more shinny result, than with linseed oil. It the future I will probably use linseed oil. Thanks Rodger

1. 
   Rodger_Ederer | Oct 13, 2001 10:32pm | #4

   *Steve, You are correct. I called the people at J.E.Moser's. The advised that I treat tshe surface with 1/2 vinagar a 1/2 water and use extra bond on the next coat. I did so and got a good result. However, my first attempt was with federal blue and they allowed that other people have had trouble with there blue milk paint. So on tshee second attempt I used red which worked out just fine with two coats. One more comment for any one who is interested in milk paint. I followed Moser's suggestion and used Watco oil as a finish. I got a brighter and more shiney result, than with linsead oil. It the future I will probably use linsead oil. Thanks Rodger

1. 
   Gretchen_ | Oct 14, 2001 01:03pm | #5

   *Since Watco is basically an oil and varnish mix why not just wipe on a coat of 50/50 varnish. I have done that over milk paint with no extra bonder (if I understand your post)

2. 
   Ed_Hilton | Oct 31, 2001 06:09pm | #6

   *I am contemplating using milk paint for the first time. I also read Dunbar's article, and it seems simple. If you are using two different colors, do you need two coats of each? How far does the paint go? If I mix a quart, will it cover as well as a quart of latex?He talks about black over red over green...what other combination work well? I am going to build a modified linen press for a teenage boy, and I want something appropriate. Unfortunatley the client is of no help: me: what kind of finish do you want? paint, stain,...? client: whatever you think is best. me: well, do you want dark or light or...? client: that sounds nice. just make it pretty. At least they are sincere about their lack of direction. I know that they will be happy as long as it's a quality product. I'm thinking that black may be a bit dark, although at one time they had talked about a natural walnut color.

3. 
   Gretchen_ | Nov 01, 2001 01:24pm | #7

   *although at one time they had talked about a natural walnut color. Then just use one color--leave the wood natural or stained and paint over, sand off "wear" places and put on a top coat for protection. Top coat could have a color stain in it make the "wear" darker if you get my drift.