Hi Folks, Considering the Micro-Jig splitter system. I like the fact that it pushes the cutoff away from the splitter not just keeps the kerf open. Does anyone have any experience with it? Or should I just make my own? I tried the drill bit as a splitter but just can’t get it to work properly (FWW article).
Also made by the same company is the Grr-Ripper system. I’ve heard some good things but am not clear on how it’s used on a wide board being ripped down the center. Looks like the Gripper has to be placed against the fence. I know I’m missing something here and am prepared to feel kinda dumb when shown.
Thanks for any help.
Brian
Replies
I have one. It seems to work fine.
Frosty
"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Thanks, ordering. Brian
Can you tell me a bit more about the drill bit as a splitter. I must have missed that one. How does it work, and why didn't it work for you?
My guess is you sink a bit in the throat plate that is a bit narrower than the kerf, and line it up with the kerf. Then turn it over and snap the bit off, leaving the shaft in the hole. Is this is correct? Thanks.
Hi K1500- It was just my poor craftsmanship that left me with a drill bit splitter that was just a bit (hee hee) off. I may try it again but for now I'm going with the micro-jig splitter system.
Here is the articlehttp://http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/subscription/Workshop/WorkshopArticle.aspx?id=3472
Brian
One more thing is to use plenty of epoxy and if it will fit underneath add a small hardwood block to give the bit/splitter a little extra stability. The inserts aren't all that thick and the bit can get banged around.
Brian
I have them both and they are great! I bought two of the Grrp'rs (pardon the spelling). It makes feeding stock through the blade a breese and the fingers are nice and out of the way. You apply downward pressure on both sides of the blade and with the microjig splitter, it glides over that with no issues. The cost is not cheap, but my digits are worth it! I would not think of cutting with out them.
I noticed your question about the splitter and a drill bit. The way you make the splitter work is you get the template with good directions and you make your zero clearance template and drill three holes to the rear of where the blade will be(it will align perfectly). The curved inserts then snap into place and align behind the blade. You get several inserts and they are labeld with a varying number of +'s on the sides. Depending on the direction and number of plus's it will apply an offset pressure in the direction of that facing side. In other words if you put in the insert that has 3 +'s on the right side, it will be offset .003 (if memory serves right), of the blade towards your fence applying more pressure to the stock against the fence. If you turn the insert around, then you will have .003 offset to the left side of the blade. You would then have the waste side getting the .003 pressure on the right side of the blade (My fence is to the right of the blade). I use the insert with 2 +'s with the pressure towards the fence and it works great. It snaps in and out with ease, and my template for making more is in a drawer. The template even has a storage place for the bit so you won't loose it. They have a version for thin kerf and regular kerf. Be sure to get the right one!
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Edited 2/7/2008 10:36 am by bones
Thanks Bones! Like I told John...Oh Boy!!! Something coming in the mail!! Will order them today.
Brian
I have both and totally agree with bones. Get the video for the GRRipper. It has demos on the many ways to use it. Yes, it is very helpful on ripping wide boards.
What happens in the interim between when you can no longer reach, and have to pick it up and move it back?
For ripping long boards, I followed the suggestion on the DVD and use two GRRippers, one in each hand. As the first one passes the blade, the other continues to feed the stock, and the first one is placed in back of the one now feeding. By alternating positions, the stock is kept moving in a well-controlled manner. It is sort of like climbing a rope, only you are pushing instead of pulling. It is clearer on the DVD than in words.
Happy ripping.
Ah, so you need two. I get it. Thanks.
Thanks John, Oh boy! Something else cool coming in the mail!
Brian
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