Replies

1. 
   StanleyNiemiec | Apr 03, 2003 08:04am | #1

   I thought I would check Feier's Cabinetmaking and Millwork book just to be sure and what you say is basically verbatum of what appears in his section on shapers.

   I don't know if using a fixture with hold-down clamps that runs in the miter guage slot/groove is shaping with a form or a pattern but it is something I do regularly when I am machining the ends of boards for door frames (as for the joint that fits the stile into the rail).

   And on several occasions, I have established an auxillary fence away from the spindle such that I could run a board against it and have the cutter both machine the profile and uniformly size the piece at the same time.  I use feather boards (infeed and outfeed sides) to keep the workpiece tight against this auxillary fence and then just feed it through. 

   Were I to make T&G strip flooring and wanted to insure that all the pieces were of uniform width, I would first machine the groove against the standard fence and then when it came time to machine the tongue,  I would use a fence away from the spindle.  This technique would thus insure the uniformity of width necessitated in strip flooring.

1. 
   ClancysBro | Apr 04, 2003 01:16am | #2

   Absolutely Feirer Stan!

   Good reading and I have marked the pages of my book with the amounts of time to setup, shape, and apply certain custom workpieces. Always a mainstay like the FWM. Although I wouldn't suggest writing in those. Stickys mybe.

   Routers enhanced with dinosaur powers are a good way to view shapers. So many different types and models how does one choose the best machine for their needs. And also, are computers taking over where skill once was prevalent in woodworking..?Are overhead routers plunging us to our death?

   Here are a few good tips, working from the basics, I have experienced in using a shaper. (Thanks for the first tip btw Stan N. I think I may know you from somewhere. Did you or do you have a very nice fish tank in your lobby?)

   * Purchase the iron casted, dual adjustable and dust collector attachment with your machine. Often times you need that micro adjustment to absorb the slightly overcut edge to keep your work tight to the fence and straight as possible. The great protection it gives to deflect debris also.

   * Wax and prep your surface properly for the least amount of drag on your lumber

   * Start off very slowly with your cuts in setup you are in no hurry.

   * Look at the grain very carefully and try to cut it at the best points.

   Edited 4/3/2003 6:25:31 PM ET by protagora

1. 
   StanleyNiemiec | Apr 04, 2003 02:29am | #3

   No fish tank in the lobby  --  no lobby for a matter of fact.

   I'm one of those old dinosaurs that purchased my shaper (Powermatic) some 20+ years ago and lived with it for many years before I ever purchased a router.  My shaper runs 10 times more often than my router  --  I guess that I like the stability of it as well as appreciating the deeper bass noise.  That and the fact that all that mass means that I am moving wood rather than moving machine  --  which to me makes for greater accuracy and better edges.

   Maybe you connect me with OSU?

1. 
   ClancysBro | Apr 06, 2003 05:46am | #4

   No, mistook your handle I guess.  Good to see you around here . Not many shaper fans here it seems. Hang in there and I end out the thread with a couple last tips. 

   * Buy a power feed, not only does it protect your digits it holds your pieces tight to the fence.

   * You can use a power feed on radius work/ combo bearing tasks also.

   * When machining toughly placed end grain incorporate follow up blocks to protect from blow out.

   * Oversize and allow for final cutting because often times you will lose an inch or two on the ends.* When setting up your cutters make sure they are positively secure and then check them again.