Replies

1. 
   BruceS | Jul 04, 2006 12:12am | #1

   Sure it will work,  Just a pattern makers lathe on steroids.  You will have to fabricate some sort of tool rest,  small glitch there but I sure would figure that one out. What type of chucks do you have now ?  3 or 4 jaw scrolling ?    You may have to metal turn some adaptors  for WW lathe chucks but you've got the machine to do it.  I'de be tickled to death to have it.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

2. 
   JohnH | Jul 04, 2006 12:20am | #2

   I've used my metal turning lathe for wood projects. It works fine. Many wood turning fittings fit metal lathes, such as Sorby steb center.

   For making multiple copies from a pattern, it is superior because the fixed tool post holds the cutting tool firmly in place. You just need to rig up a place to hold the template and a finger to reach from the tool post to the template. I turned ten miniature cannons from ebony for my model of USS Constitution. It is also handy for turning face-grain knobs from exotic woods, something that is usually unavailable commercially.

3. 
   Steinmetz | Jul 04, 2006 12:22am | #3

   Metal lathes have chucks as well as face plates that will hold wood between centers All those are part 'and parcel'for Both metal and wood lathes. The only additional 'tooling' you'll need is driving head stock center and a tool rest. If you plan to turn wood using turning chisels,
   the tool rest is required. Actually the metal lathe's existing compound tool rest can turm cylindrical and tapered stock quite easilly and once set up, will automaticly self feed across the work

   A tool rest can be made using a 'Store bought' unit and adapted to your particular lathe....or you can fabricate it from pipe fittings angle iron and aluminum or wood blocks and carriage bolts.

   Inquire at dads shop if they have any extra tooling that will fit your machine. That stuff runs into big bucks if purchased new.

   Also, ask dad the headstock's morse taper size and the spindle's thread

   Ask for a faceplate and a few different lathe dogs that will fit the faceplate

   You've got a GREAT opportunity to start a great hobby and will enjoy making many things for years and years of fun.
   I'm retired now, but I've had three lathes that I used to create just about anything from wood and metal

   In the past, I posted similar advice to other's like you and some have followed my advice..

   When you get the machine in place in your shop, it is extremely important to level the lathe left and right and 'fore' and 'aft'

   I would'nt be surprised if your lathe has automatic forward and reverse 'longitudical feed as well as in and out automatic cross feed Also maybe quick change gears ???

   Turning,boring,reaming,drilling,threading,filing,polishing, knurling,tapping, are juct a few things you can do on a metal lathe.. I wish you much luck Steinmetz.

   
   

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   Edited 7/6/2006 3:30 am ET by Steinmetz

4. 
   seb | Jul 04, 2006 04:39am | #4

   I use a 40" metal lathe to turn pool cues...Works fine...
   Bud

5. 
   QCInspector | Jul 04, 2006 06:38am | #5

   Fortunately for you any adapters that you need to fit wood turning chucks to your soon to be new lathe can be made with the lathe itself.

6. 
   Stanley55 | Jul 04, 2006 06:58am | #6

   I own 4 lathes including an old Atlas metal lathe that I use for wood as well as metal.  Making perfect cylinders by turning a handle is great.  Try turning a super thin wall vessel and you will understand what can be done on this tool that is very difficult on a conventional wood lathe.

    

   Blair

7. 
   philip | Jul 04, 2006 10:10am | #7

   The short answer is "yes". Tell us if you have any specific uses in mind, as an engineers lathe is more suited for some applications than a dedicated wood lathe.
   Tell us what size and make and if it has power feed across as well as the usual along the bed.
   If one is to also keep turning metal now and again, it is important to clean regularly-fine wood dust plus oil can build up to cause grief.
   When you have got more details we will be able to see just useful it can be-things like speed range are pertinent.Philip Marcou

   
   

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   Edited 7/4/2006 3:12 am by philip

8. 
   wonko | Jul 04, 2006 05:00pm | #8

   Thanks for all the replies.  You've all been very helpful.

   I'm beginning to realize just how little I know about this subject, though I'm hoping to start learning soon.  I've wanted to try my hand at wood turning for a while now, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity.

   I'll be seeing the machine for the first time this Friday, so I should have more information (and probably more questions) then.

   Thanks again.

   Chris

1. 
   BruceS | Jul 04, 2006 05:08pm | #9

   This should be of great value to you,  Just about all new Bagpipes are now made on a metal lathe.   Exciting Ah.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   Patto | Jul 05, 2006 07:42am | #10

   BruceS

   Don't s'pose you have seen any plans for a set of small pipes?

   I have a wood lathe, but have been wanting to try my hand at a set of pipes for ages and already have a couple of sets of the real thing.

   Dave

1. 
   BruceS | Jul 05, 2006 04:36pm | #11

   Sorry,  No plans for small pipes.   What size were you looking for??  North Umbrian,  Parlor, Fireside, Ullian, Great Highland.  I was thinking of making a set but found that the African blackwood blanks are outrageously expensive, same lumber used to make good oboe's and English horns.  Many years ago I did find a WWW site that had a detaled set of plans but have long since lost the address.  One of our Wee pipers in the band,  who could break anything,  Had a set made out of a phenolic type material  and many of the pretty good chanters  that  are being used in band competitions are made out of  it because they can be matched up pretty well,  Kron (SP?) chanters.   I'am looking for Chanter reed plans,  At $15-$20 US  that could add up, When a band orders 20-30 at a crack.  I'll leave the drone reeds alone, they're way over the top with machining and sufistication.  Can you draw up plans from the pipes you have ??  Some of the new pipes I've seen have gotten pretty simple in design, No beading, no drone caps, no chanter bells, no ferrels.  The only critical part would be the drone bore sizing for tone.  The days of Silver and Ivory mounts are history.  My Stepbrother used to have a Set of 1850 ish Sinclairs/Silver&Ivory mounted but sold them for Drug money and He was a Grade I piper, Then comitted suicide.  Good LuckWork Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   Patto | Jul 06, 2006 03:42am | #13

   Bruce

   I used to be an enthusiastic piper, since then have reverted most of my effort playing trombone in a big band and getting te kids going with their music.

   I have great highland pipes, a set of Hardy's and a set probably made in Australia from rosewood. These are a little small to have a really full tone but the Hardy's are OK. I have also seen a set made from tasmania blackwood, but these were also a bit thin in sound.

   I would like a set of parlour pipes, probably of the sort with a single drone stock supprting three drones. Generally these seem to be driven by bellows rather than blowing - I might even get to sing :-)

   The advantage of this design seems to be that the chanter has a parallel bore rather than the conical bore in the larger pipes. it will also consume much less expensive wood in a first experiment.

   Dave.

9. 
   PADDYDAHAT | Jul 05, 2006 07:50pm | #12

   W, you are one very lucky fella, can't you sense all the drooling that's going on over this "problem" of yours.

   Seb, George Balabushka used an old Atlas to make his cues. They now sell for $6.000 to $50.000+ , I cry all the time when I think that I could have had one in the 50's for $150. All the best, Pat