What does everyone use to measure stock thickness/length, machine setup etc.? I have recently begun using a caliper to measure stock thickness and am more attuned to measurement accuracy in general wether it’s machine setup or measurement of wood stock. Just wondering what everyone else is using.
Mark
Replies
Hi! I've found Starett measuring devices useful. From my research, there is still room for improvement.
Mark,
I agree that Starret tools are tremendous - I use their 12-inch and 4-inch combination squares.
A bevel gauge is useful when trying to find an angle or when marking lines at a prescribed angle (as when laying out dovetails), and an angle finder helps to set a bevel gauge to a desired angle. I find an angle finder more useful than a protractor for this purpose, but an accurate protractor is very uselful at other times.
A centering rule and a hook rule are useful in laying out from a centerline and endpoint, respectively.
A collection of good old machinist's squares in various sizes (and angles) is invaluable when setting blades and fences square (and at angles) to tables.
I find a dial caliper calibrated in 64ths of an inch (versus hundreths and thousandths endemic to typical machinist's calipers) invaluable during thicknessing; I got mine through Highland Hardware.
I am very happy with a height measurement gauge made by AngleWright to set router bits, saw blades, etc. easily within 1/64-inch.
A set of feeler gauges are tremendously useful (not only for layout & measurement tasks, but for inserting glue in recalicatrant cracks from time to time -- followed by thorough cleaning).
Large plastic drafting squares are handy for precise adjustment of the miter gauge on the table saw to the saw blade.
A set of pinch rods are handy when checking to ensure the inside dimensions of a box (carcase, drawer, etc) are square during glue-up.
Winding sticks can be a Godsend while squaring rough stock.
A set of dividers are useful for laying out multiple iterations of a known dimension, and a compass equipped with a sharp scribe or pencil is essential when laying out circles - or segments thereof.
Don't forget an exquisitely sharp layout knife for marking hinge gains, dovetails, and the like. I prefer one with a flat back and a bevel on only the right edge, but that's largely a personal preference.
A magnifying glass (and flashlight) can be very useful at times - I like one that retracts into a case when not in use, so it won't be damaged.
I think my next investment of this ilk will be a dial indicator & magnetic base with which I can verify consistency of jointer knife set-up, arbor runout, etc.
I hope this is helpful, and if I think of others the next time I'm goin' through my layout and measuring tools, I'll let you know.
Paul
I use tapes or measuring rulers down to a 32nd. But just for general use and most of the time, down to an 8th with the rest of the increments in plain view for poor eyesight and poor memory. I don't have a particular brand, just whatever works at a 12' or 25' length, with the increments.
Mark,
I'm kinda where you are...beginning to invest in some good measuring devices. Woodcraft was sold out of the 6" starrets (rats) so I bought Ian Kirby's book on dovetailing...fantastic book. It's really more about preparing stock and how to measure and mark it poperly..."constructed in a rightful manner". I will buy measuring tools for joints...and a good straight edge and make winding sticks to flatten stock. Different measuring tools for the TS, etc.
One point that has not been mentioned yet. What ever meausring tape you start with..stick with that same tape through the whole project...it helps.
mark
Can't add much as Paul and others have it covered. Just thought I would add that Stanley has a great combination square with the yellow handle. In lieu of a expensive Starrett, you might consider this one. I did some homework and it is extremely accurate for a $12.00 combo square.
Will ditto Paul on the WW's micrometer from Highland Hardware in 64th of an inch. Also ditto BG to try to say with one instrument as they will vary. If you do end up having to use several, compare to see how much they vary in calibration. BTW, couldn't live without a hook rule, also available at HHardware.
Good Luck...
sarge..jt
I used to spend a lot of time measuring, checking, transferring dimensions, but it all changed when I started to teach high school woodworking. Yes we have rulers and we use them along with calipers and squares but the sliding bevel typifies my measurement practices now. The bevel does not give an angle readout - it just transfers an angle from one location to another. And that's what I'm emphasizing to my students - story boards/poles, dimension transfer. The more you translate a dimension to a specific value - say 1.5 inches, the more chances of making a mistake (hence the saying measure twice, cut once). I've started to think through if it is necessary to actually measure 1.5 inches or simple "transfer" that dimension to another piece of wood to cut. By using these techniques, I'm finding less mistakes n my shop and fewer mistakes in my school shop.
I use a Starrett 12" combination square, a 4" machinists square, a Lee Valley saddle square (for marking around a corner), a 12" hook rule, a 12" flat rule, and a tapered guage (also from Lee Valley), which is fabulous for setting up machines for smaller cuts. But like the teacher said, whenever I can take a measurement from a piece already cut, that's what I do as well. Oh, I use a dial caliper, in thousandths, for checking stock thickness. Esp. off the the planer. I know that if I get close to the thickness, then a single, full revolution of my planer is .059", and with that I can dial in the final pass pretty close without a lot of fuss.
Ditto on the 6" & 12" Starret combination squares, transfer instead of measure, drafting triangles and using the same tape throughout (and don't transfer an inside to an ouside measurement even with the same tape). I rarely use a protractor. Instead I use a little basic trig and geometry and convert the angle I want to a rise and run. Nobody has mentioned Starret trammel points, they're excellent for checking square, transfering dimensions and they double as a beam compass of unlimited length. At the start of a project I will use a bevel guage to set a common reference angle on my chop saw and cut a 2 x 2 x 8 piece of hardwood to the angle. From there on out I use the 'Master Block' to set-up whatever machine I'll be using. This is especially useful for compound angles. I also use a 1/64ths dial caliper for thicknessing, measuring diameters and for some depth measurements.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
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