I am going to make new cabinet doors for my sister-in-law. They will be painted and I am planning to make the stiles and rails out of maple. For the panels, I am going to use either MDF or HDF.
I would like to know what Knots members think about MDF v HDF. The price is only $1 more for HDF. I am told it does not leave a fuzzy surface after milling. Is that right? Also, I would like to know if either is easier or harder on the carbide bits than maple.
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Hey coolbreeze! HDF will paint better and take less time to finish. Dusty stuff, keep your dust collection device on high! Both materials dull router bits faster then solid wood imho.- Pricey
Thanks Pricey, I thought so, but needed it confirmed. I will use my dust collector AND a good dust mask.
I never used HDF, but have years of experience with MDF, so here's a few tips:
due to the porosity of the core, most MDF won't fill well on the edges enough for topcoat holdout, even with the best filling primers, so I've had great results with automotive polyester finishing glaze, the brushable kind that needs a hardener. No product sold in the wood industry sands as easily.
If this HDF is as good as it sounds, then I would spray (brush is possible) ML Campbell's Clawlock primer (post catylized, and only available through ML Campbell dealers) into the edges, which might create plenty of filling enough for topcoat. Bin shellac sealer (available at big box stores) is good second choice.
Best glue EVER, especially for MDF, is PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive (not that you'd glue your panels - FWIW). Cheaper and superior bond than gorillla glue.
All MDF is dusty - can't really see one being more so than the other, but hey?
"The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)
http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro http://www.johnblazydesigns.com
Thanks, DrDichroic
You gave me more than I asked for and have printed your post so that I can file it with my "how to's".
For edge filling MDF prior to painting, I've tried BIN, glue size, joint compound -- but I would like to try the stuff you mentioned: "automotive polyester finishing glaze, the brushable kind that needs a hardener."
I have a store nearby that specializes in automotive paints; would they sell this stuff? If I ask for it with your description, will they know what I'm talking about?
Better yet, since this store sells a lot of 3M stuff, do they make this sort of product (and what is the brand name)?
Re: PL premium polyurethane construction adhesive. I've seen the PL brand around, but I don't know if I have seen the poly version. Is it commonly available, or must you get it from some sort of specialty seller?
Thanks; You always come up with supplies that most of us in the mundane vein of woodworking have never even heard of.....
Its good to see your eyes being opened, young grasshopper. A furniture finisher's favorite place is the automotive finishing store. Better rubbing compounds, better wet sanding supplies etc. My favorite topcoat for fine furniture is automotive two part urethanes.
Anyway, the brushable glazes are found with the body fillers. Most now come in a big squeeze tube. One brand name I remember is "Silk" I think, probably referring to how it feels after sanding. For any project you'll paint - this stuff is addicting. Just mix it on a pc of glass or laminate or melamine, and use it quick before it sets up. Then just scrape it off your putty knife with a chisel after it gels - don't waste time cleaning with laquer thinner each time. - JB
"The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)
http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro http://www.johnblazydesigns.com
BTW, PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive (in caulk tubes - 10oz and quart) is found nowdays at most any Lowes or Home Depot. Throughout the eighties and ninety's, I had to order it through specialty stores, but not anymore - its that good. It blows away liquid nails. It welds to laminate surfaces like melamine (NOTHING else does this like PL). Sticks better to glass than glass adhesives. It can be bedded into wet PVC cement to bond PVC, ABS, Acrylic or Polycarbonate to wood, metal or glass with weld-like adhesion. Expands to fill gaps and is about 25% the cost of gorilla glue.
Its in all my bent laminations on my mahogony boat - shoot, its 50% of all my glueups besides marine epoxy. Its good on the grill with salmon steaks. (sorry, got away from me there).
- JB
"The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)
http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro http://www.johnblazydesigns.com
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