Replies

1. 
   gdblake | Oct 26, 2009 07:33am | #1

   James:

   If the mattresses sleep comfortably without the holes then skip then.  If the mattresses are hard as a rock some well placed holes can help.  I'd drill 3/4" holes in a line running 45 degrees spaced and inch apart in what is called a honeycomb pattern.  Your other option is to forget using a plywood base for the mattress and order a set of bunk bed mattress springs from J.C. Penny's or most any mattress store, this is what I did years ago when I built a set of bunkbeds for my two sons.  The beds have lasted 20 years without needed the mattress springs replaced.

   gdblake

1. 
   James R. | Oct 26, 2009 07:52am | #2

   gdblake:Thanks for the info. I like the idea of the box spring however I'm not certain I have enough height clearance for both a box spring and a mattress. I'll have to check into the sizes.Thanks, Jim

1. 
   gdblake | Oct 26, 2009 07:13pm | #4

   James:

   Attached is a picture of what I was trying to describe.  Not a box springs.  It is a metal frame with springs around the perimeter with a heavy frabric pad to support the mattress.  If it were all metal it would be called a link spring.  You will have to go to a bed store to find these, they don't show them on the internet because they want to sell you the bunk beds, not the mattress support frames.  You may also be able to find these at a futon store, not sure.  Another option is to build a slat frame just like a futon frame.

   gdblake

   
1. 
   James R. | Oct 26, 2009 07:17pm | #6

   gdblake:Thanks for the picture, that is a major help. I like that idea better than the plywood.Jim

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 26, 2009 08:00am | #3

   You referred to them as "ventilation holes" which might be a good idea, depending on how dry the air is in the bedroom.  My stepdaughter has had serious problems with mildew in her son's bedroom, in nice hidden places such as the underneath of the box springs, especially along the edge that sits in the metal bed frame.  We live in the Seattle area, and in the winter, rooms can have high humidity, especially if they have an outside wall and the thermostate is kept pretty low to save energy.

   That being said, however, I'm not sure drilling holes in plywood would really help.  What, specifically, made you think about ventilation holes??

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
1. 
   James R. | Oct 26, 2009 07:13pm | #5

   I have heard of others doing it however I have no idea where they lived or what their reasoning was. I just thought I'd ask someone more knowledgeable since this is the first bed I've made. If it's not a necessity I'll forego the holes.Thanks, Jim

3. 
   [email protected] | Oct 27, 2009 04:59am | #7

   Where will the beds be used? 

   In Nevada, and other dry western states, there isn't an issue with moisture trapped under the mattress.  When we lived in Portland, Oregon, we had issues with mildew under the mattresses.

1. 
   James R. | Oct 28, 2009 05:42am | #9

   I'm probably pretty safe, because everyone knows "it never rains in southern California."Thanks, Jim

4. 
   PeterDurand | Oct 27, 2009 06:38am | #8

   The outfit that makes the mattress would be your best source regarding ventilation information. My $0.02

   Cheers,

   Peter

    
   Better life through Zoodles and poutine...

   Edited 10/26/2009 11:39 pm by PeterDurand

   Edited 10/26/2009 11:39 pm by PeterDurand

   
   

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   Edited 10/26/2009 11:39 pm by PeterDurand

5. 
   Tinkerer3 | Oct 28, 2009 06:34am | #10

   I would suggest you try it without holes.  It would seem you could always add them if needed later.  My daughter had some bunk beds for her kids that had some lattice work.  I put in solid panels a couple three years ago and I think they have been very satisfactory.  I can't imagine the holes doing much good.  If it is very damp, it might be a good idea to dehumidify or the clothes and furnishings may mildew also.

   
   

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   Edited 10/27/2009 11:35 pm ET by Tinkerer3