I bought a set of matching router bits to be able to put solid wood on the edge of veneer ply. I am have a tough time setting up anyone know a short cut or a good sound way to to this.
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Replies
Do like the commercial shops... just butt and glue the flat edge of the ply and wood banding. Only the hobby woodworkers buy those bits. Totally unnecessary expense and time waster. It isn't any stronger either. Spent 35 years in custom and factory settings...no one uses those bits in pro shops. Not what you wan to hear but it's the truth...
Way to many gimmics that you don't need being pushed on the hobby woodworkers...
Edited 2/12/2009 12:31 pm ET by RickL
I am a small one man operation and do everything from drawings and designs to the finished product and deliver. I have been doing furniture making for years and do mostly buffets and custom cabinets. There isn't a lot of need for banding as faceframing is usually my choice. I do agree that a lot of crap gimmicks are aimed at the hobbiest but I thought I would give it a try and I did and I had a hell of a time setting them up. I could have banded and built the whole damn unit by the time the dust cleared.
Thanks again for your input it was appreciated.
Actually, I'm a carpenter and a cabinetmaker here in Japan. Being Canadian, I import a lot of tools/bits, etc. from North America. I had seen plywood edging bits advertised in Fine Homebuilding, and was going to give them a try....I don't think I will anymore...
Glad I saw this thread though..... I have to do a ton of shelf units next week and I'll do it with old fashioned banding, no tricks...
SS
I m glad you took heed and do it as I always have done the old fashioned way. Just thought this would be quicker. NOT
Thanks for your reply
Bear,
I have to agree with Rick here. You don't need them at all. My shop does miles of solid edging on ply. We use biscuits because it makes things faster (you can remove the clamps in less time) but a glued butt joint is as strong as you will ever need. Sorry to tell you this after you bought the fancy router bits, but hey...
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1
I never used them before as I am not a hobbiest I have a small furniture shop and bought them just for kicks as I thought the gluing area was greater. In furniture making I don't do alot of banding and I definitly don't use tape for any reason. Thanks again and I agree that the hobbiest does buy a lot of uneccessary tools when the old fashion learned ways work with the tools that you have.
Hello
Let me start by saying I'm not all that sure what you are asking, but, if I understand you correctly. this is what I do.
I make a test piece of for trial and error, once I get the settings that I want, I then make a final cut in a piece of Poly... (plastic)
then latter, All I have to do is match the router bit and the plastic profile for a perfect quick match. .
thanks for the great tip I am going to try it.
Another vote to ignore those fancy router bits. I just glue the banding to the ply - sometimes with biscuits, but more often without them.
The biggest hassle with banding plywood is getting the banding flush with the ply without sanding or scraping thru the paper-thin veneer of the ply. Adding to the fun is the fact that the veneer isn't always a uniform thickness.
When I'm gluing on the banding, I make the alignment by feel. Fingertips are amazingly sensitive and I can usually get the banding 0.001" - 0.002" proud of the ply as I clamp it up. After it's dry, some careful scraper work and/or sanding gets everything flush.
One problem I haven't solved yet is the "bleed thru" I sometimes get after sanding/scraping. I didn't go thru the veneer, but thinned it down enough to give me some discoloration when the stain/finish is applied. This most often happens when I'm using an "economy" grade of ply. The better grades of ply usually have thicker veneers.
Thanks for the input
Bigbear,
Dave45's recommendation is the method I use. When you are aligning the banding by fingertip feel, it helps to use a few strips of masking tape across the banding. It does a great job of holding the banding in place while you tighten up the clamps. In fact you can often skip the clamps and use only masking tape. I have a small piece sitting on the bench right now with nothing but tape on it. I am sure the banding will hold up for a few generations.
Good Luck, GeorgeYou don't stop laughing because you grow old. You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard<!----><!----><!---->
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Thanks and I have gone back to that method which I have used for over 30 years.
Thanks to you and everyone for responding
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