OK.. I realize this may be a stupid question but that never stopped me before when asking something.
I use a two pin (not a knife) mortise gauge. Maybe I should just try to find a mortise gauge with two knives?
My question is for all you hand tool experts out in Knots land.
What is the best way to grind the pins for percision cutting? I use mostly very hard woods with wild grain.. I pick this type of wood on purpose but it is hard to keep a straight line on some of the grain I pick out.
This is a serious question.
I really do not have a problem doing/using what I do now, EXCEPT, my brain tells me I can do better at marking my ‘sticks’….
For hand sawing/cutting I can live with myself.. I know up-front, I will make a mistake or (two/more?)
I have a Leigh FMT Pro (original?) that I use if I have many joints to make. If only a few joints, I usually use my old Jet benchtop mortiser and my tablesaw.
Anyway, a ‘bit’ off on the center marking, and my old eyes, and using my FMT for many joints can get out of hand for vertical parts. Horizontal parts are not a problem. I can reference the same edge for each ‘stick’. However, vertical parts require me to flip the part, end-for-end, and I am now referencing a new edge from center. Get my drift? Or is it just my old brain that has the problem?
I surface all of my parts ‘alik’e to the same size.. Some mating parts may not be the same size so they may not be centered for the tenon or the mortise. Get my drift?
I guess all that I am saying is a ‘true’ centerline will make or break a project for something square during the final glue-up…
I HATE messing with all the parts during any glue-up… A bit off over 8 feet makes a big difference!
Replies
FMT layout lines
I use either a 6" or 12" Incra Rule to mark the centerlines of both mortises and tenons for the FMT and have no problem fitting tenons on 5' tandem rails of different width into parallel mortises in the legs of end members. The Incra Rule with a 0.5mm (.020") line width is a bit wider than a scribed mark but easier to see and there is no error in setting the "knife" or "pin". I do use the same edge of each rail as the reference edge to mark the center. The Incra is referenced in 1/64" increments. The biggest problem I have with my 'old eyes' is finding a place between the floor joists in my basement shop to fit my head and get my bifocals in focus to locate the centerline in the sights of the FMT when cutting tenons on long rails.
Regis
Will,
I file the points of my marking guages side-to side, so that they are sort of like knife blades, rather than ground all round to a point. It also makes them less apt to follow the grain, if you can lean them gradually into the cut- start with a light pressure on the point, then with repeated passes, gradually increase the pressure as the lines are established.
Ray
The important questions
Ray, this fragment of an electronic message somehow got crossed up and addressed to me out there in cyberspace. I think it is for you....
"Ray, do you use O1 steel for your marking pins or A2? If it is A2, has it been cryogenically treated? In not, how can you be sure that it will hold an edge long enough between filings? Speaking of which, do you follow up on filing with a honing and a stropping on leather or a a harder substrate loaded with an abrasive polish? What grit do you go to, and of course, we need to know, waterstones or oilstones? With either, how can you be sure that the reference surface is either truly flat or truly dished? And do you believe that the purpose of a good stropping is to break the wire edge and expose a fresh cutting surface or to further sharpen the actual edge without rounding it over? Furthermore, have you modified your marking gage in any abnormal way which will damage its historical value and historical relevance to any hordes of future generations of hand tool archeologists that may descend upon your hand tool collection for the purposes of historical research long after you are dead and gone? Also, have you considered life-cycle costs? What if you become irritated, tired of or disappointed in your marking gage and wish to sell it? Will it bring close to full retail value on ebay? These are questions that we need an answer to, and be aware that if another WELL KNOWN PROFESSIONAL WOODWORKER says something different, it will probably lock us up and throw us into an unrecoverable flat spin until we auger in. And speaking of augurs, O1 or A2?....
/S/ Der-Mel-Taxe"
Just thought I would pass that on.
For Will:
I use a Marples shamrock marking gage. I have modified it with a new gnurled nut that holds down the moveable pin better, and I don't give a rat's patootie about its historical value. I sharpen the pins so that: a) they are even in height when the moveable part is locked down, and b) they are sharp enough so that it really pisses you off when you accidentally stick them into your hand. I always go slow and make multiple passes. If I rush, I mess up. Just a voice from the peanut gallery. Good luck. EH
If I rush, I mess up. Just a voice from the peanut gallery.
I do seem to rush a bit.. Often....
Marking Gauge?
Mine looks like the one in the picture below. "knife" is ground with a "flat spot" on the slider side of the knife, The outside edge gets the grinding, to make a point. Not sure of who made mine, name plate ( IF it had one) is long gone:
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