I’ve got to replace a countertop that’s going to also be an eating area… I was considering using rock maple laminated together in 1 inch strips with a 2inch thickness because of it’s grain tightness.
Because this area will be in direct contact with food and liquid what should I consider? Is a Tung/Poly/MinSpts mix an option, or will this be toxic if cut upon when preparing food?
This will probably not get to much maintaining after it’s finished, understanding that an occasional rub with mineral oil would be a viable option.
Any suggestions?
Replies
I'd suggest strait mineral oil, like this one:
A co-worker treated a butcher block countertop with mineral oil when he built his house. A few years ago, we spent weeks trying solvents, soaps, absorbent, heat guns, suction, and other things to get the oil out of the block.
He used the top as a general purpose counter, not a cutting board. Papers would turn translucent with oil, leather would darken, metal would get slippery. 21 years after the oil was applied!
We never got the oil out of the block and he's going to just replace it.
I use mineral oil for cutting boards that are going to be used to cut things. Other things, I don't. Before finishing a counter with mineral oil, think long and hard about what it's likely to be used for. If the answer isn't "no-one would use this for anything but cutting", then use the oil.
That's very VERY helpful! Thanks for saving that hassle from me and my client!
Regarding this cutting block, only if 21 years ago your friend heavily soaked it in oil, and ONLY if if it was endgrain, could there be a problem.
Endgrain will absorb a great deal and constantly wick upwards.
We use ours for chopping, eating, doing homework, reading the paper, paying bills, doing crafts...and yes, when the oil is first applied, or after a reapplication, the oil will soak into things. We knew that from day one; we have place mats for that purpose.
I can't imagine trying to get the oil out of the board; it's soaked in there, and it's going to stay. But that's what we wanted, and that's what we got. And we love it.
Tung oil, BLO, Danish oil, and other oil/varnish mixes are not toxic after curing, provided that the driers in the mix, if any, are not toxic. An oil/varnish/mineral spirits mix will be fine and provide far more protection than mineral oil. I'm doing a maple cutting board right now, and it will be getting an oil/varnish treatment.
You might want to start with a mix with 50% thinner to get more penetration, otherwise normal use will scratch and cut through the finish sooner. I suggest 1-2 coats with 50% thinner (25% tung oil, 25% varnish), followed by 2-6+ coats of ms/o/v in equal proportions, applying one coat a day.
For more information, see "Finishing: methods of work" edited by Jim Richie and published by Taunton (your local library might have a copy). It has a section on non-toxic finishes gleaned from several years of FWW Q&A.
Cheers
Paul
If you use it as a cutting surface, avoid any film finish like poly, etc. which can chip and become foodborne.
Safest bet is to use mineral oil.
I have used a product called Great Stuff--
It's a gel-poly that is made especially for butcherblock tops. It's super easy to use, as you just wipe it on, and wipe it dry. If in the future the top gets damaged, you can wipe on more, and it will be good as new.
I'm in Mn, and I get it locally at Youngblood lumber, but I'm sure you could track it down.
Another option is Belen's Salad bowl finish. This is more varnishy, and 3 coats get a nice sheen to whatever you put it on. I have used it for table tops, and for food-safe turned bowls. You can find this stuff anywhere. One note, it will go bad real fast in the can if you don't use bloxygen before closing the can.
Good luck,
Peter
jpswoodworking.com
There's Kerf's Wood Cream, which a lot of places sell. It is made from mineral oil and waxes, all food-grade.
Janet
Reading the replies, it sounds like there are lots of choices.
If you are going to use it as just an eating surface, use anything - there really are lots of choices
If you are going to use it as a food prep surface, then you will quickly destroy any film surface, and contaminate any absorbed (oil) surface. In that case you should focus on ease of maintenance, not on fancy finish.
In our kitchen, with a maple work surface, we just use vegetable oil, since it is cleaned daily (or many times per day) and refreshed every month or two (just wipe more on with a paper towel when it looks dull). Some people argue that vegetable oil can go rancid, so I have stopped using it on wood salad bowls (that are used less often), but still use it on the counter. Mineral oil from the drug store or walnut oil from the grocery store are cheap and do not go rancid.
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Charlie Plesums Austin, Texas
http://www.plesums.com/wood
Let me suggest you check into the pricing of a pre-made laminated board table. You will probably find that you can purchase one for less than you can buy the wood. Plus, the companies that make them, have the clamping systems to get the joints properly glued and they have large sanders to flatten the panel.
In the shop I was involved with, we purchased all our laminated board panels.
Great advice! Man, you've been a lot of help to me lately.
I've just checked around on-line a bit and found a top at woodcraft for about 300. The only thing is that It's got an acrylic finish. I have to use a non-toxic finish, since food will be prepared on the surface involving chopping, which could chip up the finish and mix it into the food.
I had a bit more difficulty finding any that were unfinished. Know of any good suppliers?
Grizzly--the woodworking equiment guys--sells some as I recall.
As to finish, all finishes used indoors are required to be non-toxic when cured. I'm sure the pre-finished panel you found will be non-toxic. As your source. Many are finished these days with a two part polyester finish. It's almost bullet proof. It would not stand up to cutting and chopping but it it excellent as a countertop finish. It's more heat resistant than poly finishes.Howie.........
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